Plastic Classic Forum

Out of the barn and down the road...Trip was uneventfull and I like it that way..;) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v248/Squidd/2013_zps41e34856.jpg I got there at 2:00 Marina was nice enough to give me a 3:00 Friday afternoon Mast Stepping party...which was cool cause at 3:30 a 50 mph wind whippe...

Yes, I "dry slip" out of Washburn Harbor on the edge of the Apostle Islands Lake Superior... They have a decent sloped ramp and I can dunk er in the water by myself in less than 20 minutes...Same with pulling out, I have rear "guide posts" that line up the back and a flag up fron...

Work keeps me busy till after Memorial Day...then I can start taking weekends off...So hopefully splash first of June... I have most all my spring list done, just need to clean out the inside and reload my gear, wash and wax the outside and check the trailer over for the ride... Buddy came over and ...

Taped off an area for the Non Skid...Enough to cover my recore work and leave a good inch or so of original sole showing... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v248/Squidd/424147_zps838d698b.jpg Kiwi Grip went on easy, and rolled in just enough texture to cover the epoxy work (which was pretty smooth ...

Got 'er painted, after this drys I tape it off and Kiwi Grip it...

Rustoluem Marine Primer and Marine deck Paint left over from redoing the deck last year....

They're good little trucks and and seem to run almost forever...just surprised by the rust, but New York and Boston explain alot...

You live in Florida...?

I'm surprised that truck has so much undercarriage rust...more likely to see that up here where they put salt on the roads 7 months a year...

Sanded the sole with 60 grit, took off the lumps and bumps, cut off the loose fibers and generally smoothed things out... Then a fairing coat of epoxy over all... I added a little white colorant to the epoxy to be able to see the new coat and if the non skid gets scratched it'll still show white und...

I looked it up on line...looks like it might be the trick.....enough texture to cover my sin, non skid, and better than sand in the paint.

Thanks for the link...

The edges (wood to wood and wood to sole) are taped with FG cloth and glassed over..ties everything together It's gonna depend on how the top coat smooths out (and what tricks I use) but I'm thinking epoxy sand and paint for now...so I can get in the water... Depending on how it looks and lasts , I'...

Had a couple warm days (finally) so I layed up a bit more epoxy on the sole... I had already coated the bottom of the plywood as well as edges, then a layer in bottom of sole cavity...let that harden up... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v248/Squidd/424141_zps5b2299fe.jpg Then I mixed a batch and ...

Ummm...pilot points are for wood and non ferrous metals...

That should work fine... actually looks like the original was too far back and maybe hitting the skeg..? Rule of thumb is 1-2 x the diameter of the shaft = free space.. so your second pic looks more in line... Just want to confirm taper of shaft and taper of prop actually match or there will be vibr...

Got a chance to do a little more damage in the boat... Got the sole opened up and the old soft Balsa sub floor out... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v248/Squidd/217161_zps76c50cda.jpg Started fitting Marine grade plywood to fill void... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v248/Squidd/217162_zpsfc0a...

If it's been in a stable enviroment (no freeze/thaw) and the containers were "unopened"...they should be ok touse try a test batch first...

If the containers were opened it's a crapshoot they didn't dry out enough to change properties over the years...

I heard that alot, but the picture is decieving...it's small


Maybe 12" over all and 6"-8" of travel 1/4" line....

Cunningham was suggested, but I don't have the corrosponding gromet in the sail or attachment point on mast/boom

After much discussion it was decided this was the Topping Lift adjustment block and went from a fixed steel line to the end of boom.

Rather than the fixed length leader that was there now.Cleaned up nice, put new line on it and will try it out this spring.

Found it in the bowels of the boat... I do remember taking it off the aft end of the boom, when I first got the boat, but didn't use it last season (couldn't find it)... It either gives purchase to my outhaul (which is now 1:1 and not sure that's correct rigging) or... It adjusts my topping lift, wh...

I bought my boat thru Boat Angel...not a bad way to get a low dollar crusier if you can believe the pics...

Started to scrape out the old and see what kind of room I have to fill...Looks like the 1/2" marine ply I already have will work in this application... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v248/Squidd/217148_zpsf992d42d.jpg Unless this stuff has swolen that much....looks to be the same thickness a...

Not sure if I need to go that far... someone else had mentioned addressing this as a "structural" repair rather than cosmetic, but I'm not so sure these side pieces of sole add all that much to the floor/hull/strength... There are floor "joists" or bracing every 16" or so un...

Started my spring project list a little early, wanted to open it up and see what I was getting into... I cut the top layer of glass off with a cordless saw and peeled back the sole... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v248/Squidd/217141_zps264b4ac2.jpg Going to need warmer waether to thaw out the we...

I like "Cumaru" South American hardwood similar characteristics to teak, little lighter in color but you can stain to match...

Generally much less expensive and readily available...

I made a board bag out of sunbrella, with dividers inside to hold the three boards seperate...

Whole bag gets tucked in the aft quarterberth no nicks, scratches or damage and all three together and easy to get to when needed...

Thought I had a picture....will have to get one.

The Dyneema line is available in most any color and size if you look around.. 3/16"-1/4" and 5/16" are all appropriate. Any of those sizes will be stronger than your stanchions can hold... I shop around for most of my stuff on e-bay. The left handed, fine thread, SS, "I" bol...

The coated steel lifelines I had were cracked every inch or so with sections of covering missing where it passed thru the stancions and "frays" of wire poking out along the length... I read about the Dyneema Line being approved for use on racing boats so I thought I'd give it a try...(not ...

That's not bad, really...When I started my bottom I was sure I had opened a can of worms http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v248/Squidd/2152.jpg Some blisters down to glass Matt and to top it off looked like someone had tried a cheap repair previous and failed... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v24...

I sailed an older (1978 era layout) boat I bought last season with the rigging that came with the boat.. Basicly Jib sheet runs to track block mid ship then back to a fixed block...from there to the winch and then I tied it off to stock cleat with cleat hitch...worked fine, but a bit cumbersome for ...

Noticed it this winter when I laid out the #4 that I made (reconstructed) on top the Genny I got off e-bay just how dirty and rust stained my sails were... http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v248/Squidd/2052.jpg I wanted them to look "presentable" on the lake considering all the work I did ...

First a disclaimer..."This in NOT a IYRU and Transpac YC approved device, but never was intended for Ocean Racing type conditions...Doubt it would be of much use in 10'-15' waves and 30-40 knot winds...and has no strobe or EPIRB attached"... I built it as a safety /locating device for days...

Found my Lady on E-Bay charity auction... late at night ...I had been drinking... "They're not gonna give that boat away for $750..." so I bid on her knowing I'd be out bid...Hours turned to minutes to seconds ticking away and my $760 bid held...I won... Great, now "where is" thi...

I'm thinking the inside of a wind direction indicator.... Weather vane/ pointer missing...