It's about time to start reassembling Miranda. Most of the hardware is bronze with a very green patina. Is there any reason to clean it first? If so, what is the right way to polish it?
The genoa tracks are also in need of reannodizing. Good Old Boat has an article on doing it yourself. Anyone ever try it? They are in decent shape otherwise. The only guy I can find locally has a $100 minimum and doesn't have the ability to sandblast or clean them up first.
Any advice is appreciated.
Bly
Restoring bronze/aluminum hardware
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Figment
- Damned Because It's All Connected
- Posts: 2846
- Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2003 9:32 am
- Boat Name: Triton
- Boat Type: Grand Banks 42
- Location: L.I. Sound
Learn to love the patina.
There are many methods for cleaning and polishing bronze, but it can become a real "tar baby"if you have a dozen or so bits spread throughout the boat, and life is just too short. A somewhat sane practice is to chose one or two bits of bronze (the samson post, or a pair of winches, etc.) that you'll fastidiously clean and quick-polish every week or two, and just let nature take its course on the rest.
Remember that the patina is actually a naturally-produced protective coating.
I haven't tried the DIY anodizing process, but I've seen some pretty good results from others.
There are many methods for cleaning and polishing bronze, but it can become a real "tar baby"if you have a dozen or so bits spread throughout the boat, and life is just too short. A somewhat sane practice is to chose one or two bits of bronze (the samson post, or a pair of winches, etc.) that you'll fastidiously clean and quick-polish every week or two, and just let nature take its course on the rest.
Remember that the patina is actually a naturally-produced protective coating.
I haven't tried the DIY anodizing process, but I've seen some pretty good results from others.
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bhartley
- Skilled Systems Installer
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- Joined: Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:13 pm
- Boat Name: Ariel Pyxis
- Boat Type: Sea Sprite 23 Cape Dory 25D
- Location: Wolfskin Georgia
Bronze from birth
None of the hardware was every chromed. The cleats, winches, chocks, breastplate are all straight bronze.
My slip-mate has a CD28 and his bronze ports look beautiful, but I can't imagine the amount of work it takes to keep them that way.
As a child, my grandfather used to give us work to do while sailing with them on their beautiful S&S Weekender. Polishing the binnacle as like torture. I don't think I could ever keep them polished!
Patina it will be... now if I could just figure out where I put some of the pieces...
My slip-mate has a CD28 and his bronze ports look beautiful, but I can't imagine the amount of work it takes to keep them that way.
As a child, my grandfather used to give us work to do while sailing with them on their beautiful S&S Weekender. Polishing the binnacle as like torture. I don't think I could ever keep them polished!
Patina it will be... now if I could just figure out where I put some of the pieces...
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MQMurphy
- Topside Painter
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- Boat Name: Ikey Boy
- Boat Type: Paceship Westwind 24
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Have you tried straight ammonia for cleaning the brass/bronze? I just saw a post on another board where a fellow was cleaning up some bronze ports. He said 5 minutes in straight ammonia followed by (gulp) 1 hour with a buffing wheel. I'll put up a link if you want to see his photos.
- Mike Murphy
S/V Ikey Boy
1968 Westwind 24
S/V Ikey Boy
1968 Westwind 24
Of course it's a personal choice, but I really like the patina bronze gets. I probably wouldn't remove it even if it were easier. I guess it just seems like part of bronze, to my mind.
But then I dislike rusty stainless, so I do polish that -- so it's not like I never polish things. But I'd have all bronze if I could manage it.
--- Rachel
But then I dislike rusty stainless, so I do polish that -- so it's not like I never polish things. But I'd have all bronze if I could manage it.
--- Rachel
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Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
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- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
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The patina on old bronze is a good thing, usually. Polished bronze looks great, too, but the older green verdigris look is very appropriate for boats of a traditional nature. There's enough maintenance as it is without the constant need to polish bronze; even a hint of salt spray will instantly turn polished, unprotected bronze dark again.
I think some accent pieces that are polished is a good compromise. In my case, my efforts to stubbornly maintain my bright bronze port frames are well documented on this site. I use clear spray lacquer to help protect the bronze, and it works well--but the life of this coating is rather limited, after which it begins to flake away and must be removed and renewed. (Did I mention that this was a stubborn project for me?)
Another option to protect certain polished parts might be automotive clear coat, Awlgrip clear, or clear powder coat. These should hold up better than the cheap lacquer, but may not be lifetime either. I might try this on my next bronze white whale.
The only polished bronze on my boat is the port frames. I like the somewhat more elegant look these provide, but have never worried about the remainder of my bronze pieces going green.
I favor cleaning/polishing methods that retain some of the character of the antique bronze. I used sandpaper and wire wheels in a drill to clean most of mine, rather than chemicals, and some of the patina and character remained behind. So the polished bits aren't perfect by any means--but this adds to it, I believe. (To a point).
If your castings are rough and unburnished, it may be very difficult to ever polish them perfectly in the first place. Many of the Spartan castings, like those you might have on your Cape Dory, are quite rustic, so your cleaning efforts may be limited.
Good luck!
I think some accent pieces that are polished is a good compromise. In my case, my efforts to stubbornly maintain my bright bronze port frames are well documented on this site. I use clear spray lacquer to help protect the bronze, and it works well--but the life of this coating is rather limited, after which it begins to flake away and must be removed and renewed. (Did I mention that this was a stubborn project for me?)
Another option to protect certain polished parts might be automotive clear coat, Awlgrip clear, or clear powder coat. These should hold up better than the cheap lacquer, but may not be lifetime either. I might try this on my next bronze white whale.
The only polished bronze on my boat is the port frames. I like the somewhat more elegant look these provide, but have never worried about the remainder of my bronze pieces going green.
I favor cleaning/polishing methods that retain some of the character of the antique bronze. I used sandpaper and wire wheels in a drill to clean most of mine, rather than chemicals, and some of the patina and character remained behind. So the polished bits aren't perfect by any means--but this adds to it, I believe. (To a point).
If your castings are rough and unburnished, it may be very difficult to ever polish them perfectly in the first place. Many of the Spartan castings, like those you might have on your Cape Dory, are quite rustic, so your cleaning efforts may be limited.
Good luck!
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Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
Forum Founder--No Longer Participating
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Shark
- Skilled Systems Installer
- Posts: 178
- Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2003 4:27 pm
- Boat Name: Scoot
- Boat Type: Shark 24
- Location: Burlington, Ontario
- Contact:
The June issue of Classic Boat offers some tips for cleaning silicone-bronze fittings from its forum. The most unique include "gold plating" the parts to prevent tarnish or cleaning them using an application of HP sauce. If the sauce doesn't work as a cleaning agent, you can always use it on your steak.
Lyman
Lyman