Plastic Classic Forum

galleywench

It probably goes without saying, but be sure to check all deck-mounted hardware for underlying rot. I had substantial rot under cleats that were surrounded by otherwise solid end-grain balsa core. Definitely, I have every piece of hardware stripped from the decks and the whole deck is coming up. Ar...

galleywench

This job is made much easier by a Fein Multimaster or knock off... use the scraper blade held on an angle around the outer surface and it chews out the balsa quickly. Unfortunately the Fein is not in the budget, but I plan on a dremel multimax or the bosch. It also takes off the loose bits that don...

galleywench

Excellent, I have plenty of strapping and 2x3's. I am really looking forward to the day when I can start actually building things back up... sometimes it seems like I will never make any progress in the right direction. Just when I think I am about to start rebuilding, I end up adding another thing ...

galleywench

Once you've opened the area, just remove all the core and start fresh. In other areas, you might try a series of 1/2" test holes to determine the core's condition before you open up a large area, if you don't want to do the entire area. Wide chisels and 5-in-1 tools are good for digging out ex...

galleywench

Hi all, A few questions came up this weekend when I started cutting the top skin off the cabin top in preparation for my re-core project. With all the knowledge here, I am guessing these are fairly common questions (I did do a search, but didn't find what I needed). Anyway, here goes (I've posted pi...

galleywench

Nice writeup on your site, I'm looking forward to seeing pix of the connections.

galleywench

Looks like something like this could work: http://www.staffordmfg.com/ProdSpec.aspx?catId=9 I don't think there is room for this on a Triton without enlarging the bottom end of the tube and then you would still have to drop the rudder far enough to bolt/unbolt the coupling. -- Eric, #635 Good point...

galleywench

perhaps there was no intent to provide emergency steering on your boat, or someone eliminated the possibility. Should be relatively easy to correct the lack. You are spot on, I spoke with the previous owner and he said that his plan for an emergency tiller was to drop the anchor and call the Coast ...

galleywench

hmmm, maybe the originals were stainless. Sadly though, mine is about 2-3 inches below the cockpit sole, so there is no way I could retrofit a standard rudderhead.

galleywench

Looks like something like this could work:

http://www.staffordmfg.com/ProdSpec.aspx?catId=9

galleywench

I like the idea, but wouldn't you have to pull the shaft out in order to cut it in the first place, or can you cut it in place? Seems like it would be pretty common if it were practicable, since burrowing under the heaviest part of the boat to drop the rudder always seems like an accident waiting to...

galleywench

Thanks Ric, Not really what I wanted to hear, but at least I know now... The rudder post must have either been dropped and cut or replaced with a shorter one at some point. I am guessing that it was replaced since the post is stainless and I'm not sure but I think that the original posts were bronze...

galleywench

Hi all, I am hoping there are a few A35 owners watching this board who can give me some info/advice. In the boat's current configuration, there is wheel steering with no emergency tiller backup in the event that a cable jumps a sheave and gets jambed (or other steering failure). I have never been co...

galleywench

In using that article snippet (I didn't follow the link to read the whole thing) to help support your proposed changes, you're confusing "stability" with the boat's inclination to heel to a certain point. I believe Tritons are inherently very stable. Their ultimate stability happens to be...

galleywench

Don't add ballast. . I agree. A few years ago I experimented with additional ballast on my Alberg 35 (similar hull form). I messed around with about 600 pounds of lead (in 50 pound ingots) over one summer, moving it to various locations in the bilge and trying it on different points of sail. The on...

galleywench

MikeD wrote:I wouldn't be without them.

In fact, I wish I had doubles. It'd save a few gray hairs.

Wow, looks like you have your hands full. I think you need more than doubles, With that many little ones onboard, I think I would have them all tied and duct taped to the deck.

galleywench

Henk, I like the rail mount, it looks as though the bulwarks on the Islander are about the same dimensions as what I have on my Alberg. The extra 3 or 4 inches might make all the difference for me. Rachel, thanks for the picture of the Westsail mount, I was searching all the Westsail websites last n...

galleywench

Just a thought, if your bulwarks are high, stanchions attached to bulwarks are less intrusive to the toes, eliminate potential leaks to the core- and - for you - get the whole set up a little higher (above your knee). I know of a source for such stanchions if interested. That sounds interesting, I ...

galleywench

Your points are well taken; as much as I don't like all the things that lifelines do wrong, I think that the added measure of safety that they give people makes up for their shortcomings (even if they send me head first, at least my kids will stay on board). Damn, now I am going to have to work on m...

galleywench

I pondered it briefly but chose to reinstall mainly for others, not me. I have never used a life line to stay on board that I can remember, but I have kids and non sailors aboard and I think they need to be there. This is really the only reason I will probably put them back on. I have 2 kids who ar...

galleywench

I was stripping my decks of hardware last week and was struck by the beauty of the boat without any deck clutter, just the simple lines of the boat (alberg 35) without anything else to distract. It seemed to me that the boat looked better without the lifelines, pulpit, and pushpit. I didn't really t...

galleywench

Devise some sort of closure for them for the times when you want to hold heat, but the default situation needs to be "Ventilation, And Plenty Of It". Thanks for the replies, it looks like I still have a little work to do before I call finished. I am going to cut out the gable end vents to...

galleywench

dig a trench-wrap the plastic around a piece of old pipe-and bury it. Then bring the plastic up about 2' off the ground and tape and heat it.Backfill a bit up to the shed and you will encourage run-off away. One side of the shed is upslope and I was thinking that it might be a problem. I think your...

galleywench

I haven't cut it out yet but the gable ends are framed for 2'x2' openings (you can see the framing in the attached picture). I am debating on whether or not to open these up until the spring. In the week since the shed has been enclosed, there hasn't been any moisture buildup yet. I am going to wait...

galleywench

Just about finished now, just have to close up the bottom edge and shrink it and I'll be good for a while.

galleywench

To make a long story sort of short; after a year sitting in a boatyard and not being able to do any real work on the boat (a long list of projects), I finally had the time to cut in a new road on our property for my 'home boatyard'. Last December I had it trucked up and deposited on a gravel pad. Af...

galleywench

Looks like a great time, and your Islander is in great shape. I haven't seen too many of them that still look that great.

galleywench

Thanks for the replies, they make me feel better. I was beginning to wonder if my kids had filled it up with stones during the year the spar has been sitting there.

galleywench

I have a 1962 Alberg 35 and while I was moving the mast this weekend (with my neighbor's help), I couldn't help but notice how ridiculously heavy it was. I have owned the boat for 10 years now and I'm not sure if I have ever tried to lift it before. It has always been handled by the marina or left s...

galleywench

A NE 38's coamings are one piece of teak, about 14" wide at the forward end and 8" at the aft. They are notched up and on top of the decks fore and aft, thus creating a stess concentration which at the aft end is unsupported (cracked on Quetzal). Sounds like the same or similar arrangemen...

galleywench

I'm not quite so North, but certainly frozen. I want to do the same, I am really tired of having to spend my springtime stripping and revarnishing everything. With the exception of the new toerail, I plan on removing all brightwork and keeping it inside for the winter. I did the same thing with an A...

galleywench

Hi all, Just getting started on my Alberg 35 refit this year and I'm in the process of stripping the deck of all hardware including toerail and cockpit coamings. The coamings are proving very difficult to remove as they are through bolted to the cockpit and I suspect they may have been installed bef...

galleywench

Thanks for the info David,
I wonder if the high oil content of teak contributed to the fisheyes. I wouldn't expect the same result from mahogany though.

-matt

galleywench

Anyone have any experience with this company? I know the website is awful, but the prices are really cheap and they are located about 20 minutes from my house.

galleywench

I just picked up a similar model by the same company. I love it; works great.

galleywench

I have an oldie too! 1962. No idea the hull number. Have searched high and low!!!! Ever find it someshere besides the builders plate? You can see some pics in the blog on my sig. I've owned the boat since 2000 and have never found signs other than on the builders plate, but to be honest I haven't l...

galleywench

Thanks Ric, I hope your right, but I will find out this spring when I open up the decks (it's not gonna be pretty). I haven't seen any evidence of deflection in the cabin top with the mast up or under load while sailing, but there is some crazing/cracking in the area, so I can't say for sure. By the...

galleywench

Hi all, I've been following this forum for some time and have been messing about in old boats for as long as I can remember. I own a 1962 Alberg 35 that I have neglected for far too long (sailing is more fun than grinding). The list of things to do is long, but for the upcoming year I really need to...

Plastic Classic Forum

Search found 188 matches

Re: Re-core questions

Re: Re-core questions

Re: Re-core questions

Re: Re-core questions

Re-core questions

Re: Alberg 35 rudder post

Re: Shaft couplings

Re: Alberg 35 rudder post

Re: Alberg 35 rudder post

Re: Shaft couplings

Re: Shaft couplings

Re: Alberg 35 rudder post

Alberg 35 rudder post

Re: Adding more ballast to Triton

Re: Adding more ballast to Triton

Re: Lifelines

Re: Lifelines

Re: Lifelines

Re: Lifelines

Re: Lifelines

Lifelines

Re: Another Stimson

Re: Another Stimson

Re: Another Stimson

Re: Another Stimson

Another Stimson

Re: Two week summer cruise

Re: Mast Weight

Mast Weight

Cockpit coaming replacement

Progressive Epoxies

Mast step question