Prop pullers plus pulling process?

kabauze · Post by **kabauze** » Thu Jan 26, 2006 12:12 pm

I've now had my Triton a mere six months and it's time for the first haulout. We're doing a bottom job, replacing some through-hulls and seacocks, filling a couple of useless through-hulls, and working on the cutless bearing & stuffing box. Thanks to this forum, other sources, and my limited experience with friend's boats, I've been able to plan the haulout fairly well. There's still a big question mark for me, though - how do I deal with the prop? I need to pull the driveshaft to replace the cutless bearing, and on the Triton I think that means I must pull the prop off the shaft so the shaft can be removed.

I've read here and other places about prop pullers, but I have no idea how to get my hands on one temporarily. I see West and other places stock them but they are a couple hundred dollars or more. Has anyone been able to use more commonly-available tools like an automotive gear-puller or the like? Or have folks been able to rig up their own homemade puller? Or does one generally just get the yard to do it?

Are there any Triton-specific 'gotchas' in pulling the prop? Clearance problems with the rudder, etc?

Thanks as always for the help!

Todd

MikeD · Post by **MikeD** » Thu Jan 26, 2006 12:57 pm

Check out Entry #8 for a home made prop puller in this thread on the Ariel forum:Inboard Issues

Jason K · Post by **Jason K** » Thu Jan 26, 2006 3:02 pm

I've got an old one, but on the rare occasion I pull a prop, I just borrow one. Maybe you could borrow/rent one from a local marina or boatyard.

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Thu Jan 26, 2006 4:29 pm

I have one for sale cheap ($25 bucks), but I doubt you want to pay shipping from Texas to Calif for it *grin* It's pretty heavy.

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:25 pm

how do I deal with the prop? I need to pull the driveshaft to replace the cutless bearing, and on the Triton I think that means I must pull the prop off the shaft so the shaft can be remove

If you have the original 2-bladed prop then you should be able to remove the shaft without removing the propeller. I am pretty sure I did this on my Triton. Something to note; if the propeller has been on the shaft for many many years it may resist your attempts to remove. If your shaft is made of bronze then be aware that too much pressure with the puller can deform the end of the shaft. That is how I wound up getting a new shaft :-(

I think there are many prop pullers on the web for under a hundred dollars. You could probably make your own if you were so inclined but borrowing is probably the easiest option. There are a lot of Tritons in CA listed on the National Triton Assoc. website. Someone there might be close by or could set you up with something.

Unless you know the yard does good work I would not necessarily go to them thinking "the professionals" will surely have the right tools. I have been less than satisfied with the work many yards do.

-Britton

Post by **Tim** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:43 am

Removing the prop won't help you remove the shaft if the engine is still in place inside the boat; there's not room to pull the shaft out from the inside. (And I'm assuming that you're not planning on pulling the engine.) Therefore, if your only purpose is to replace the Cutless bearing, you should concentrate your efforts on removing the shaft coupling inside the boat, and pull the shaft (with prop still attached) out from the outside. By turning the rudder hard over, you should be able to remove the shaft and prop together, though I've not tried it. The clearance is tight, but particularly with a 2-blade I think you can make it. Perhaps not, so try and figure this out ahead of time.

Some thoughts on prop removal, if it comes to that:

Whether you buy, beg, borrow, or steal, just be sure to use a real prop puller. Excess force applied in the wrong way, as Britton discovered, can definitely have a negative impact on the condition of your prop or shaft. Shafts and propellers are much more expensive than a puller.

Around here, most of the yards are still friendly and low-key enough that one can usually borrow a prop puller. I don't know what it's like at your yard, though.

The key with a prop puller is that it provides constant, if slow, pressure pulling the prop off the shaft taper. It's not necessarily an instantaneous process, so if tightening the bolts doesn't immediately yank the prop off, leave it alone under tension for a while, then continue tightening. When the prop comes off, it comes with a bang; it doesn't normally just slide easily off. Usually, about the time you're ready to throw in the towel, suddenly it comes free. Be patient, and it will come.

Oh, and don't ever hammer the propeller.

Ric in Richmond · Post by **Ric in Richmond** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:53 am

CharlieJ wrote:I have one for sale cheap ($25 bucks), but I doubt you want to pay shipping from Texas to Calif for it *grin* It's pretty heavy.

Cheap shipping of heavy stuff EASY Go Greyhound.

http://www.shipgreyhound.com/

If it will fit under the bus and there is a bus station at either end there is no better cheaper way than on a bus.

I shipped a roll bar for a BMW car (half roll cage!!) from RIchmond VA to chicago for about $50 and it got there in 2 days.

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:53 am

LOL- I've used Greyhound before. But we live SO far down into the sticks we don't GET Greyhound here. We have a small feeder bus company that runs to Houstin and CONNECTS with Greyhound.

tikvah59 · Post by **tikvah59** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:13 am

I've had some success gently heating the prop to get it off. I managed to do it without the puller. Of course, I was going to scrap the prop shaft anyway - it was bronze and the engine coupling was very badly rusted. Even after I cut the shaft I couldn't get the remaining piece out of the coupling. I bought a replacement from a Triton owner who went diesel - got a stainless prop shaft in the deal, too.

kabauze · Post by **kabauze** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:51 am

Thanks for all the advice, guys! Not sure if I'm ready for the 'adventure' of shipping by Greyhound, but pulling the prop seems a lot clearer now. Tim correctly surmised that I wasn't going to pull the engine and needed to pull the shaft out of the coupling and out of the boat aft. So...I may try to remove the shaft with the prop still on. My boat has a 2 blade but it's a retrofitted diesel so I don't know if the dimensions might be different from stock. If they are larger, for instance, I guess there might be some clearance problems. But I'll wing it and borrow a puller if needed.

Thanks again for humoring the first-time hauler who is nervous about every step of the job...

Curmudgeon · Post by **Curmudgeon** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 6:10 pm

Since I'm about....oh... 600 miles from the closest boat chandlery I made my own (read: built-like-a-brick #house) - about 10$ for four round plates of 1/2" steel from the scrapyard, four 12" bolts with nuts and washers, an hours' work cutting round holes with a drill and hacksaw and voila! Worked like a charm. Tims is absolutely right about taking it slow and easy, and the noise it makes. I tightened each bolt in sequence only 1-2 turns at a time, and when it finally gave way.... sounded like a fire cracker. It was also easily adapable to use for pulling the cutless bearing. I haven't got any photos of my setup, but will do so in the next couple of days if the weather continues to cooperate.

Figment · Post by **Figment** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 8:41 pm

yes, it is possible (with stock rudder) to extract the shaft with a two blade prop attached.

It's easier if you get one blade past the rudder, then extract a bit more and walk the other blade around.