Plastic Classic Forum

pmnfernando

Hi

Are you glassing over that low bulwark?

pmnfernando

also wasnt expecting this big void im thinking to cover the inside of the nose piece with packing tape, thicken some epoxy and set the nose piece in order to fill all that and obtain a better surface contact between the piece and boat. plenrty of squeeze out to deal with though. WhatsApp Image 2021-...

pmnfernando

nose piece out

was expecting a bigger fight so cant really complain
the piece is chromed bronze but it has been painted 3 times already
im having it chromed again to go with the stainless guardrail i will install at a later stage

pmnfernando

keel up right got it done this morning. some nasty dings from trying a controlled roll over (which didnt went so well..) but nothing that some sanding and fairing wont cure. the red pain is antifoul. decided to paint some AF while i had good access (will touch up right before splash) the green stuff...

pmnfernando

this is actually 2 boards butt joint together to make final lenght of 2.4 meters

pmnfernando

bilge floor, before and after did a couple of straight epoxy pours to level most of the surfaces, then applied thickened epoxy beneath the 6mm thick G10 sheet., finally one layer of biaxial cloth was laminated on top. need to knock some peelply bubbles, fair some rough spots and on to paint.! will d...

pmnfernando

i was able to dril them with HSS drill bit. had i kept quiet those bolts would ve been out by now..... the main issue is to drill it as close to vertical as possible, i bought a portable drill press/guide to help out in the beggining. not really sure if its going to deliver. i am trying to shy way f...

pmnfernando

bolts out!! at least the 6 main ones. 1 inch thick. the only 2 that i am unable to take out are the 2 that i try do drill out, the fwd one (19 mm) and the aft one (12 mm) i think i will have to drill them out. not particularly fussy about the aft one, but defo want to replace the fwd bolt WhatsApp I...

pmnfernando

no photo today as i am still head scratching...... ive grinded the bottom of the keel, no bolts are showing, they must be all tapped into the iron.... .....meaning.....ive (literally) screwed myself big time but cutting them flush. im having a friend weld a rod so that we try and unscrew them tomorr...

pmnfernando

the keel bolts look new.
if it wasnt for the condition of the nuts, washers and end top portion of the bolts, this whole step would have been have been avoided.

pmnfernando

after griding
the keel looks amazing, virtually no rust

pmnfernando

keel before griding

pmnfernando

right after the last bolt was cut and the sealant broke.
cut them with a sawzall. took me 90 minutes but got it done

pmnfernando

thanks for the input guys!
it does makes sense having that extension to balance the rudder

pmnfernando

turns out somebody made a leading edge out of plywood and just faired it in, no glassing. obviously the whole thing is waterlogged.
wasnt expecting this at all. any ideas as to why?

pmnfernando

somebody just slapped a ton of compound into this rudder

pmnfernando

after peeling the rudder this old repair presented itself. got me thinking..."hum that is some extensive damage right there"
later i found an edge which had failed, got the chisel in and off it went....

pmnfernando

about 4 hours with the peeler. always a bit tricky to start, more dings and scuffing than i would like but then it gets better. it was tricky to get an exact setting on the depth so i opted to leave a bit of the original primer on since i will need to sand further to remove the vertical ridges. belo...

pmnfernando

keel seal fail

pmnfernando

after the pressure wash

pmnfernando

closer look at the layers. it seems the hull has been re-gelcoated twice since new.

pmnfernando

30 min fiddling about with the peeler, couple of digs, but nothing that cant be repaired, depth set (i hope) for the rest of the boat. you can see that towards starbord it was getting cleaner

pmnfernando

the cat is out of the bag

pmnfernando

tank is looking good!!

pmnfernando

hi yes i would be chaining them for sure! dont want them wondering about at that stage. i have since decided to part with some more money and have a crane lift the boat. i will build a skate for the keel out of 18 mm ply, have the boat land on it and stands, undo the top keel bolt nuts and start att...

pmnfernando

Hi CapnK I was also leaning towards that option to be honest. the thing going with this approach is: i need to almost take the full weight of the boat in order to get those 3 mm that will let me remove some of the wood shocks so that the keel can be efectively lowered when the time comes to separate...

pmnfernando

Hi again i am planning to replace the keel bolts and painting the boat, starting in late october. the boat has a long fin keel which is 750 mm tall and 2600 mm long, ie, it has a large foot print compared to modern keels my idea to separate the keel from the hull is following: instead of lifting the...

pmnfernando

Hi again!

Does anyone has experience with Expanded PVC Foam Sheets?
Saw that material being used to build a hard bimini cover and tought it could be an option for my own bimini.
Any hands on reviews on that material?

pmnfernando

i think i might go with galvanized, that bronze is just WAY to expensive

interlux 's Primocon is suitable for galvanized steel, so i will go with that as a primer, and then anything epoxy based that's suitable for underwater metal will do

pmnfernando

"I have been searching for 1 inch silicon bronze all thread and been failing miserably at finding it i did found some 1 onch rod but the price is simply thru the roof. im talking about 2400 USD total. i guess its time to browse other alternatives what about mild steel? and if so does anyone rec...

pmnfernando

hi again its not that im doubting what you say, or even about the cost, as i can wait to make that purchase. the thing is, everywhere i go look for info, pretty much everybody says: use bronze with lead keels not iron ones. its amazing how in 2021 its impossible to find a straight forward answer to ...

pmnfernando

pmnfernando

Hello again I have decided to replace the keel bolts myself. Would like to hear some opinions on this subject, maybe someone did it before, it would be great to have some input. Atomvoyager sugested bronze (silicon bronze) as the material of choice for the new keel bolts. This being an iron cast kee...

pmnfernando

just a section of ths sheerclamp after removing the paint, showing signs of water ingress. ive begun to remove those small areas. this only stresses my initial feeling that i must sand all the sheerclamp in order to fully acess its condition. no one would be able to visually tell that underneath the...

pmnfernando

Making a hole on the locker wall to enable the removal of the rotted

wood.

pmnfernando

hi Atomvoyager Thanks for the input, nice bit of kit! was going thru some of the gear leftover from previous owners and found that. Text the last owner, didnt know what it was either, but kept it thru the years. turns out it comes in handy to fly the spinnaker.! fairly expensive for what it is, 200 ...

pmnfernando

Can anyone tell me what this is?

pmnfernando

quick trip to the marina after work to remove some of the teak toerail and plug the holes. teak wasnt actually that bad, but there was water ingress thru some of the bolts. wont be using teak but a teak-looking plastic. no maintenance, no more trees cut down. (dont know about the carbon footprint of...

pmnfernando

detail of one of the nuts holding the chainplate
it just broke when i used a spanner

pmnfernando

after the removal of all the rotten wood in that section and all taped up to receive thickned epoxy poured from the deck. there is more affected wood to be removed, but i have a small wet locker foward of that section, for which i will need to cut out a portion of its wall in order to acess and remo...

pmnfernando

time for the STB cupboard to give way for what needs done

pmnfernando

portside aft chainplate sheerclamp section unlike the fwd one, which was dry, i am having this one removed as it is wet, despite being in the sun, in this case, the screws which holds the teak toerail are leaking thru the hull deck join and into the sheerclamp (where everything bolts) so yeah.....mo...

pmnfernando

well.... the side cup boards were in the way.....and new ones were always in the plan. Actually, for now i think im only keeping the main bulkhead and 2 semi bulkheads from the original build. Everything else is getting redone (its only more work after all ahahahaha) WhatsApp Image 2021-02-23 at 20....

pmnfernando

after the complete removal of glass it was a messy job, im still itching from all that. (no i dont use a suit, because it would be IMPOSSIBLE to work on the boat, this is Asia after all, where in Feb we have around 25 C and 80% humidity, i recorded 30 C inside the boat today) can you imagine this pl...

pmnfernando

same procedure done on portside this time unlike stb side the glass was still doing its job but its gettind removed for new material will be glassed in its place the difference is im keeping the reinforcing wood because it is dry. in my opinion the reason why portside is better than std is due to th...

pmnfernando

after all the rotten wood is removed.
you are looking at the enlarged holes where the chainplates and stanchions were thru bolted

pmnfernando

removing the woven roving that was applied long ago
i removed it by simply using a chisel, proving that the bond failed long ago

pmnfernando

Hello again what you are going to see is a sequence of photos pertaining to the removal of a rotten section from the stb sheerclamp plus a reinforcing piece of wood (darker wood) that was originally join to the sheerclamp. interestingly this reinforcing wood wasnt glued to the sheerclamp but only ke...

pmnfernando

note how i wasnt able to remove all the moist wood you can see a darker circle around the epoxy plug. after sanding all the sheerclamp i will run a dehumidifier for a week to see if i can lower the water content a bit more. the plan is to reinforce the whole hull/deck join by applying a layer of bia...

pmnfernando

dry fitting 3 mm G10 board

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