Epoxy as a primer for non skid

[tartan30cirrus]

Need advice on the use of epoxy and how to fix a mistake....

In Fall I epoxy coated some areas on deck that I wanted to ADD non skid. I am reapplying some InterDeck this spring. I layed a coat of unthickened epoxy on the coachroof edges and around the chainplates. It did not kick and drooled all over. What a mess. Anyway, it finally cured after weeks. Where it drooled it forms som thick spots and some thin spots but I have coverage. I no longer have a nice sharp edge either. My thought was to prime the surface and build up a base so that the old and new nonskid is seamless.

Question is: 1) Should I apply a second coat to get the layer even and built up a little more and then sand fair? 2) Was this a proper use of epoxy? The undercoat was most likely paint and not gelcoat (not 100% sure). 3) When I mask for the epoxy is it best to remove the tape before it begins to kick or just as it gets a little tacky?

Cheers,
Clint Chase

[Figment]

I'm not really clear on this one. Why did you lay this epoxy in the first place? As a sort of super-primer, to give the new nonskid something to hold onto? or, were you trying to level out some uneven spots?

Given that the epoxy took weeks to cure, I'm not sure I would trust it. For peace of mind, it may be best to scrape it away and start from scratch.

Masking is as much an art as it is a science. To each their own. Personally, I usually strip the tape just as the product (be it paint, sealant, epoxy, etc) starts to tack up.

That's more of a guideline than a rule, really.

[Tim]

It sounds as if you may need to do some sanding/grinding to even out the uneven epoxy areas. When you do, you'll discover just how successfully cured the epoxy actually is, which may lead you down the ultimate path you need to take.

In general, there's no need for the sort of epoxy coating that you did. To expand a nonskid area, usually the only prep would be to sand the substrate in an appropriate manner to accept new paint. But I think I understand what you were attempting: I guess you were trying to build up an area adjacent to one of the original molded-in nonskid areas that probably stands proud by 1/16" or so, as is typical? A better way to do this would involve using very thick epoxy as a putty, which you could skim over the new area in a thickness similar to that of the adjacent deck areas, to create a smoother transition.

Since products like Interdeck are pretty much compatible with all other paints you might find on deck, sanding for "tooth" is pretty much all that is required. In fact, Interdeck doesn't even require primer over bare fiberglass, according to the can. I used Interdeck on a project last fall, and was actually very impressed with it. It looks very nice when complete. It's very thick and weird in the can, but it rolls out extremely well. I did not thin it whatsoever.

I think painting over existing nonskid pattern is generally less good than removing the old pattern and starting from a flat surface. It looks funny to have gritty paint on top of the old molded pattern, and it's worth the effort to remove all the old before going new. In the end, it makes for a better job overall. I have never seen a truly successful paint-over-molded job; they always look like someone cut a corner (which, in my opinion, they did). People often say that they hate to lose the old pattern...but when it requires repainting, there is simply no valid option for saving that old pattern, and removing it all before repainting provides a much better result, both functionally and visually.

As far as tape removal, it is usually easiest to remove right away, or as soon as you can. Most paints tack up quickly enough that you can almost start stripping tape from a large job as soon as the painting is done, but each case is a little different. Good quality tape makes all the difference if you wait, though, or if you're planning multiple steps and only want to mask once. Actually, good quality tape makes all the difference, period. I swear by the silver 3M #225 long mask tape, which not only comes off cleanly after 30 days, but also pulls up easily even if thick overcoatings of paint might be over the top. Epoxy is tougher, so it's best to try and get the tape off as soon as the epoxy has reached that soft cure stage, when it will no longer run or sag, but is still relatively soft. Once it gets hard and brittle, it's much harder to get the tape off. I use the blue tape for most utility jobs where the performance of the very expensive silver tape is not necessary. I haven't used ordinary tan tape in 15 years. 3M makes the best masking tapes, hands down. The "store" brands usually end up leaving something to be desired, in my experience.

[Figment]

What, no bite on the Ghostbusters line? You're slipping, Tim.

[tartan30cirrus]

I was trying to match the thickness of the old non skid. The existing non skid is not a stuck on pattern, but just a beige painted non skid, maybe even Interdeck. So, does the rule to strip it down still apply?

Have folks tried fineline tape...what are people's thoughts on it?

TX for thoughts

Cheers
Clint

[Tim]

With a painted nonskid, it should be a bit easier to make a new area blend in successfully, as the painted area is much less thick than one of the molded pattern types.

I would sand the transitional area to even out the seam between paint and no paint, and then paint the new layer over the entire area as needed. This should provide a seamless transition.

Fineline tape is good for boottops and striping, as its thinness prevents any of the paint bleedthrough that can sometimes happen with other tapes. It's also good for taping radii and curves, as you can stretch it and make it conform well to the radius. However, it doesn't stand up as well to heavier paints that might leave a rather substantial film over the tape edge, like antifouling or nonskid, and isn't meant for long-term use, especially outdoors. It's pretty much a one-use tape, but does the job it is advertised for.

I prefer a heavier tape and am stuck (haha) on #225 silver. Expensive, but nearly flawless in all ways. I've had no trouble using this tape (or the blue 7-day tape) for striping and fine lines, so as a catch-all type, this is my favorite.