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As part of my rip out, the old bunks dissapeared (all the fibreglass was splitting etc) so i need to put in some new ones, they will be tabbed in for extra stiffness etc.
Does anyone recommend the best method for this? The boat isn't level and getting it that ways not practical so a spirit level is out, recomendations about material thickness and framing etc much appreciated.
On the port side its full length from the aft bulkhead to the lazarette to the main bulkhead... L shape. The starboard side goes from the bulkhead aft but stops a way before the main bulkhead to give room for the galley.
A problem im thinking on is the best way to tab the bottom of the bunk sides into the hull, i want to do this to maintain dry storage in the lockers (in case of water in the bilge) however (shown in pics) there are stringers to reinforce the keel and hull and they would have to be cut around these so to speak.
Any advice from people who have already done this much appreciated!
Re: leveling: ascertain what boat level is as compared to spirit level, then make a wedge to tape to the level. Might need two and of course, you have to remember which way the wedge faces.
Re: tabbing to uneven substrate: it's just a bit tougher. Fitting is not really a problem if the aesthetics are concealed. If the joint is under the sole then fit to within 1/4 or even more, coat out the bunk face bottom edge, tab adequately, fill the offending gap w/ your filled resin of choice. I filled close to 3/4" when I retabbed the old, slightly rot-damaged bunk face back into the M 27 after replacing the rotted plywood sole with fiberglass: neatly filleted and painted. Looked fine and behaved for the 10 remaining years we had that boat.
Re: materials: our 38' Lecomte's tabbed-in bulkheads etc are entirely 1/2" Makore faced mahogany core plywood; bunk tops are variously 1/2" or 1/4" plywood depending upon span. The M 27's bulkheads and most bunk and settees are 3/4" melamine-faced fir; shorter span bunks are 1/2" fir. The LeComte's furniture was not thought of as load-bearing (but does); the Morgans' was definitely intended as load bearing.
Re: 'dry' storage: The Morgan was decidedly never going to be dry; I arranged for limber holes through the new tabbing The Lecomte typically has light, 3/16" thick plywood liners within most of the storage spaces including under bunks. Stray water flows down the hull behind the liners.
The interior surface of the hull will inevitably be wet, if only from occasional condensation. I used 'Enkadrain' to space bladder tanks off the hull. Prevented trapped water and damage to the bladders. Enkadrain might serve to keep damp-sensitive stuff away from the hull but it's usually sold faced with a Typar-like non-woven geotextile filter fabric.
Why can't you level the boat? You'll save yourself a lot of headache through the whole building process if you can accomplish that. Maybe there's a good reason why you can't (I can't imagine one, so please fill us in) but you really should anyway. It's challenging enough to build a boat interior without the added complexity of the absence of the most basic of positioning criteria.
You shouldn't be concerned about tabbing your bulkheads along the bottom and the stringers and other obstructions. You'll simply need to scribe the bulkhead (or, ideally, a cardboard template thereof, which you use to get the fit correct before cutting the actual plywood) to allow you to make cutouts that will slip over the offending structural members. Then just fillet and tab over and around those areas as you would any other area, and, done correctly, will isolate the space from your bilge and the water contained therein.
Note that hot melt glue guns are of great help in tacking new materials, templates, or braces temporarily in position while you work, or to hold things while you fillet and tab.
One way to keep locker contents away from the inevitable condensation-type moisture that tends to form is to line your lockers with the inexpensive plastic material sold everywhere as high-traffic carpet runners. The little plastic nubs on the bottom (which are designed to dig into the carpet) hold the material off the hull, providing a path for air and moisture and keeping the locker contents elevated. It works well, is easy, and inexpensive. Still, it's best to never count on any uninsulated, direct-against-the hull locker to be 100% dry.
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Hmm, i might be able to get the boat level, its on some uneven ground and i don't know if i have enough adjustment in the trailer... i'll give it a blast!
Would you build a framework and attach the bunk sides and top to it, and then tab in, or would you use the sides and tops themselves as there own framework?
Use concrete blocks and shims to level the boat and trailer as a unit. Much better than trying to level the boat itself, and gives a nice stable platform to work from.
My current project is on a cradle on a trailer, and I at first leveled it with the water line, but noticed nothing would drain completely. So I leveled everything out, set up some reference marks, then raised the bow while making sure I kept level side to side. That way I can use a level across, and use a string tied between the reference marks fore and aft while still having good drainage. It's important because zoning won't let me build a shed here.
Ok my current thoughts on this. (Now that i am almost at the stage to do it!
On the port side with the L-Berth i am going to use the compression post as a datum for getting everything square and level.
First of all i will affix some horizontal cleatstock on the bulkhead at the level of where i want the top of the bunks to be, (making sure its level etc)
From this using the bulkhead as my frame of reference i will extend some framework that i will use to align the sides of the bunks. A
After the sides of the bunks have been glassed in, i can then remove the framework. Finally i can fit the top of the bunks.
For the starboard side, i will first put in the mini bulkhead for the galley, (starboard side) and then follow the same process for putting in the bunk as the portside one.
From what i can see i have roughly the same interior space as the tritons you all seem to have but because i can't put the galley next to the companionway (because it would block off my quarter berth space) i have to put it forward which makes the cabin look smaller, but i am slighly beamier so i can get away with the L shaped berth.
Does anyone have any thoughts on the proccess i have laid out for fitting the bunks.
Using existing installations as your datum is a good way to to. Often, though, you'll find that these existing installations aren't symmetrical, plumb, square, or level. If they are, then you are ahead of the game; if not, then you must choose whether to build your new installations straight/square etc. with the existing, or whether to go level/plumb with the new and deal with slight inconsistencies where the areas meet.
Usually one way or another is the clearly right choice in terms of function or visual appearance. You'll find things fall into place clearly enough once you get going.
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