new seacocks

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margitchris
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new seacocks

Post by margitchris »

After much saving, salivating, and soul searching, my laden box of bronze from Jamestown Distributors arrived yesterday.
Question #1 the new Apollos are so stiff I can't move the handles without some sort of mechanical advantage. Should/can they be lubed ( not with graphite) ? Can they be made easier to operate?

Question #2 Apollo says lubrication is not needed. Are they relying on water to lube them?

Question #3 I have found conflicting information about "exercising" seacocks. Everyone says do it, but some suggest there is a line beyond which is too much. If I close and open a seacock every time I use the boat, is that too much? I would prefer to keep things like engine cooling water intake and head intake and discharge closed when not needed.
Thanks for the help.
rescuesailor
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Re: new seacocks

Post by rescuesailor »

It has been my experience with ball or taper type valves that dirt and grit are what causes most of the problems. If the ball or taper is teflon, grit can and will cause grooves in the ball very easily. Bronze will do the same over time. These grooves will allow the valve to leak. Any grease type lubricate will attract dirt and probally do more harm over time than good. In the Fire Service we have used dish soap for years to lubricate our pumps and ball valves. The soap not only washes away the grit but the surfactant lubricates the ball. Not really a feasible thing to do in a boat while in the water, but maybe it would help prior to the install. Simply place the valves in a five gallon bucket with soapy water and allow them to soak. Move the valve from open to close and see if it frees them up somewhat. If your valves have a taper or cone shaped device used as the medium to open or close, there is usually a nut on the opposite side from the handle. Try backing the nut off slightly. This will allow the valve to operate more easily. Don't back it off too much or the valve will leak. Hope this helps. Remember that using a cheater on your valves once installed can be pretty scary if you cause a failure!
David
John, CD28
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Re: new seacocks

Post by John, CD28 »

I've installed a bunch of Apollo ball valve seacocks over the years - just put a new 1-1/2" in my boat last week.

1) Yes, they're stiff as a bugger when new, nearly impossible to flip the handle if the valve is not bolted down. Once installed, they are slightly easier to operate.
2) I put a little trailer wheel bearing grease on both sides of the ball before installation, helps a little 'till the seats wear in. They don't wear in much, and the larger versions of these valves (1-1/2") will never be easy to operate. I think the seats are teflon, so they don't really need lubrication, but I find a little waterproof grease helps early on.
3) It would take many years to wear them out by opening/closing them each time you visit the boat. I close all of mine (except the scuppers) when I leave the boat overnight.

The good part is they are so tough to open/close that after a few seasons with your new valves you'll have arms like a Viking rowing champion.

Good Luck!
John
Sailing involves the courage to treasure adventure, and the wisdom to fear danger. Knowing where one ends, and the other begins, makes all the difference.
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earlylight
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Re: new seacocks

Post by earlylight »

Having installed a few of them I agree with John. One nice thing is that you will never have an engine cooling intake seacock vibrate closed causing damage from accidental overheating.
Dick Coerse
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Solomons MD

http://earlylight160.net76.net
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