False keel

[windrose]

Like many of the old Tritons, #215 has been improperly handled and has suffered a crack all along the bottom of the false keel. (The two times the boat has been hauled by "professionals", in the short time I have owned her, they have had her slung wrong.... last time I had to argue with the manager of the yard to get her set up properly). Anyway.... the crack was there when I got her....traded a Catalina 22 and a little cash for my good ol boat and am still sure I got the better of the "deal". I do admit to some buyers remorse a few times this summer when everyone was sailing and I was scraping 40 years of grunge and literally wearing out an orbital sander. However, she will be right before another sailing season comes to the Bay.... I hope!!!!!!!!

I have since taken a grinder and actually opened the crack up so the parts would meet back in there orginal position. The plan is to glass several layers of heavy cloth then actually drill a hole and backfill with some resin.

Two questions.... should I be concerned about how much heat the resin is going to give off when I pour it inside the false keel... the last thing I want is to catch the ol gal on fire. If memory serves me correctly, I can use epoxy with styrofoam but polyester will melt it....correct?

Next...seems anytime the yard hauls her they do so improperly and there may be sometime that I can not supervise the goons. SO....what about putting a strip of stainless down the bottom to disperse the weight. I read about a guy over on the MIR pages that had used a T bar but am having a hard time figureing out how he connected it to the foot. What if I simply got it in place and glassed the heck out of it and then backfilled with the epoxy? Do you think simply backfilling with resin would stiffen the area enough to give some structural integrity to the false keel?

Photos would be greatly appreciated..... thanks again for all the help. Really pushing for a spring launch date. OK, OK... so maybe I DO have more than two questions. AAARRRRGH!!!
Ang

[Tim]

.... should I be concerned about how much heat the resin is going to give off when I pour it inside the false keel...

Yes, you do need to be concerned about the heat. How much you should be concerned depends on how much resin you're going to pour in there, but don't underestimate the amount of heat that an inch or more of resin--any type--will produce during curing.

Frankly, though, I don't see any real benefit to doing that step. Raw resin (any mixture that's pourable) is brittle and won't add any real strength to the keel. If I were you (and I was in the same position once--see photos and read about my repairs here), I'd open up the joint from the outside and stuff in as much heavily-thickened epoxy (use some chopped glass or plastic mini fibers, plus cabosil) as I could from the outside. A syringe or caulking tube might work well, but you probably only need your fingers and a putty knife. You can even cut some larger openings with a drill bit or some such if you want. Then, press the two sides of the keel back together and clamp it. This will help glue the crack together and seal the joint before you continue. Unless you're able to get some inordinately huge amount of fill in there, you probably won't have excess heat problems with this method.

Then, I'd continue as you have planned: glass over the entire bottom of the keel, covering the seam and reinforcing it. I don't see any real benefit to adding a piece of stainless or metal down there; you'll be better off just glassing it. Glass is strong, of course, and you can add layers to your heart's content if you want. You really don't need that much to make the area significantly stronger than it ever was before. If you use a heavy biax cloth, three layers would be super-strong. I'd extend the first layer at least a foot up each side of the keel, and then extend each subsequent layer several inches more. Doing thusly will greatly reinforce the entire false keel setup, as well as repair the crack in the bottom.

Then, just make sure you're at the yard when she's hauled again (I can't imagine ever having some yard monkeys touch my boat without me being there), and also make it clear how you want it strapped or blocked--some standing instructions in the office and in your file seem like they'd be in order here. It's your boat, and you have to stand up for what's right. Yard guys can be idiots. Make your needs clear, and ensure the instructions are followed, and/or well documented; then, if the yard ignores you, it's their ultimate problem. You should still avoid blocking or straps beneath the false keel, but if you reinforce it you should be OK. It's likely that the crack and weakness well preceded the recent yard moves, as most of the false keel-equipped Tritons I have seen have these cracks, some more severe than others.

[windrose]

Thanks Tim, sounds like I am on the right track. Yes, the crack was a "pre-existing" condition. I have done all the prep you suggested.... I ground the area open where the parts would clamp back in the original positon and actually opened it up so I can stick the end of my finger in it to about the knuckle. I suppose I am ready to proceed with the epoxy and filler and follow with the cloth.... only three layers? I will get the bi-axial you recommend and push forward.

By the way, congratulations on your new "old boat".... she is really going to be a looker.... beautiful sheer... one of the many things I love about the Triton.

What are your thoughts on glassing the rudder. Mine has contracted along the seam but I think this would swell tight once back in the water or should I lay up some cloth on it while I am working on the keel?

Thanks again. Ang

[dasein668]

What are your thoughts on glassing the rudder. Mine has contracted along the seam but I think this would swell tight once back in the water or should I lay up some cloth on it while I am working on the keel?

I would say: don't do it! These old mahogany rudders hold up amazingly well. They do tend to shrink a bit when they dry out, but as you say, they will swell right up again when they get wet. They've lasted 40 years this way, and I think glassing it over is just asking for trouble. Mine was glassed over and there were some cracks in the glass when I got her?just imagine getting that water in there and then having the rudder not be able to dry. Yuck.

[Tim]

What are your thoughts on glassing the rudder. Mine has contracted along the seam but I think this would swell tight once back in the water or should I lay up some cloth on it while I am working on the keel?

Don't do it! I can think of no situation where glassing a solid wood rudder is a good thing. If the boards are in decent shape, but have only the normal gaps between them, they leave it alone--it will be fine once it swells up again.

If the boards are in bad shape, glassing will only hide the problem and not help.

.... only three layers? I will get the bi-axial you recommend and push forward.

You can add as many layers as you feel comfortable with, but if you use the 22 oz. biax cloth, three layers is very strong and quite thick. You might want to use more of a lighter material--and again, you can put on as many layers as you want, really.

The newer cloths (like biax) are much stronger for a given weight than old fashioned roving. You need less for the same or better strength.

Good luck with the repair!

[windrose]

Thanks Guys, no glass on the rudder!