Link 20 shunt cabling or "How did it work right before?

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Ronin120
Rough Carpentry Apprentice
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Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 1:19 pm
Location: Northern Neck, Virginia
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Link 20 shunt cabling or "How did it work right before?

Post by Ronin120 »

The discussion about the 6-volt battery cabling reminded me that I had a question for the folks here about my ongoing re-wiring project.

Some time back I was perusing the web pages detailing a Triton rebuild by someone who shall remain nameless but does happen to run a really great forum on rebuilding old boats, and as I was looking at a jpeg of some negative battery cable from the negative busbar I realized that I may have 1.) wired my old Link 20 incorrectly (no surprise...) and that while doing a new wiring diagram 2.) designed that error right back into the new system. No surprise again.

In the photo the shunt had a battery cable from the shunt to the house load ground busbar. There was another battery cable from the other end of the busbar that went, I assuming, to the boat ground.

That isn't how I had wired my old system. But after reviewing the instructions from Xantrex, nee Link, it is as they say, "ALL ground loads go on this side of the shunt" and that is what I have modified my wiring diagram to do.

Anyway, too much verbiage. I made a previous and prior version of my wiring diagram, converted it to pdf and then a jpeg and loaded them into my web-site. Toggling between the two will show the new proposed negative cabling for the house load busbar, the shunt and the engine ground. The proposed changes are shown in red, along with some text. These can be found by clicking on the Wave Man link in my signature info, then clicking on the Photos link in the upper right.

If you have a moment, take a look. Tell me what you think.

Best
Dave
1982 C&C 37 - under reconstruction
1988 Mako 26 CC - don't laugh, it needs work too.
1970's vintage Snipe
1970 Islander 37 - sold
1968 Cal 25 - sold but still racing...

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Popeye1865
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Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2008 5:23 pm

Post by Popeye1865 »

Either way works depending on position of your Eng. and Batt. one way may be easier. Xantrex just wants you to keep any neg. load that you put on the bat to go thru the shunt so so you should only have one jumper from the correct side of the shunt to the neg. terminal on the batt. once your out of the shunt it doesn't care how you make the rest of the wiring as long as your not pulling over something like 500A
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