Bronzework / Machine Shop

[Jeremy]

My tiller has considerable play - 48 years have taken their toll on the bronze tiller hardware, resulting in elongated holes in the bronze tiller fitting that attaches to the bronze head to the rudder shaft. (I'll try to post a photo later). Bushings installed previously failed to remedy the problem.

I'm thinking that if the holes are drilled larger (and true), and bushing inserted (perhaps welded) to reduce the size to fit the bolt, that should remedy the situation.

Anyone able to recommend a machine shop, preferably one in New England with experience with bronze, to handle this?

[Hirilondë]

Mystic Stainless does very nice work with bronze. Welding, shaping, fabricating and machining are all done. Charlie isn't cheap, but does great work.

[Rachel]

Charlie isn't cheap, but does great work.

Can't beat that for real, lasting value though :) I'm always encouraged to hear of another good craftsperson (still) around.

[Jeremy]

Perfect! Just what I'm looking for.

[Zach]

If a color match isn't important anyone with a tig welder or gas welding torch can make the repair... Silicone bronze off the shelf is a brighter yellow than the copper colored everdur used on a lot of old boats.

A shop has to do a lot of bronze to warrant purchasing 10lbs of 651...

Run a larger diameter drill bit into the hole to put a chamfer on it so you can get into the depth... get it hot and start welding. The weld puddle is different from steel or aluminum, a small bright spot that doesn't go shiny... The huge amount of copper in the bronze radiates a lot of heat, so at a relatively high amp setting you have to get the part hot before it takes a weld that penetrates.

I've done a few repairs on castings with wallowed out holes. The biggest thing I can suggest is to use a smooth shouldered bolt through both casting ears and don't let the threads carry the load.

If you must thread bronze thinner than a 1/4 inch, heli-coil it right off the bat if it is subject to load or calibrated elbow assembly practices.

Strangely enough, the art department at a local college will yield folks experienced in welding bronze and copper... might be something a case of beer can fix....

Zach

[Jeremy]

Just got the parts back from Mystic Stainless yesterday. They did a very nice job. Thanks for the reference. Bit pricy - but I didn't feel I had the time to devote to finding a suitable art student!.

[bigd14]

I had a similar issue. I took the tiller cap and rudder to a machine shop. They welded the holes in the rudder post, then milled it round (it was SS pipe, a notoriously non-round material). Then they milled the rudder cap and pressed a sleeve inside it that was a tight fit to the rudder post. Then re-drilled the through bolt hole. They went way beyond what was necessary (I had only wanted them to weld and redrill the hole in the rudder post which had egged out). These guys were used to tight tolerances in the automotive industry. I told them I didn't want to pay for all the unnecessary work they had done when all I had asked for was a simple hole to be patched and redrilled, so eventually they reduced the price by half. This was still too much but I wanted my rudder and tiller cap back! The good news is that rudder cap will never loosen up again! There is just no play in it for wear to get started.

Doug