Plastic Classic Forum

pmnfernando

started going thru the rudder also. took me an hour to split it in 2 halves. was expecting to be in way worse condition that it is, but glad im replacing the whole thing WhatsApp Image 2022-02-26 at 19.01.11 (2).jpeg WhatsApp Image 2022-02-26 at 19.02.03.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2022-02-26 at 19.01.11.jp...

pmnfernando

moved the jackstands today for the first time, so much happened since Novemberf!!
gave a 40 grit grind on the spots and proceeded to fairing

pmnfernando

decided to patch up some openings i had on bulkheads/partitions with G10

and while that was curing, i thought the jammers should go, so off they went.
need to fill those holes for the coming wet season

pmnfernando

got around to cut that 30 mm thick G10 to make the backing plates for the chainplates and epoxy them in today.
will be laminating a few layers of biaxial on top (3-4 layers should be enough i think)

pmnfernando

exhaust and bilge pumps thru hull glassed into transom.

pmnfernando

stern tube.......post?! decided to use a normal pvc pipe to create an oversized channel for the stern tube. then poured thickened epoxy to lock it in. little did i know that 2 leaks would develop causing me to lose 2/3 of that epoxy, but its all good now (final photo to come) stern tube post.jpeg ep...

pmnfernando

new cockpit drains glassed in. after much thought and mental notes i still managed to glass the portside cockpit drain the wrong way! the port side drain is a T because the galley drain will connect therein the future. the stb side one is a straight one portside cockpit drain.jpeg stb side drain.jpeg

pmnfernando

Hi Pioner thanks for your post! i agree with you, those 3 struts should be supported as well. in my case the portside one was completely rotten due to water intrusion. the center and stb werent bad, but i cut them as well. im thinking of getting 3 struts running longitudinally, 6mm thick stainless, ...

pmnfernando

stainless steel A frame which basically turns the boat from a deck stepped to a keel stepped mast one
im almost certainly not going to reinstall this as i am working in a substitute version which will be lighter and less intrusive

pmnfernando

because the mixing ratio is 1:1 :5-25% (primer:converter: reducer) i was able to apply 2 coats at 2.5 litres. whereas with the protective primer i was able to stretch it to one full coat, but still missing the jack stands areas. it was that much thicker. waited 3 hours between coats as recommended b...

pmnfernando

finally got everything out

pmnfernando

work in progress there still some material that has to come out but im almost there my plan is to get a normal household PVC pipe that is slightly larger than the stern tube, insert it into that cavity and then completely fill everything with slightly thickened epoxy and a layer of cloth in top to s...

pmnfernando

about 6 hours worth of sanding and almost all of portside is machine sanded to 80 grit.
looks and feel good to the touch

pmnfernando

thanks for the tips Atomvoyager. to be honest i think i went i bit crazy with the whole fairing thing.... the fibreglass was indeed somewhat porous some of it the primer was able to cover and some dont. i will follow your advice and start slow with 80 grit, on a orbital to remove the excess first. i...

pmnfernando

used the multitool to cut the headliner in order to access the rest of the wooden bracing, which was removed after.

pmnfernando

....whilst the fairing cures.....

decided to glass over the entire main bulkhead.
was a good boy and actually used the orbital sander as opposed to the belt one.

before

after

pmnfernando

fairing compound applied need to wait at least 36 hours, but maybe its going to be longer since the temperatures are really down this past few days in Macau. Had no choice but to apply the compound below the minimum recommended temperatures of 15C (59F), but thats life. The manufacturer ( Alexseal) ...

pmnfernando

after i cut those stringers i wanted to start sanding the area in between them because it had a strange texture that ive noticed right from when i bought the boat. little did i know what was i going to discover.... WhatsApp Image 2022-01-29 at 23.06.50 (1).jpeg turns out, that whole area was stuffed...

pmnfernando

what you see here are a couple of plywood stringers that help stiffen the hull. these are original and the plywood is moist and delaminating specially at the top. WhatsApp Image 2022-01-29 at 23.06.53 (1).jpeg i cut them in half, height wise, to check is they were sound. and turns out they are not s...

pmnfernando

a bit more sanding on those partial bulkheads to prep the surfaces for more cloth reinforcement

before

after

pmnfernando

a friend went by the marina today with just the right tool for this job. we got the stern tube out in less than 15 minutes. i was dreading this job, as it took me 3 hours to move it a measly 20 mm a few weeks ago. since its out i will replace the cutlass bearing WhatsApp Image 2022-01-29 at 23.06.51...

pmnfernando

primed!! one coat of Alexseal protective primer 161 managed to do the whole hull with one gallon of it mixing ratio is 6 to 1 and they advise 10% reducing but for all people considering using this primer, thin it to 30%, this is some thick stuff. really really nasty stuff to breathe as well. no mask...

pmnfernando

fwd detail

we can see both the fwd face and a side profile showing the bulkhead in red
and the ss plate and wedges. (in green and yellow to distinguish between the side and central one)

note that the top ss plate will extend aft

pmnfernando

i sketch ths up in autocad
hope its clear
the first picture refers to the aft face
in green hatch it is the ss plate
in yellow hatch is the existing frame (which will have to be extended)

the aft ss plate will be bolted to the fwd ss plate

pmnfernando

As i said before i dont have final solution when it comes to the deck reinforcement. I am leaning towards a option where i replace the corner pieces with a flat sheet of metal, which follows the underside contour of the deck on the main bulkhead with extra supports welded at 90º to replace the woode...

pmnfernando

i ended up removing all the metal pieces and cutting up the original fibreglass headliner on the v berth to access and remove those wooden braces

pmnfernando

back to the aft face we can see those 3 metal tangs which are screwed onto those laminated braces (the portside one being rotten). it was on these metal tangs that the bolts threaded thru the frame would sit and exerting upward pressure to counter the downward pull of the mast i thought up until tod...

pmnfernando

ths situation on the fwd face:
the top wood piece was hiding the metal piece

pmnfernando

the removal of the frame further exposed the aft corner piece
,

previously installed and also bent

pmnfernando

frame out is it possible to observe that the top section is bent, so its need correcting it will also be polished to mirror like finish as opposed as being painted i am stiil thinking about the final solution when it comes to altering the its design. i definitely want to keep the frame as it is, in ...

pmnfernando

pmnfernando

more holes to fill.

pmnfernando

look at the layer of dust!! im hosing the inside once all the tabing is done

pmnfernando

after

pmnfernando

decided to switch gears from all that fairing today not that it was a much nicer job as it involved removing paint from all hull-bulkheads tabing. but it must be done since i want to reinforce all of it on the boat. used a belt sander which makes for an quick job, but makes an absolute mess. it does...

pmnfernando

and this is what happens when you dont babysit things long enough

pmnfernando

pmnfernando

apparently im the kinda of person who, once the can of 407 is cracked open, has to use all of it!

pmnfernando

some fairing

pmnfernando

insertion of G10 (composed of 3 piecesx 6mm thick) into the sheerclamp to replace a rotten section. it was then glassed over with one layer of biaxial. in this specific location there will be a babystay chainplate applied outside. i will add another piece of G10 to increase the thickness and applyin...

pmnfernando

starboard side deck drain.
used pvc pipe and 45 degrees elbows to build it, then slapped some thickened epoxy and cloth around it. guess itsd there to stay.
did the same on portside

pmnfernando

after tape removal.

pmnfernando

building the taper around the stanchions base so that water doesnt poll and flows aft to the drains. used cheap duck tape to build the dam. then poured slitghtly thickened epoxy into. it is a quick, easy and cheap method but the weight of the thickened epoxy (and even plain epoxy) makes it "bel...

pmnfernando

aft end of the bilge after also check the marelon ball valves. the one on the left its a 2 inch, on the right its 1 1/2 inch. these things are GIGANTIC. didnt even occured me to see the the overall dimensions upon ordering as i was only focused on the diameter. the 2 inch one is so ridiculously big ...

pmnfernando

aft end of the bilge before

pmnfernando

after

pmnfernando

fwd end of the bilge, before closing with G10 board

pmnfernando

Got the round pieces epoxied and lightly glassed in.
was able to get them pretty flushed.
Next week will do the elliptical ones on the outside

pmnfernando

got this done a couple fo weeks ago
stanchions and pulpit/pushpit bases epoxied into the toerail

pmnfernando

these pieces keep the transducers flat and parallell to the bottom the circular ones are placed inside the hull and the eliptical ones, outside. They definitely arent perfect and still need to be trimmed to a certain deadrise but it will work and will never rot as they are made of 30mm G10 WhatsApp ...

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