Plastic Classic Forum

galleywench

Thanks, I hadn't thought about adding knees or stringers to help stiffen the hull deck joint, but worth considering. I'm going to have to do a little more analysis before I make the call. The good news is that it is officially way too cold to do any epoxy work in New Hampshire until the spring, so I...

galleywench

A very old, beat up 1963 Rhodes 19 followed me home from craigslist a few weeks ago and I've been going through and replacing just about everything. So far I've replaced and installed 8 of 10 transverse ribs that serve as a mounting point for floorboards and to hold the keel on. Pretty straight forw...

galleywench

Grinding the bottom is just plain awful. I've done a lot pretty bad boat work in my travels and this ranks right up there with the worst. It sure does look nice a purty when you finish up though. Since you have time, break it up into manageable bites.

galleywench

Awesome job! Congrats.

galleywench

Looks good, having a dry (or sometimes sun-free) place to work is key to getting the job done right.

galleywench

This is how I did it:

http://www.alberg35.com/2012/06/fun-wit ... ustic.html

galleywench

Figment wrote:That was a long road, congrats!

Time flies when your having fun ;)

galleywench

I know this forum is all but dead, but now that Magic is back in the water, I'm feeling a bit nostalgic for the good old days when there was lots of activity and expert help from all over the country/world. I've met some good friends here who have helped me work through a ton of issues during the co...

galleywench

I have this router signmaking template kit: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-sign-pro-router-kit/p-00966581000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kpid=00966581000&kispla=00966581000P Basically it's a set of plastic templates (you can pick the font) and a guide bushing that allows the router to follow the...

galleywench

It's been a while since I read the book, but I believe 'Heart of Glass' discusses these dinghies or something similar that Carl Beetle built back in the 50's, I'll have to go back and re-read it.

galleywench

Excellent. It never even occurred to me to use closed cell foam for projects of that nature. I already have something in mind. Thanks.

galleywench

I'm curious, is the expanding foam you used something like this product:
http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse. ... wKBLnw_wcB

galleywench

Thanks mainesail. I'll check those forums out.

galleywench

It's sad isn't it... This site helped me solve so many problems along the way. I'm always on the lookout for new posts, but haven't seen anything noteworthy of late. I still use the site as a reference because there is a ton of good info in the threads and will post if I have specific questions, but...

galleywench

I'm sure they will hold fine, as would the ez-stakes, I was just pointing out that you didn't need to spend $15 a stake when you could use cheaper dimensional lumber. I built mine with a 4 foot knee wall which necessitated a more robust footing, hence the 4x4 posts sunk deep. Either way, once built,...

galleywench

I just used a post hole digger and sank PT 4x4s into the ground as deep as I could get them (~4 feet). You can get a post hole digger for the price of 2 spikes. Those spikes may work if you don't hit any rocks but the bows will try to push out (especially if you get a snow load), so having a stable ...

galleywench

Thanks MD, Unfortunately I already bought and cut the fiberglass tube from McMaster Carr. I used the same 3" OD 2" ID tubing and now have some rather expensive leftover tubing. I guess if I want to build a cannon I'll be all set. It sounds like your setup was very similar to mine (except f...

galleywench

Are there any good guides out there regarding building a rudder traditional style. By traditional, I'm referring to a rudder that uses mahogany (or other suitable lumber) that is glued (or maybe not) and drifted together with bronze rod? I've read up on the NACA foil guidlines (I will be following l...

galleywench

By the way, JD is having a sale on shrink wrap: 7mil 14'x128'. Free shipping, too. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63161&campaign=email102213 Would this be an appropriate material to wrap the shed in? My initial thought was to get greenhouse film 6mil locally...

galleywench

Now I gotta buy a torch?! Can you shrink using a heat gun or is that too small? Buy or rent (if you can) a shrink wrap torch/gun, a heat gun would take years (or a lifetime). I thought the tarp was more for moisture prevention.... but I guess ventilation is the better prevention. Ventilation is the...

galleywench

Great stuff as always, I've looked to your articles for direction on many occasions (I have a few rolls of your butyl tape for my rebedding projects).
Keep 'em coming.
-matt

galleywench

I shrink wrapped my shed with 7 mil white plastic and have had zero issues with it and it is just about 4 years old. At the time I bought the shrink wrap, most of the 7 mil stuff had a 5 year UV warranty. My shed is starting to see signs of aging, but it should have another winter left in it and my ...

galleywench

CharlieJ wrote:galleywench- I know the guy who runs this forum. I don't think there's any danger of it being shut down, at least not at this time.

That's good to hear, I'd love to see some more activity though. It takes my mind off my day job ;)

galleywench

This site has been a huge help for me during the course of my restoration. It is too bad that the number and variety of posts has fallen dramatically; but as pjesus said, I always get my questions answered and I really can't say how much I appreciate that. I would hate to see it shut down because th...

galleywench

I'm curious... How are you extending the actual rudder shaft itself? (As it was previously cut.) Are you replacing the shaft in its entirety? What is it made of? I will be dropping the rudder and replacing the shaft entirely with a longer one. Edson makes shaft extenders so I could bolt a shaft ext...

galleywench

I'm in the process of converting my Alberg 35 back to tiller steering and have a few questions. The original boat was tiller steered, but was converted sometime in the 80's to pedestal steering. During this conversion, the rudder shaft was cut so it was below the cockpit and a quadrant was fitted to...

galleywench

Most of the people I know with biminis fold them up when they leave for the weekend, as they mainly use them for afternoon sun protection. I should say that I've never had a bimini, but when my boat was in the water the dodger would stay up all summer. I never thought of biminis as semi-permanent st...

galleywench

This should work but is very expensive: http://www.edsonmarine.com/marinestore/ ... &cPath=289

I haven't found anything used, they seem to be few and far between.

galleywench

I know it's a late response, but I am planning on removing my wheel steering with a tiller as well. I don't think you'll be disappointed, the wheel just isn't needed on boats our size, adds complexity, and you lose the responsive feel of a tiller.

galleywench

I am going through the same thing myself and I'm not really looking forward to putting more holes back in the boat, but ultimately, Figment is correct. A properly trimmed sail is a properly trimmed sail and you need to have the ability to make adjustments to get the most out of your boat (you don't ...

galleywench

Great job, its amazing how the paint makes everything start to come together.

galleywench

Thanks for the responses. The local machine shop where I am having them drilled had no interest in polishing them mechanically and does not do passivation. He told me that unless I wanted that mechanically polishing them is not worth it for them because of the time involved. In any event, I just got...

galleywench

I ordered some .25" 316 flat bar from online metals to make up my new chainplates and I'm going to have holes punched/drilled at a local machine shop, but I've been reading online about passivating and/or polishing them to help prevent corrosion. I understand polishing and I'll get a quote from...

galleywench

I just went through a similar exercise earlier this year on a small part of my deck that had original paint on it. I had planned on using a 2 part paint (Interlux Perfection) and the product literature stated that it shouldn't be applied over an enamel or other 1 part paints. I wasn't sure what the ...

galleywench

Ok, I'm convinced, the final coat will remain high gloss. I just hope I don't screw it up and have to lay down a fourth coat. It's nerve racking to sand down a good looking finish with the hopes that the next coat will be better, but knowing that there are a whole slew of things that can go wrong al...

galleywench

I am approaching the point in my Alberg 35 recore/restoration where I have to decide whether to add a flattening agent to the final coat on the decks. I've done 2 coats of Interlux Perfection on all the areas that will be exposed (cabin top sides and the deck perimeter/bulwark). I will be using Kiwi...

galleywench

Well, so much for getting in to work early to get things done....

Fun stuff!

galleywench

Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear. I already tinted the kiwigrip, I'm really looking to find out some real world photos of Interlux Perfection in Matterhorn White and Mediterranean White.

galleywench

I hadn't considered that scenario. Unfortunately I already have my Kiwigrip in hand so that much of a change would be costly.

galleywench

I'm having trouble deciding on my deck paint color; I have it narrowed down to Interlux Perfection Matterhorn White or Mediterranean White and I am having trouble visualizing based on a paint chip on my monitor. I originally thought Matterhorn White but My non-skid (will be Kiwigrip) is going to be ...

galleywench

Wow, looks fantastic. She'll turn heads for sure!

Are you still on Lake Monomonac? I haven't heard that name in a long time, I surveyed the lake back in the early 90's.

galleywench

Looks good, but Six10 wouldn't be my choice for your next step. It's expensive, hard to sand, and is primarily used as a structural adhesive or gap filler. I'd go with a standard epoxy mix thickened with Cabosil (for strength) and microballoons (for sandability).

galleywench

If your going to be cutting a lot of fiberglass cloth (especially biax or heavier), there is no substitute for a pair of 12" Wiss scissors. They aren't cheap but I think they are worth every penny. They cut biaxial cloth like a hot knife through butter. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/use...

galleywench

If your going to be cutting a lot of fiberglass cloth (especially biax or heavier), there is no substitute for a pair of 12" Wiss scissors. They aren't cheap but I think they are worth every penny. They cut biaxial cloth like a hot knife through butter. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/user...

galleywench

Thanks very much, I'd be happy to pay for your time spent as well. Just pm me any details.

galleywench

Tallystick wrote:I only used 25ml for coating the portlights. It's a 4:1 mix resin to catalyst. I use plastic syringes from the grocery store pharmacy to measure small amounts.

Wow, you could repackage the rest of your gallon and sell 150 - 25 ml containers of it for a tidy profit :) Sounds like a new business.

galleywench

Ya the references I found on the interweb made it look like a heavy duty commercial product. Probably holds up better than a rattlecan clear coat, but $200 for a gallon is steep. I'd guess that a gallon goes a long way too. Anyone else looking to do the same in the New England area? Maybe we could d...

galleywench

They look nice. Are you going to clear coat the nice shiny bronze or let a patina develop? For my portlights I clear coated all the bronze with psx-700 except for the exterior facing part of frame that holds the glass, so there will be a small ring of patina around the glass for contrast. I'm not s...

galleywench

Because I am generally lazy when it comes to making things shiny and I like to tinker, I decided to go with electrolytic dechroming (homestyle)...

See my post here:

http://www.alberg35.com/2012/06/fun-wit ... ustic.html

galleywench

Wow, very nice. Do you have a make/model for those lights, I'd like to give it a go when I get to refurbishing my mast.

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