Triton deadlight frames

[Figment]

Hey all.

Fixing the leaking deadlights finally made the top of the list. I bought the butyl tape from a windshield shop, bought some sacrificial screws and washers for compressing it all together, etc... A fairly uneventful process, though it did feel stupid to be reinstalling the cloudy yellowed plexiglass.

Here's the thing (there's always a thing, no?).... a PO had evidently tried to fix the leaks by cranking down harder on the frame screws, and I now have a few stripped holes. I was unaware of this because the screws were cosmetically glued in place with silicone! I got a good laugh out of that one. Anyway, my two imagined fixes for this are:

1) Drill through and use a longer screw and an acorn nut on the outside. The locations are at corners, so I could possibly make this look less goofy by making a consistent look at all corners. Offhand, I don't know of a source for bronze acorn nuts, but they've gotta be out there.

2) Tapping the existing hole to the next larger screw size (1/4x20) won't work, I think, because there won't be sufficient depth in the hole to cut the threads deep enough. I could possibly drill through, cut threads all the way through, use a long screw, and cut and file the screw end flush with the outer frame. This will be the less visible option, but will require some finesse with the dremel.

Any votes for either of the above, or alternative suggestions?

Thanks, gang.

-MH

[Dave, 397]

Fig--
You can buy helicoil-type inserts down to some ridiculously small sizes, and I believe that includes these...you might check into it. If there is not a good commercial/industrial hardware jobber near you, you might check McMaster-Carr and Grainger Industrial catalogs/websites. A helicoil job, nproperly excecuted, will allow you to stay with the same size screw and is actually stronger than the original threads.
Dave

[David]

Check the Loctite site. I used the product with mixed success (IOW you have to be very careful using it).

On a similar subject: I have used Lexan to replace the portlights in my boat and I am very disappointed with the amount of hazing and scratches as compared to acrylic. Has anyone else had a similar experience with Lexan?

[James384]

I drilled out the original blind bolts, countersunk the outside frame to take 1/4" ss flathead bolts (machine screws, if you prefer) and put the cap nut on the inside. This is stronger than tapping into the frame and if you use lexan you won't need storm shutters then. And no, properly bedded, the bolts don't leak.

James B

[Dave, 397]

The lexan problem....

It's worth mention that Lexan (generically "polycarbonate") comes in two flavors. Regular old Lexan/Polycarb does scratch pretty easily. The problem is not near as pronounced with Lexan II, or "tempered polycarbonate". Sort of like having a pair of plastic-lensed eyeglasses with or without the scratch-coat. I've seen the tempered stuff hold up pretty well on fishboats, so if it can last there it certainly ought to take care of us! I've also had the non-tempered stuff pick up scratches in the process of cutting and heat-forming it, with the paper still on! This happened with some generic stuff, but we did not have it happen with the "real thing" like that. For anything that's going to get beat on, though, the tempered material is what the makers will recommend--with good reason.

As an aside, I have found really super prices on polycarb materials by going to a large plastics fabrication shop and supply house in Seattle called Laird Plastics. They seel the offcut material by the pound (!) at a very good price. I'd imagine this is probably a common practice, and when you consider the size of some of the things these outfits make, you can also see how large this offcut stock can be!

Best,
Dave

[Tim]

I've had little problem with Lexan scratching in my own application. Sure, there are some very fine scratches visible but hardly anything to write home about. I feel this is yet another one of those wives' tales that has been somewhat blown out of proportion through the usual grapevines. Oh, note that I use Comet to clean my decks. No, it doesn't hurt anything, though I do typically use a sponge and liquid soap to clean the varnish and Awlgrip/ports, but I'm also not afraid if the brush should touch them either. I think you all know that I kind of like my boat and don't go out of my way to be destructive, so... :<)

When/if the Lexan I have should ever become too scratched, I'll simply replace it. When I need to rebed the deadlights, I'll probably choose to replace the Lexan as well, just for convenience of circumstance--unless the material is perfect. Even if one can't find a source for acceptable offcuts, seconds, scrounged materials, etc., the cost is hardly going to crush the kitty. And there are undoubtedly any number of potential free/low cost opportunities for this stuff. Most of use have, at one time or another, found these sorts of sources.