Plastic Classic Forum

The Froon

Carter, I think what you may hear from others is to first remove the old bedding material, clean the area, and then assess where and what to do from there. Are you see water penetrating this seam? What is your reasoning for grinding away and filling with glass? Anyway, take it down to solid surface ...

The Froon

Very similar to the Pearson Vanguard, take a visit on the following web page:

http://pearsonvanguard.homestead.com/files/index2.htm

Brian

The Froon

5200?

Try Tim Lackey's motorsailer project...he attaching what are essentially furring strips to the fiberglass overhead with 5200.

Brian

The Froon

Thanks all! I am sort of testing the waters on price / worth....of course, if the price was right! I am just starting a Westsail 32 (bare hull), but will have one to sail while I am working on another. My daughter is not yet taking to sailing, but she loves exploring the boat. Will most likely keep ...

The Froon

Appreciate the robust thread on this subject...it's why I love this forum so much. I am inclined, from the reading I have done here and elsewhere, to see benefit in creating a "foam" spacer between the unforgiving edge of plywood and a constantly flexing fiberglass hull. Cutting a trapezoi...

The Froon

much obliged

The Froon

Folks, can I trouble you for some suggestions on which brand of foam to use as a spacer between bulkheads and the fiberglass hull - so as to avoid hard spots, cracking, etc.?

Thanks,

Brian

The Froon

my daughter would love this boat too!

The Froon

Jeff: I stripped all of the hardware off of my boom, filled the holes, drilled and tapped for new and existing hardware...and painted. ALl came out perfectly (after a second priming attempt). The process I used was to countersinkaround the original fastener hole, and then mix up West System epoxy (t...

The Froon

Appreciate the kind words!

The Froon

PS: I like the color. I remember seeing a color something like that on the Kirby paint chart and thinking I'd like to see what it would look like on a plastic classic. Thanks Rachel...I mixed a 32:1 ratio of Interlux Brightsides (Blu Glow White and Fire Red); probably would have been much easier to...

The Froon

I've been quiet in the background...taking in the advice from The Plastic Classic Forum...and have just launched my restoration project...

http://www.seasprite217.blogspot.com/

Brian

The Froon

I am working with purpleheart on my restoration (backing plates, outboard motor mount / pad)...this species is pretty dense, so not sure it would be the easiest material to work with. Then again, teak is fairly hardy. It's hard to go wrong with the beauty of Mahogany.

Brian

The Froon

I meant to say vigorously re-sanded....haha.

The Froon

How about the Primekote? Was it sanded prior the application of the Prrfection? I used Primekote in anticipation of using Perfection, but decided to use Brightsides. I had some adhesion issues over a couple areas of applied Interprotect 2000. I vigorously resented the Interprotect and reapplied the ...

The Froon

As was mentioned previously regarding use of Epifanes High-Gloss....even on the 5th and 6th coats, I have added just a "smidge" of thinner to allow for a good flow and brush action. Great product...though next project I will likely try another brand (just to build the experience).

Brian

The Froon

Moving stands around is a lot easier than it first would appear...I have a Sea Sprite 23 that I regularly am adjusting stands on - due to the oversize stands I have. I have had to block the keel up a bit to accommodate the oversize stands, but this also puts me in a more comfortable working position...

The Froon

You might consider doing half of the job. Why not attempt, in a very concientious and methodical manner, removing the old bearing and prepping the stern tube for installation of the new bearing by the boat yard? Then again, you are half-way to completion, so you might as well finish the job :) My ap...

The Froon

Happy Birthday Tim! Thanks for a great forum...and for the sturdy advice!

Take a day off! :)

Brian

The Froon

Very sophmoric, but....First Post of 2011, ah yeah!! Happy New Year to everyone!

The Froon

Using Interlux Bilgekote...happy with it thus far. This is my first restoration, so others will most certainly chime in with time-tested product suggestions, but the Bilgekote is performing quite well.

Brian

The Froon

An option is to sand the molded non-skid surface off, then build with primer, and finally a non-skid product...

Brian

The Froon

You will want to "chase" out those cracks as much possible, within reason...because they are likely to show up again after you spend a great deal of care and time on a nice topsides job. If you have spiderwebbing across much of the surface, like I did, I would dig out the worst of the wors...

The Froon

I have just completed painting my boom with Pettit Easypoxy (one part epoxy) - a job anyone on this site could do successfully. My process: -Removed old hardware (some saved for re-installation, some replaced) -Counter-sinked old hardware holes, filled with thickened epoxy -Sanded boom fair, and to ...

The Froon

You will want to use closed cell foam - whichever product you decide to go with. A lot of manufactures in the early fiberglass days used open cell foams, and over time they became filled with water... I have a friend that is stuffing the hollows of a Rhodes 19 with cut up portions of 'noodles' - you...

The Froon

Doug, I have had my fair share of detail sanding (with just the fingers and paper)...I have found that taping up my top two knuckles on the thumb, pointer, index, and ring finger seemed to work well.

Happy sanding!

The Froon

Why not go with epoxy resin instead of the vinylester? The epoxy resin will have the greater mechanical bond strength versus the vinylester...and while your neck deep in building up the hull, why not use the best materials...

Brian

The Froon

as such...Interlux Epoxy Prime-Kote on the topsides, with bottom faired and ready for bottom paint (or barrier coat - no frowns out there please)...

The Froon

My issue was gaining access to the underside of the poop deck in order to attach backing plates, etc.; fortunately I have an engine well that could accommodate an access hatch... http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_uNptt3G1rKQ/S-ilSckLF6I/AAAAAAAAAX0/eHuJPROKF8E/s400/Engine+Well+2.JPG http://4.bp.blogspot.com...

The Froon

....18 hours across three days, 15 sheets of 60 grit paper....to get the "tight" spots....sometimes you just got grin and bear it.

Brian

The Froon

There are far more experienced salts here than me, but I thought I would pass on my two cents as I am currently priming my Sea Sprite 23 with primekote - in preperation for perfection. It would behoove you to follow the product directions as closely as possible, and aside from those directions: - th...

The Froon

Thanks, Chuck. I started priming the topsides of my Sea Sprite 23 recently, and the first coat of primer I decided to roll and tip. I am using the Interlux PrimeKote product, but got poor results from the first application, Interlux tech reps said that generally primers don't respond well to the rol...

The Froon

Chuck, can you describe your paint application and specific product? ...process?

Thanks,

Brian

The Froon

After countless hours getting the hull to what I thought was perfection, I primed with Interlux Prime-Kote....and boy, I missed a lot of cracks and voids. What a lesson I learned here...just get it "roughly" fair, then prime...the imperfections will make themselves visible! Here is the fir...

The Froon

Just took a drive down to the Sailor's Exchange ( St. Augustine ) last
week...it is worth a walk through.

Brian

The Froon

I am ready to strike a new line marking the transition from antifouling paint to topsides paint, and will later come back for a boottop as well. I plan on using a method described by Tim in the re-striking of his lines on Glissando. I will create two structures, both astern and at the bow with a hor...

The Froon

Chris, I have attempted to contact him a few times myself over the last couple of months, as I am just north of his last known anchorage, but I have not had a reply from him.

Brian
Jacksonville, FL

The Froon

Quoting Catepillar Tractor Company's 'Marine Engines Application and Installation Guide'... The causes of linear vibrations can usually be identified by determining if: 1. The vibration amplitudes increase with the speed. If so, they are probably caused by centrifugal forces' bending components of t...

The Froon

Very nice. Could you supply some more pics (interior) of the installation? I will be undertaking a similiar project.

Rgds,

Brian

The Froon

Thanks, TIm. I am going to give this method / product selection a shot since I have already purchased. I spoke to Pettit, and they recommneded a slight scuffing of the tie-coat primer with 220 prior to application of their easypoxy product - not sure if you had done this through your use of the prod...

The Froon

I understand the technique for filling in unwanted holes (old tapped or rivetted hardware) on an aluminum boom (or mast) is to fill with thickened epoxy. As I approach this project, in my mind I am seeing no way to prevent the thickened epoxy from sagging into the interior of the boom itself...and p...

The Froon

Looks to be a Pearson Commander...and quite an undertaking for a brave soul.

The Froon

Does anyone see an issue here with the paint being sprayed without breathing protection?

The Froon

Looks good; congrats! ....just get that motor mount off the stern!

The Froon

There is a great foam pad that accepts adhesive backed sanding discs available at the McMaster-Carr site:

www.mcmaster.com

...the pad has a loop on the back to slip around the back of your hand. Good stuff for finish sanding.

Brian

The Froon

Brian, I have read through the thread, and see a lot of plywood material suggestions...so, I do not feel bad about launching a tangent... When you line the space between hull and bulkhead, a few questions arise: What is the material used - product name, description? What thickness is the material? H...

The Froon

Very nice! Reminds me a lot of the Bristol 24 (Corsair), but with a shallower draft.

Congrats!

The Froon

Hey Zach,

...post a picture of Margaret will ya? I need a new centerfold for the wall!

-Brian

The Froon

Chris: Hey, I feel your pain...or should I say humidity! I am in Jacksonville, and dealing with losing pounds through perspiration. Late last summer, I began grinding off the years upon years of bottom paint on a late model Sea Sprite 23 (#217)...in full tyvek!!! Yeah, I was soaked when I emerged fr...

The Froon

Bly, I also have a Sea Sprite (hull 217, see blog), and am currently restoring it. I have noticed that my chain plates are glassed in, but notice no real issue with water intrusion. I do plan to seal the chain plates gaps...polysulfide or a slightly raised epoxy base around the chain plate. My thoug...

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