Plastic Classic Forum

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Yes, I worked for a Johnson dealer on Lake Ontario the summer of 1957. 56 years later and even the original paint looked almost like it did when I bought it. They just don't make them like they used to.

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I second the outboard motor mount.

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When I was in high school I used money from my newspaper route to purchase a brand new 1957 Johnson 5 1/2 hp ($210.00). This was essentially the sane engine as the Evinrude. It was my first outboard and just last year I gave it to a young boy in my neighborhood . It still runs like a fine Swiss watch.

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Wow, lots of progress. I really like that starboard removable bilge pump mount and that engine panel looks great. Keep up the fine work!

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Congrats on a successful launch. I'm sure you are excited with all the new rigging and the tiller pilot.. Auto pilots are the single hander's best friend. Smooth sailing!!!.

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Having installed a few of them I agree with John. One nice thing is that you will never have an engine cooling intake seacock vibrate closed causing damage from accidental overheating.

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Clever idea for fabricating the panel. How heavy was the cardboard you used? I will be interested in how well it holds up. Please keep us posted.

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Whatver you do, DON'T rely on hose clamps to squeeze an oversize hose onto the stern tube. You will just be inviting disaster.

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I forgot to ask,, but are there positive rudder stops on each side when the rudder is hard over. A proper installation will have rudder stops to limit the travel and not rely on the cable/cchain length limiting the amount of travel.

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It sounds to me like the chain is too short if the end of the end of the chain can reach the sprocket with the wheel hard over to either side..

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I had a boat that came with a similarly bored prop and there was a bronze collar added between the prop hub and the threads on the shaft. It performed well for the 18 years I owned the boat.....I say go with it as long as you have no vibration issues and it performs OK..

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Wow, you are making great progress. The trailer looks very nice. I bet you are getting anxious to get her back in the water. Best of luck and smooth sailing.

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She has pretty lines. Who is the designer? Reminds me of some of Bill Tripp's work.

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Very nice job. As far as the teak and holly ply goes, you might try checking with a couple of boatyards in your area to see if they have any cut-offs left from a larger job. I got some cut-offs for rather short money a coupe of years ago from one of the local boatyards.

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You are progressing nicely. I like your idea of the chart on the chart table lid. I look forward to the photos showing your progress. I guess we all like the photos as they seem to tie the entire project together in a logical way that we can appreciate.

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I used KIWI-GRIP on a previous boat. All I can say is "Great Product".

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Looking good!

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My bad. I had never seen pilot point bits capable of drilling stainless steel. After a quick search on Google I found them. Thanks for enlightening me. :-)

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Agreed,, wrong bit for the job at hand.

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I wish you the best.

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Make sure you coat all surfaces of the new marine ply with epoxy paying close attention to the edges with the exposed open grain before permanently installing the ply..

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All I can say is WOW !!!!!!. You are making progress and she is certainly looking great. I'm sure you feel like progress is slow, but as long as you keep plugging away, you will eventually have a gorgeous .classic that is well founded and ready for some sailing adventures. Keep up the great work and...

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I agree, a Rhodes Bounty II. (One of Phillip Rhodes' gorgeous creations.)

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Congrats on a very nice restoration of a classic. She is vessel of beauty.

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Congrats on a job well done.

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Very nicely done John.

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Here is one place to start your search: http://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Rudder_ ... er%20Heads

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Quite simply, it's not worth the risk

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Agreed!

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Bob, I don't have any photos and I am getting ready to have a hip replacement next week, but I will try to explain the construction of the plywood pouch or pockets.. 1. There is a 1 x 1 mahogany cleat the length of the longest weather board screwed to the bulkhead horizontally and two more short 1 x...

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Try any of these.

H & L Marine Woodwork Inc - Compton, California
Exotic umber, Annapolis, MD (www.exoticlumberinc.com/)
West Marine (www.westmarine.com/)
Defender Industries (www.defender.com/)
Hamilton Marine (www.hamiltonmarine.com/)

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Try any of these.

H & L Marine Woodwork Inc - Compton, California
Exotic umber, Annapolis, MD (www.exoticlumberinc.com/)
West Marine (www.westmarine.com/)
Defender Industries (www.defender.com/)
Hamilton Marine (www.hamiltonmarine.com/)

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Bob,
My Sabre has a plywood pouch (1/4 inch ply) built in the starboard cockpit sail locker on the bulkhead that separates the locker from the engine compartment. This is convenient since I do not have to take them below to stow them.

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She is a very nice example of a wonderful classic. I sailed in many small boat regattas on Seneca Lake in Rhodes Bantams and Lightnings in my younger days. What a great venue. I have many fond memories chasing regattas around the finger lakes region. Congratulations!!! I'm sure you are just chomping...

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I have used the Liquid Wrench Marine Grease on mall boat trailers.....Good stuff!
That trailer is gonna look brand new when you are through. :-).

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IMHO cam cleats are fine for smaller one design dinghys but for head-sails on larger boats I prefer self tailing winches.

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I second the tip of using FSR. It worked extremely well removing 2 small rust stains from my new Quantum 130 Genoa.

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Nice job on those fenders. By the look of them you must have sprayed them. When I rebuilt a trailer for my one designs I glued an old inner tube to the under side of the fenders with contact cement. It kept stones from chipping the paint which leads to rust (especially if you launch in salt water a ...

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Squidd, Nicely done. Have you subjected it to windy conditions to see how upright she floats? I'd be interested to hear how much lead you end up using as well as measurements above and below the float. I built a 12 foot MOB pole many years ago using two old discarded whip antennas which were hollow ...

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Squidd,
Looks like you got yourself a great deal. She looks very nice at anchor in your last pic. Enjoy her!

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Here are some photos of my 1982 Sabre 34 MK I http://www.earlylight160.net76.net/Anchor001.jpg http://www.earlylight160.net76.net/Anchor002.jpg http://www.earlylight160.net76.net/Sailing002.jpg http://www.earlylight160.net76.net/Sailing004.jpg http://www.earlylight160.net76.net/StLeonardRaft03.jpg

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Peter,
Both yachts have very nice lines and I would bet they both sail like a dream. Where is your home port?

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Great, enjoy your holiday sailing, I'm envious.

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Wow, looking good. Are you going to replace the broken rub rail you removed?

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Maine Sail,
I really like those battery boxes in your second photo. Do they come with lids or covers? Where can they be purchased? Thanks in advance for any info you are able to provide.

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John, The video and Chuck are correct for the reason that Chuck mentions. (The first large patch gets a much larger bonding area to the hull). I filled two holes from unused sea-cocks and one from a knot-meter paddle wheel transducer on my previous boat and the repairs were as solid as the hull itse...

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Has anyone on this forum had any experience with winter covers from www.shipshapecovers.com in Deluth, Minnesota? Their prices seem quite reasonable. I worry about the fit since the do not come to the boat to measure. Any and all comments etc. are appreciated.

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I was taking to a Triton owner with a 67 or 68 boat. He had it weighed when hauled with a crane. The crane operator said the scales were good to plus or minus 50 lbs and his Triton weighed in at 8400. I do not know how full the fuel and water tanks were.

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I have always used stainless steel set screws for the cutlass bearing. Never had a problem. Sapele is a nice looking wood, but I have never used it on a boat and I have no idea how nicely it mills.

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If it were me, I would go with 2 or 3 coats of bottom pint over 4 good coats of epoxy The epoxy will act as a barrier coat.

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