Plastic Classic Forum

Thanks for sharing that. Interesting idea to have that swing out instrument panel to handle multiple devices.

On my trailer the top holes in the outer tube are 3" below the top. On the aft tube the inner tube has the hole 29" below the top. I'm not sure of the dimension for the shorter center and forward tubes but it's less. The holes near the bottom of the of the outer tubes allow you to put the ...

Thanks for sharing this video. John's Cape Dory 36 rebuild was beautifully done with many practical added features. John, I noticed that your tiller is 5' long and looks like it comes up to the forward end of the footwell. We are going to build a tiller for Mark's CD36 here and planned on making it ...

While certain mat binders may not be optimal I have never had a problem using mat with epoxy resin. But I do normally use a 10 oz cloth or heavier 1208 for most jobs instead. As long as you grind a bevel in the outside and then put several layers on the inside (no bevel needed there), the mat wont b...

Thanks for sharing that. Pacer is a good choice and I like that it has PVC jacket instead of the Ancor wire vinyl which is prone to dark stains from some type of mildew that grows on it in some situations. I generally use Ancor because my wholesale price is about 30% less than from Pacer although I ...

Thanks for checking in with your Triton project. Along the way, let us know if you have questions or just to share your progress.
James

The shower sump pump is normally installed in a box that has several inlets and one outlet but I guess it doesn't have to be that way. But if you have a bilge pump taking the shower drain into a T to the seacock, the deck washdown pump might suck air through the shower pump rather than the seacock u...

You could glue it in but you need a way to secure it in position while the adhesive dries and in general it's better to have it fastened and removable, if possible. Doesn't matter how hard the wood it since you would drill the screw holes large enough to pass thru the Ipe and then have pilot holes o...

Unless the wood is already smooth I usually hit it first with 120 then 220. I use black polysulfide Lifecaulk to seal the edges and only after all varnish and paint is finished. I've found 5200 and other white adhesive/sealants don't hold up well to UV. You don't need teak cleaner if you are strippi...

Contest31 has made some good points. To add to that, length of anchor rode depends somewhat on budget, space available and how deep of anchorages you expect to encounter. You should be able to anchor in less than 45' depths as a rule unless you are headed someplace know for deep anchorages so you mi...

If you haven't sprayed automotive or marine paints before than there is a big learning curve and lots of equipment and setup and testing time needed. Spraying can give you a better finish in a shorter time but not worth it unless you will paint more than one boat. This $70 gun works OK for paint and...

I didn't notice this post until today. Those 5,400 lb WLL straps are more than big enough. I use these $50 5,000 lb ones, one in each corner. They will never see even a 1,000 lb load. They are not certified for anything but have worked fine for me on many cross country hauls including a couple tire ...

Welcome to the group. I'm currently putting primer on and prepping to paint the decks on a Cape Dory 27 and 36. On the 27 I'm spraying Interlux Epoxy PrimeKote followed by Eggshell White Awlcraft 2000 on gloss trim areas with rolled Gray Kiwigrip for nonskid. On the CD36 because it is in a yard wher...

The distance between the square tubes was measured from the base at the top of the trailer frame. The distance apart is not really important as long as you place them as far apart as possible. Hopefully that will make them not less than the dimensions given. Ideally the trailer frame would be even w...

The aft two 2" square tubes are about 30" overall and all the others about 28". The 2.5" tubes are open at bottom. Fully retracted with pins out, the inner tubes sit up to about 2" below the bottoms of the 2.5" tubes and at times you may need them fully down to clear th...

Yes I've used this same trailer specs when hauling A30s. The trailer is designed for any boat up to about 31' and 10,500 lbs so the A30 is a good fit. Right now I have my 28' Triton on one and a Cape Dory 27 on the other same size trailer.

I forgot to mention that the 1.25" threaded rod slips into a piece of PVC tube about 8" long that happens to be a tight fit in the 2" steel channel. They just tapped it in with a hammer and it stays at the top of the 2" channel as a bushing. Since I didn't build the trailer I don...

The upper telescoping tube diameter is 2" and the lower is 2.5". The pin hole positions are three for each support spaced between 9-11" apart depending on overall tube lengths. The screw pad thread length is 24" with 12" sq carpet covered 2/4" plywood pads. The tube sup...

I wouldn't bother with the white stripe between bottom paint and bootstripe. You can paint the bootstripe directly over 2000e. As you know, 2000e Interprotect is hard to sand. So go ahead and add epoxy Primecoat over it if you aren't happy with how smooth it is.

You could strip the affected area, apply 2000e barrier coat and add a 3" bootstripe and hope that it doesn't suffer the same bubbling problem. From pictures I've seen of your boat it looks like you have around 4" from actual resting waterline to the bottom of the white topside paint. If it...

That's a good solution. Thanks for sharing it.

Thanks for the report. If you sand the kiwigrip with 120 grit it will be easier to wipe clean. I don't think motoring with a drain plug out is going to work since the loaded waterline is too low and it's not likely you feel like motoring while cleaning. A sponge and bailer cup will work better than ...

Since the bulkhead is close to the pad eye I would just use the G10 plate as you described and the bulkhead will pick up any potential deflection load. It's most likely strong enough as is but if unsure about the strength of the bulkhead to deck bolted joint you can stiffen it with fiberglass or mak...

Each situation is different. It depends on how close the deck pad eye is to the chain locker bulkhead and how strong that is attached to the deck, how stiff is the deck and how much unsupported area it has in the region of the pad eye, how big the boat is and how large of a sail will be on the inner...

I've used epoxy in the past but Titebond III Ultimate is waterproof and easier to use so I've used that in recent years and don't expect any problems.

The boat looks great. Congratulations on completing your Allied Seawind refit and getting underway again.

Here's a link to a discussion of inner stay tensioning devices: https://plasticclassicforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6438&p=52899&hilit=solent#p52899 I would keep the headstay and spinn halyard where they are and add your solent stay to a mast hound within about 2 feet of the top of...

That's a good point about the cleats. You might move them a foot or so aft. I wouldn't go much more than that though because they more easily catch loose jib sheets.

Congratulations on a fine looking boat. I'm curious what you used for deck paint and how it was applied and if you were happy with the choice. Either layout could work but I have a slight preference for the cleats in the outboard position since it gives you less obstructed footing. I like the bollar...

That makes sense. I'm going to try G10 3 and 6mm in some places going forward. Thanks.

This is all impressive and well done. I hadn't considered using G10 for cabinetry, partly because of cost and weight and I thought the 1/4" panels would flex too much and require stiffeners in many places. But I see there are a lot of possibilities. Have you found that the larger panels need mo...

I've been using whatever weatherstripping is available at the time on Amazon but it probably isn't the best for longevity. I do take care to apply it with 3m black super weatherstrip adhesive and don't rely on the self-adhesive backing that it comes with. And I apply the gasket to the lid not the fr...

He's probably talking about galvanized shackles that can corrode and be difficult to remove after awhile. In general galvanized shackles are potentially stronger than equivalent stainless shackles and less chance of breaking due to poor casting or stainless corrosion when underwater. I had a stainle...

My thought would be that as long as you strengthen the hull as described then they are best thru-bolted with butyl and not buried under glass. You just have to use your judgement on how thick and wide of fiberglass to reinforce the hull and if adding a knee near each one is warranted to stiffen the ...

If the mast clears the coachroof when sitting on pulpit and pushpit then the simplest way to reduce those loads is to just add a center support on the coachroof to share the load. That could be a v-shaped 2x4 crutch with a bolt or build a wood brace of any type that is stable. The pulpit would have ...

Also, Sail-rite sells their version of butyl. I found it useable but a bit less sticky than Bed-it although it sticks to the backing paper too well.
https://sca.sailrite.com/Trimmable-Butyl-Tape-3-4

I noticed Bed-it butyl had been out of stock everywhere for about a year but apparently is now available again from Hamilton Marine: https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/butyl-tape-bed-it-1-2--x-50--roll-4482.html This Dicor brand on Amazon is cheaper and might be OK but I haven't tried it yet. ...

If it were me I'd prefer to have 1/4 all around but that is not essential. You could go with 1/4 headstay and 7/32 everywhere else if that was easier for you to get clevis pins to fit existing hardware. 3/16 is undersize for what I would want though. Chainplate clevis pin holes can be drilled out on...

Nice to see all your progress. Did you mention somewhere the reason you are using G10 rather than plywood for all this?

Welcome Craig A friend of mine fit out his B29.9 and sailed from California to Australia around 2015. Last year I heard the boat was in Indonesia. As for rigging size you should check what's on there now (probably 7/32" or 1/4" or a combination of the two) and then decide if you can or sho...

I once did a relatively quick repair on one of these A30 seat lids when it was just the top couple plys that were loose and peeling. I ground off the damaged area and ground the fiberglass edge down just past the gelcoat and then built up new glass that overlapped onto the fiberglass for the inch or...

Can you give us more details of what you are trying to do exactly? It sounds like you want to repair the mast support beam because it is visibly sagging on the inside? and the deck is sagging also? Were you planning to leave the deck alone and cut the fiberglass liner and support beam from inside th...

I think that's a good choice. It may be for inner stays on smaller boats but it's lightweight and inexpensive enough to be good for your purpose.

You won't have any issue with concentrated heat on the wider standard version since liquids diffuse the heat well enough. In fact, my guess is the standard version is more efficient use of heat since it has a wider surface to capture the flame instead of some of the flame heat rolling up the side in...

I don't know if anyone else here has a recommendation but I would get at least 2 liter capacity even if cooking small amounts since it's easier to deal with a half full pot than one that is close to full.

The small one is probably strong enough but it has 3/8" max line size. The large one is more than needed. I would get the intermediate size 30-19US: https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/blocks-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/single-blocks-blocks-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/single-stand-up-blocks-single-...

The next person to build might compromise weight to impact/abrasion resistance and use 1208 on the bottom instead of 1708 but I think it is a good idea to have something down there thicker than on the sides. The plywood version I built ended up about 59.5 lbs after all hardware and gunwale guard wer...

Looks nice. You mentioned to me earlier that you had some ripples of thick resin under the single layer of outside fiberglass. If they are small you can add 407 as you described and long board it but if they are high I would probably sand them out and add a single layer of 6oz cloth instead and take...

Assuming the mix was correct, the odor will go away over time. With the charcoal filter in place you won't notice any odor or taste to the water now. If drying conditions weren't good and you put the top of the tank on without letting the coatings air dry for a week or so first then this is normal. ...

It may be strong enough as is but I would install compression nuts or sleeves of whatever type so that the vertical weight will be transferred to the step by the nuts instead of putting all the load on the plate and pins.

Search found 380 matches