Plastic Classic Forum

deckhand

haven't touched white oak since I became addicted to black locust. terrific wood that is very reasonable to purchase

deckhand

One of the advantages of the horribly wasteful metrocard system in New York City is that there is always a huge pile of "reusable" metrocards at the turnstiles. I discovered the wonders of this completely impermiable, everything resistant material when I was doing lots of silk screening. n...

deckhand

The heart of the plan is in the right place but for $90 grand I'd be looking into something like this with 15 grand left over some serious upgrades... Also Ray, restoring a boat isn't as easy as saying it (ie: there is no such thing as an "inexpensive" restoration be it time or money...) ....

deckhand

if you already have a solid sole and just want the teak and holly look you might want to consider some extra thick veneer. Check out these guys http://www.certainlywood.com/woodmenu2.cfm?p=7 At one time they had some very reasonably priced teak at 1/8" thick, right now they have one of the maho...

deckhand

I second the belt sander quickie sharpen. I have a tiny little 36" belt sander that lives in the boat (bigger jobs call for the 3 hp monster in the shop), with an 80 grit belt and a cup of water you're good to go. Love my messed up chisels for spooge mistakes. another great thing on tabbing is ...

deckhand

I was hoping to make my "red" sail a removable asym spinnaker via the cdi spinnaker furler. The orange sail would be my current roller genny and the green would be a storm inner forestay (though it's going to take some interesting dinghy design). I was nervous about the spinnaker idea too ...

deckhand

typos rock. Got to wonder how many new words start out as typos

deckhand

Wow, this forum started just in time. I finished drawing up some plans, and was about to post them in another section when I noticed this one. perfect.

There are more comments about it on the site post.

deckhand

ah boiled owl, I mean locust! I had looked into that a while back for toe rails and was saddened that I couldn't get long lengths. Might do the trick for the sole stringers. After reading a bunch of Binghame and Mate this weekend I realize just how much good wood they put into unseen spaces. The abu...

deckhand

Hmmm, cypress, hadn't actually considered it. $3 a bf is very reasonable so I think I'll be taking a look. How does if finish bright (color, grain, consistancy) as I've never worked with it. Thanks for the heads up.

deckhand

heartofgold: I agree that naturally rot resistant woods are best but they come with a pricetag that makes me sad to encase them in epoxy and put them under the floor boards... I guess if its available and affordable, sure, but otherwise I try to find alternatives. I also like to find responsibly har...

deckhand

With the replacement of my my sole (heh...) coming up, I've been sourcing materials to make my stringers out of. Any thoughts on KDAT (kiln dried after treatment) pressure treated wood? I planned on encapsulating the beams in epoxy but the idea that they are rot proof is an interesting one. Eats all...

deckhand

now you just need knurled stainless timing knobs and a nice big red numeral readout with the frequency. hmmm...

deckhand

I know it's not traditional but what about 2 part clear poly? Wipe the teak down with acetone first and put on top. I've been wanting to give the west systems water based 2 packs a try but have yet to borrow my friends Fuji pro hvlp. Some report it not having the warmness of the traditional varnish ...

deckhand

the difference between this home-built and the air powered monsters is that it weighs a lot less and has a flexible board. The body shop inline's I've seen also draw a lot of juice (by way of a huge compressor). True my little cobble job gets the arms tingling but man, I was able to finally fair my ...

deckhand

My long boarding days are over.

Check it out

deckhand

At these fairly high prices I'm suprised that no one has suggested this yet... make them. its all thin guage stainless, just pick up a medium powered mig welder (its sheet so mig will be great), some air powered metal nips, and a compressor if you don't have one. Even at onlinemetals.com fairly expe...

deckhand

I remember reading about "Dove" in an old National Geographic. This sounds similar but has much more the feel of a media circus. I just hope that he makes it ok, they loaded that boat up with so much crap that he's liable to get lost in the plumbing! "Excuse me self, but have you seen...

deckhand

lost foam fiberglass? I've worked in lost foam metal casting using the ceramic shell method but I've never heard of it being used for fiberglass. Unless it just refers to making a part around a die and melting the die out with solvent of some type after its finished. hmm interesting. As for the open...

deckhand

Rachel - I had to put the project on hold and face the mighty $ (working during the winter). Luckily the time has come to get back to the project. I'm going to see Hobyn this weekend for the first time since November! Expect to see updates very soon. The link and site are working fine, maybe you hav...

deckhand

Another t-30! Thought I was the only one. You're lucky about the sole, I have the nasty looking cork version (not that it matters, the whole sole is getting cut out this summer) I'd clean it out really well and stick it back down with slightly thickened epoxy (after painting the veneer with unthicke...

deckhand

I also use these guys for epoxy and glass: http://www.jgreer.com/ I bought my first 5 gallons from this guy. Either it was a bad batch or it was too hot out but I couldn't get this stuff to thicken up at all. I was mixing in colloidal silica to the point that it became more like lumpy almost set ce...

deckhand

I pretty much only buy from these guys now. I posted something about making my own quick fair with their medium epoxy and fairing powder a year ago, you can also see how it worked out on my site. Ive used their medium and fast cure hardeners (for almost winter work) and have not had a problem. Cheap...

deckhand

this past summer I raced on a Morgan 36 Nelson Marek design. Great boat with a ton of winches, pretty much all of which were from when the boat was built, 1984. The 4 primaries were of this weird diameter and there were only a could of equally weird handles that would fit it. The problem was that th...

deckhand

Are you planning on making the chainplates external or keeping them internal but further out?

Otherwise, I think it sounds solid.

deckhand

I finally closed up the project for the winter. Putting up shrink wrap was much easier than I thought, seems like pretty beefy stuff too.

part 1

and

part 2

deckhand

Jeeze guys! Let's not be so harsh. The owner has obviously loved this boat and is having a difficult time parting with it! I think "loved" is a pretty strong word judging by the condition of the craft. A more appropriate replacement might be "sat on" as in "The owner has ob...

deckhand

That gauge set up looks great but for the cost of that monitor ($200) you might as well just get a completely translucent poly tank ($100). It would cost less, have completely fool proof level reading, and not rely on electricity. Don't get me wrong, I love my gauges, but on things like engine temp ...

deckhand

sounds like a rip off for a couple of pieces of sheared and bent 12 guage stainless welded or bolted to piece of rod. A welder would probably charge you 10 bucks for that 1 weld if you came up with all the parts. That top piece looks like it could be reused.

deckhand

make small (1/2" wide or less) strip from top to bottom completely out of fiberglass. It would be transparent and let you see the level in the tank. Simple and fool proof. The other way to do an electronic-less gauge is plumb in a piece of clear tubing into the bottom of the tank and let it run...

deckhand

bilge coat isn't really an epoxy, you can't have a one part epoxy. It's like calling single part urethane and linear urethanes equal. I just thought using raw epoxy would be a cost effective way to get a nice hard, cheap bilge paint. I can see how the "runs" could be an issue, but it'll do...

deckhand

After reading the post about the Bilgekote and realizing that I'm in somewhat of a similar position (my bilge is very much RAW at this point) I had an idea. Why not combine cheap pigments and epoxy for what I can only imagine would be the ultimate bilge sealing paint? There's no UV issues here (it w...

deckhand

for those familiar with adobe illustrator and who only want a 2d system (with the ability to do isometric as well but not true 3d) you might want to take a look at hotdoor's cadtools. I use this program all the time for doing things like taking an image, making a scale to go with the image and figur...

deckhand

See I couldn't do that to myself. I need the winter. The cold forces me to put down the epoxy, stow the grinder, and get into money making mode. Getting an amazing shop space like that would throw off the natural order of things. Boats need to eat...

(all that aside... awesome space)

deckhand

I did just that today. I also made a sharper edge on my spreader. It took a few passes but its now nice and smooth. It'll take minimal sanding to get it perfect. Now its time do do the other side...

deckhand

I made a form and I'm squeegeeing the fairing putty on the boat with a profile shaped pull. the problem is that the putty develops voids and wants to pull itself off the hull. I'm going to give it a light sanding and a wash. Pictures later

deckhand

does epoxy fairing compound NEED to be sanded before you put on another layer or can it just be "scrubbed". My compound has lots of tiny pits and I really don't want to sand it all down. what says you guys.

deckhand

I forgot the camera today so I didn't take any images. Heres a diagram to illustrate.

deckhand

Did you by chance take any pictures? damn, I don't think I took any pics of the glassed up joint. I'll snap some pics of the joint with the glass with fairing compound over it . I started replacing the joint because of the extensive repairs to the stbd joint amidships. When I got the boat it was ba...

deckhand

I just finished my deck joint overhaul. I have the shoe-box style joint with some sort of mastic and stainless bolts every 3-4". The joint was then packed solid with gel coat and the stainless rub rail was screwed in over that. I took off the rub rail, ground out the gel coat, stripped the gel ...

deckhand

fiberglass sheets from home depot would work well too. Smooth on one side, bumpy on the other and $24 ish for a 4x10(I think). They have them in stock for use in showers and bathroom installations.

deckhand

"And just for a cost reference, a new rig from my boatyards rigging shop would set you back about $1200-1400. This includes all new wire, new turnbuckles, forks and eyes and all necessary swages (hydraulic). Naturally mechanical fittings will increase the price." wow thats really good, I c...

deckhand

I talked with the guys at Hayn while I was at the show and got a chance to install a Hi-Mod myself. I think the easiest way to put the stay-loc to hi-mod comparison is that stay-loc could be called "version 1" and hi-mod "version 2". They both work well but the Hi-Mod is the new ...

deckhand

I was at the sailboat show in Annapolis MD this past weekend and among other things noticed that there wasn't a single boat in production that had a visible or even hidden deck joint! Now we're talking everything from Bene's and Catalinas to Morris' and new Tartans. They were all glass together and ...

deckhand

Now that I've heard more, I agree that a flexible would be a better move. I'd just make sure the corroded holes aren't too sharp.

deckhand

what exactly is the advantage of the bladder? I understand using one as temporary liquid storage that can be folded away when its used up, but since it's going inside a tank what's the point? If you can get a bladder tank into that area you can probably get a paint brush full of epoxy too. Then agai...

deckhand

Looking good! Can't wait to get to that stage, heck, I can't wait to finish this deck joint!

deckhand

I think it really does depend on the cross section of the bond. I'm about 1/4 of the way through completely redoing my deck joints on my T30 and I chose fiberglass and epoxy. Why? From what I gathered about my old joint it was fiberglassed AND 5200ed. What time showed me was that the shrank a bit an...

deckhand

Good call on the POR-15. Great stuff, used prime bike frames with it. What's nice about their products is that they convert the visible rust to something a bit more stable (yes I know, technically iron oxide is the most stable form for iron alloys) to prevent further rusting and etch the surface for...

deckhand

basically, wood working blades for circular types of saws will work as long as they are carbide toothed and you go slow. However, if you want the cleanest straight cuts you should get a plastic/laminates blade. Most carbide teeth look like this || while every other tooth on a plastic blade will look...

Plastic Classic Forum

Search found 59 matches

Double headsail / asym off a bowsprit

KDAT wood for sole stringers

the FairMaster

Covering up for the winter.

white colored epoxy instead of paint

epoxy recoat question

The death of the deck joint?