The Kaholee Project
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- Boateg
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- Boat Name: Dasein
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton 668
- Location: Portland, Maine
- Contact:
Oh, trust me. Tim doesn't do much work when he's cruising! I've seen it first hand.Allen wrote:Ah, but Tim goes cruising so he can work on HIS boat without the rest of us bugging him. ;)
He makes a mean egg breakfast sandwich though!
Nathan
dasein668.com
dasein668.com
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- Boateg
- Posts: 1637
- Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2003 9:09 am
- Boat Name: Dasein
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton 668
- Location: Portland, Maine
- Contact:
Which one?bcooke wrote:Oh boy was that breakfast good :-)
Home made corned beef hash and eggs?
Egg and cheese breakfast sandwiches?
Steak and eggs?
Anyone see a theme here? Anyone want to cruise with Dasein and Glissando? ;-D
Nathan
dasein668.com
dasein668.com
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- Master Varnisher
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Thu Feb 22, 2007 7:34 pm
- Location: Seattle WA
Now that Phase 1 is over, what am I going to do?
Everyday I would look at the Kaholee web site and read about the days progress, admire the work etc. I especially like the before and after pics from a few days ago. She has really come a long way. I love this stuff!
Now what? I'm hooked, I need my fix......
Great work Tim!
Everyday I would look at the Kaholee web site and read about the days progress, admire the work etc. I especially like the before and after pics from a few days ago. She has really come a long way. I love this stuff!
Now what? I'm hooked, I need my fix......
Great work Tim!
Gregg
Pearson Renegade #145
Pearson Renegade #145
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What's this ? Nathan Sanborn - Tim Lackeys official PR agentdasein668 wrote:Go to lackeysailing.com to find the next project.
(only kidding)
Last edited by Mark.Wilme on Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mark.
S/V Calypso. 2001 Beneteau Oceanis 381
Not quite a plastic classic yet
S/V Calypso. 2001 Beneteau Oceanis 381
Not quite a plastic classic yet
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- Master of the Arcane
- Posts: 2272
- Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2003 10:55 pm
- Boat Name: Jenny
- Boat Type: 1966 Pearson Triton
- Location: Rowley, MA
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Poor Tim, he just wants to fix a few boats and instead he holds the fate of thousands of adoring fans in his hands...
You don't really want to look at more photos of ground down gelcoat and sanded filler do you?...
-Britton
Don't hold your breath. I make far too many mistakes and I am far too vain to be publishing everything on the web. I hope to be posting a few more photos in the coming months though.Now it's Britton's turn to entertain the masses with his daily tinkerings
You don't really want to look at more photos of ground down gelcoat and sanded filler do you?...
-Britton
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- Boateg
- Posts: 1637
- Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2003 9:09 am
- Boat Name: Dasein
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton 668
- Location: Portland, Maine
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It get's me a discount on my boat storage.Mark.Wilme wrote:What's this ?Nathan Sanborn - Tim Lackeys official PR agentdasein668 wrote:Go to lackeysailing.com to find the next project.
No "e" in my name, though.
Nathan
dasein668.com
dasein668.com
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- Boateg
- Posts: 1637
- Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2003 9:09 am
- Boat Name: Dasein
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton 668
- Location: Portland, Maine
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You aren't really going to make me answer that question, are you?bcooke wrote:You don't really want to look at more photos of ground down gelcoat and sanded filler do you?...
Nathan
dasein668.com
dasein668.com
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
Um...yes.bcooke wrote:You don't really want to look at more photos of ground down gelcoat and sanded filler do you?...
Strangely enough, no one seems to tire of that.
Note that it's not really about the sanded filler...it's about seeing the progress, however incremental.
You have a big year coming up for your project. Let's see it, man!
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I went and visited Tim last weekend and we did some shopping at Hamilton Marine. Got the auto pilot, heater, storm anchor, interior lights, instruments, fuel filters and some smaller stuff.
I'm also getting ready to ship the electronics package to Tim (RL80C display, radome, GPS, etc.). This should help Tim find something to do with any spare time he comes across between not and then. :)
I'm also getting ready to ship the electronics package to Tim (RL80C display, radome, GPS, etc.). This should help Tim find something to do with any spare time he comes across between not and then. :)
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I'm really looking forward to April 08 when we set sail for the Caribbean. The only problem is she is looking so good I think I should just keep her safe and sound, but Tritons were made to sail so that's what we'll do. However I am not looking forward to my first close encounter with the dock. ;)
Phase 2 should start in October when the engine arrives. Tim says it should only take a month to complete, but there is a lot of stuff left to install. Oh well, this is Tim and he is pretty amazing.
Phase 2 should start in October when the engine arrives. Tim says it should only take a month to complete, but there is a lot of stuff left to install. Oh well, this is Tim and he is pretty amazing.
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Would you be willing to share why you selected the dual fuel filter? It would seem like overkill for a small diesel, but very nice!I went and visited Tim last weekend and we did some shopping at Hamilton Marine. Got the auto pilot, heater, storm anchor, interior lights, instruments, fuel filters and some smaller stuff.
Also please tell us more about your instruments.
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The dual fuel filter allows me to switch filters in the event one becomes plugged up at the throw of a switch. When you consider the total investment in the boat it is cheap insurance.JonnyBoats wrote:Would you be willing to share why you selected the dual fuel filter? It would seem like overkill for a small diesel, but very nice!I went and visited Tim last weekend and we did some shopping at Hamilton Marine. Got the auto pilot, heater, storm anchor, interior lights, instruments, fuel filters and some smaller stuff.
Also please tell us more about your instruments.
I had originally planned on using the ST40 instruments, but the ST60 instruments interface better with my Raytheon RL80C display/Radar and my ST4000 autopilot allowing me to sail angle to the wind by interfacing the ST60 Wind instrument's transducer with the ST4000. For the relatively short passages I'll be making in the Caribbean this configuration should work as well as a more combersom servo-pendulum unit like the Monitor I had originally planned on using.
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I'm pretty sure it was the RAC-75500MAX2 which is the smaller of the two units offered by Hamilton Marine. It is a bit larger than we had hoped, so Tim will need to be creative in finding a place to mount it, but it will allow for changing fuel filters without inducing air into the system and as mentioned, add some redundancy if engine operation becomes critical.
http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,7761.htm
http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,7761.htm
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
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- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
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If you really want to have fuel filter fun, check out the Filter BOSS from KTI Systems.
Allen and I decided this system was a little much--in cost and in overkill--for Kaholee, but it's a nice setup nonetheless. Note that the quoted price of $950 does not include the Racor filters.
I think Allen's 75500MAX2 system is so nice looking that I'll mount it on the saloon bulkhead next to the Newport stove. (kidding)
Allen and I decided this system was a little much--in cost and in overkill--for Kaholee, but it's a nice setup nonetheless. Note that the quoted price of $950 does not include the Racor filters.
I think Allen's 75500MAX2 system is so nice looking that I'll mount it on the saloon bulkhead next to the Newport stove. (kidding)
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The fisherman anchor is going to be stored and secured in the bilge. It's my hurricane insurance so will not be used very often (I hope).
Light fixture wise, we selected the red/which round incandescent fixtures for the general lighting.
For reading lights we selected these.
For the navigation table light I had to go to West Marine for this unit which can do white of blue and can be moved around (two mounting brackets and a spring cable for moving about the chart).
Light fixture wise, we selected the red/which round incandescent fixtures for the general lighting.
For reading lights we selected these.
For the navigation table light I had to go to West Marine for this unit which can do white of blue and can be moved around (two mounting brackets and a spring cable for moving about the chart).
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Hi Britton,
It's a Horizon 500 that I got off of eBay. Since there is a lot of coral in the Caribbean I'll be running 100 ft. or chain and 200 feet of line for my anchor rhode. This means, in most anchorages, I'll be on all chain. I thought it would be handy to have an electric windless to speed up the anchor retrieval process, especially if it becomes necessary to move in a hurry. Below are links to the manual for the 500 and a one on eBay if you are interested.
Allen
Manual...
http://www.pyacht.net/online-store/scst ... on_500.pdf
On eBay...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Simpson- ... dZViewItem
It's a Horizon 500 that I got off of eBay. Since there is a lot of coral in the Caribbean I'll be running 100 ft. or chain and 200 feet of line for my anchor rhode. This means, in most anchorages, I'll be on all chain. I thought it would be handy to have an electric windless to speed up the anchor retrieval process, especially if it becomes necessary to move in a hurry. Below are links to the manual for the 500 and a one on eBay if you are interested.
Allen
Manual...
http://www.pyacht.net/online-store/scst ... on_500.pdf
On eBay...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Simpson- ... dZViewItem
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- Skilled Systems Installer
- Posts: 194
- Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2006 6:04 pm
- Boat Type: Westsail 32
- Location: Erlanger, Ky
Forward Hatch
What make / model hatch did you use on Kaholee? I looked through the whole diary but could not find this information. But prone to missing things that are right in front of me. Probably actetone fumes
The board does not cut itself short!
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Cap'n Tom,
The hatch is a Bomar, low profile aluminum hatch. I got it off of eBay, and do not remember the exact model number. It is a 1000 series I believe.
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail.h ... &group=735
Maybe Tim can check the label.
The hatch is a Bomar, low profile aluminum hatch. I got it off of eBay, and do not remember the exact model number. It is a 1000 series I believe.
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail.h ... &group=735
Maybe Tim can check the label.
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Looking good! I think I may end up borrowing the idea for electrical panel location, that is a great space saver! Imagine it took a bit of contortion to run the wires though... grin.
Hey Rachel, Could you elaborate a bit on the sink drain, and using a pump instead of gravity to drain?
Sounds like an interesting idea!
Zach
Hey Rachel, Could you elaborate a bit on the sink drain, and using a pump instead of gravity to drain?
Sounds like an interesting idea!
Zach
Hi Zach,
The boat I'm referring to was originally finished by a fellow who did not like underwater through hulls - there were only three on the boat below the waterline: Engine intake, head intake, and head discharge.
So, both the galley and head sinks drained overboard above the waterline. If I remember correctly, they were Teed into the cockpit drains (which also exited above the waterline), not that that matters for this explanation (and it may not be correct anyway). I believe that both of these sinks were below the waterline, so they would not have drained properly even through underwater through hulls, as the water level would have kept the sinks constantly flooded.
How it worked was that there was a smallish manual bilge pump adjacent to each sink, and you simply pumped that to empty the sink. I think what made it work is the fact that the pumps were very ergonomically placed, and so were easy to use.
In this photo you can see the locker that contained the galley sink pump - the sink is on port side, and the pump is set vertically in the compartment to port of, and behind the sink that has a (partially viewable) stained glass door (the similar door to starboard houses battery switches, keys, bilge pump handles, and the like).
As a side note, we took the tiny, dollhouse-like sink that was originally in that spot, and moved it to the right (you can't quite see it). It did not have water inflow, but was hooked up to the drain, and was used as a recessed, secure, dish-drying space. Turned out to be quite handy. In order to make room for the larger sink, we had to take the faucet out of the counter and make it a wall-mount (we mated a Fynspray swiveling spout to ordinary copper plumbing and then hose once it was inside the locker). This worked out well as there was no faucet base around which water and crumbs could accumulate.
I had two complaints, one of which Britton will not want to hear about (Britton: Stop Reading Now).
1) Our particular set-up did not have any "holding tank" in the line, so very soon after you started using water, it would accumulate in the sink. This was not noticeable in the head, where we pumped with a low-draw Baby Whale foot pump, but it could be a pain in the galley (higher output Whale foot pump), because if, say, you were rinsing dishes, the sink would accumulate soapy water, and the dishes "on deck" in the bottom of the sink would stay soapy instead of getting a "pre rinse" as the fresh water flowed over them.
This could have been remedied by a small, in-line tank so that a couple of gallons would be able to accumulate before needing to be pumped (on the other hand, there were times when it was handy that the water didn't run right out, but I would have preferred it to be an option).
2) For those times when <whispers> peeing in the sink was a part of the "personal waste management plan" (such in a foreign anchorage in a country with no pump out facilities), this was not so suitable, as you had to think about those nearly-horizontal hoses and what might be sitting in them. Of course one can simply use a jug and then dump it over the side (not that I'm saying anyone did), but that's not as cool. I think a manually-pumped galley sink and then a straight-overboard-draining head sink would be a great combo (on a boat where you have two sinks).
3) Britton can resume reading now.
Let me know if you have any other questions, Zach. And keep us posted on your new baby :-)
Rachel
The boat I'm referring to was originally finished by a fellow who did not like underwater through hulls - there were only three on the boat below the waterline: Engine intake, head intake, and head discharge.
So, both the galley and head sinks drained overboard above the waterline. If I remember correctly, they were Teed into the cockpit drains (which also exited above the waterline), not that that matters for this explanation (and it may not be correct anyway). I believe that both of these sinks were below the waterline, so they would not have drained properly even through underwater through hulls, as the water level would have kept the sinks constantly flooded.
How it worked was that there was a smallish manual bilge pump adjacent to each sink, and you simply pumped that to empty the sink. I think what made it work is the fact that the pumps were very ergonomically placed, and so were easy to use.
In this photo you can see the locker that contained the galley sink pump - the sink is on port side, and the pump is set vertically in the compartment to port of, and behind the sink that has a (partially viewable) stained glass door (the similar door to starboard houses battery switches, keys, bilge pump handles, and the like).
As a side note, we took the tiny, dollhouse-like sink that was originally in that spot, and moved it to the right (you can't quite see it). It did not have water inflow, but was hooked up to the drain, and was used as a recessed, secure, dish-drying space. Turned out to be quite handy. In order to make room for the larger sink, we had to take the faucet out of the counter and make it a wall-mount (we mated a Fynspray swiveling spout to ordinary copper plumbing and then hose once it was inside the locker). This worked out well as there was no faucet base around which water and crumbs could accumulate.
I had two complaints, one of which Britton will not want to hear about (Britton: Stop Reading Now).
1) Our particular set-up did not have any "holding tank" in the line, so very soon after you started using water, it would accumulate in the sink. This was not noticeable in the head, where we pumped with a low-draw Baby Whale foot pump, but it could be a pain in the galley (higher output Whale foot pump), because if, say, you were rinsing dishes, the sink would accumulate soapy water, and the dishes "on deck" in the bottom of the sink would stay soapy instead of getting a "pre rinse" as the fresh water flowed over them.
This could have been remedied by a small, in-line tank so that a couple of gallons would be able to accumulate before needing to be pumped (on the other hand, there were times when it was handy that the water didn't run right out, but I would have preferred it to be an option).
2) For those times when <whispers> peeing in the sink was a part of the "personal waste management plan" (such in a foreign anchorage in a country with no pump out facilities), this was not so suitable, as you had to think about those nearly-horizontal hoses and what might be sitting in them. Of course one can simply use a jug and then dump it over the side (not that I'm saying anyone did), but that's not as cool. I think a manually-pumped galley sink and then a straight-overboard-draining head sink would be a great combo (on a boat where you have two sinks).
3) Britton can resume reading now.
Let me know if you have any other questions, Zach. And keep us posted on your new baby :-)
Rachel
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- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
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- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
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There's a photo of the front of the panel in the log from September 8, 2007.
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Thanks. Also thank you for posting a better photo on Oct. 18, 2007.There's a photo of the front of the panel in the log from September 8, 2007.
It looks like a BlueSea panel with 16 positions (number 8377?), all filled. By historical standards, that seems like a big panel for a boat of this size, but I guess systems requirements have grown substantially since the 1960s!
I am getting ready to completely re-wire my LeComte 38 sloop, so I am interested in whatever you can share on how you go about deciding what size panel to use? In particular some of the items probably could have shared a breaker _if_ they had seperate switches to turn them on and off (sailing instruments and electronics for example).
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John,
If we were not designing for extended cruising and living aboard you could most certainly cut back on the shipboard systems, electrical load and size of the electrical panel. In fact you could probably cutback anyway, but what the heck, like Tim says, "What the boat wants, the boat gets". ;)
Speaking of mad excess...
Hot damn, 20HP! :D
If we were not designing for extended cruising and living aboard you could most certainly cut back on the shipboard systems, electrical load and size of the electrical panel. In fact you could probably cutback anyway, but what the heck, like Tim says, "What the boat wants, the boat gets". ;)
Speaking of mad excess...
Hot damn, 20HP! :D
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Beta Engine Installation
Cannot wait for the installation postings. Will you hurry please Tim ;-)
Ray D. Chang
Triton 106 in Berkeley, CA
Triton 106 in Berkeley, CA
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Boy Tim, you are really cranking along, what with the engne in and the electrical fired up. You work fast, I wish I could get my projects done as quickly. (It wouldn't be half bad if they looked a tenth as good as your stuff at the same time.)
Anyway I am wondering what the two small panels to the right (outboard) of the Xantrex panel are?
Anyway I am wondering what the two small panels to the right (outboard) of the Xantrex panel are?
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Tim, in your posting for 26-OCT-2007 you have:
Are you teeing off the seacock supplying engine cooling water? If so, don't most engine manufacturers want a dedicated seacock for engine cooling water?Raw water intake and raw water strainer (including bronze tee for raw water supply to the galley and saltwater washdown)