Has anyone seen a "watertight" companionway on a fiberglass sailboat in the 30-40 ft range that had a somewhat traditional look?
One sees lots of watertight companionways on the latest ocean racing boats (Volvo etc), but they do not look very traditional.
Or am I simply looking for the impossible?
Truly watertight companionway?
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Re: Truly watertight companionway?
No. Sliding hatches are only water repellent, and in a limited fashion. Adding a good dodger and a sea hood make all the difference, but those won't help a lot if you are pooped or roll over.JonnyBoats wrote:Has anyone seen a "watertight" companionway on a fiberglass sailboat in the 30-40 ft range that had a somewhat traditional look?
Probably. Only fully gasketed covers will be waterproof. This precludes anything sliding. There may be solutions that satisfy you, but I don't think the traditional sliding hatch with weather boards will ever be truly waterproof.JonnyBoats wrote:Or am I simply looking for the impossible?
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
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I think you need to define your terms. Watertight under what conditions? And I think you need to consider the other 'leaks' using those terms. Lazarette hatches, dorades and ventilators, engine controls, instruments, mast and boot.
I disagree, somewhat, with Hirilonde. I think you can make a traditional-looking board and sliding companionway 'watertight'. He's quite right about the sliding gaskets. You'd have to arrange a way to slide the boards down with the gaskets quite loose with the faying surfaces flat and resistant to wear, and then 'dog' them to compress the gaskets. Dogs could be the overcenter latches like your old hatches or rotating wedges like casement windows. The sliding hatch is tougher. You could rework the tracks, which are sort of a labyrinth seal, to add leaf springs and gaskets. The springs would have to lift the hatch off the gaskets so that the hatch would slide. You'd add faying surfaces and a gasket at the forward edge where it's currently completely open, but protected by the cover. You'd add a gasket to the top of the hatch board. Then arrange dogs to press the thing down past the springs and compress the gaskets.
Problems include: Dogging and undogging from inside for sure, but also from the outside? Protrusive- and obtrusive-ness of the dogs; they surely would take divots out of you and the woodwork. Deciding when the boat should be sealed, obviously 'never' until it needs it!
I disagree, somewhat, with Hirilonde. I think you can make a traditional-looking board and sliding companionway 'watertight'. He's quite right about the sliding gaskets. You'd have to arrange a way to slide the boards down with the gaskets quite loose with the faying surfaces flat and resistant to wear, and then 'dog' them to compress the gaskets. Dogs could be the overcenter latches like your old hatches or rotating wedges like casement windows. The sliding hatch is tougher. You could rework the tracks, which are sort of a labyrinth seal, to add leaf springs and gaskets. The springs would have to lift the hatch off the gaskets so that the hatch would slide. You'd add faying surfaces and a gasket at the forward edge where it's currently completely open, but protected by the cover. You'd add a gasket to the top of the hatch board. Then arrange dogs to press the thing down past the springs and compress the gaskets.
Problems include: Dogging and undogging from inside for sure, but also from the outside? Protrusive- and obtrusive-ness of the dogs; they surely would take divots out of you and the woodwork. Deciding when the boat should be sealed, obviously 'never' until it needs it!
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I've been pondering this one as well.
It seems like for the sliding hatch cover, one can't really rely on gaskets...
The Contessa 26 has a novel compromise by getting away from the sliding hatch but retaining drop boards. Don't think I would, as a whole lot of light and air comes through that open hatch!
I'm considering building a door that drops onto hinges inside the boat, and uses the interior trim as its frame. Wouldn't work if the boat is awash... but driving rain between the boards would hit the door and find its way back outside.
It seems like for the sliding hatch cover, one can't really rely on gaskets...
The Contessa 26 has a novel compromise by getting away from the sliding hatch but retaining drop boards. Don't think I would, as a whole lot of light and air comes through that open hatch!
I'm considering building a door that drops onto hinges inside the boat, and uses the interior trim as its frame. Wouldn't work if the boat is awash... but driving rain between the boards would hit the door and find its way back outside.
1961 Pearson Triton
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1942 Coast Guard Cutter - Rebuild
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http://pylasteki.blogspot.com/
1942 Coast Guard Cutter - Rebuild
http://83footernoel.blogspot.com/
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I think that in regard to traditional companionways such as those on Tritons, the entire unit could be reworked to be more water tight. Gaskets could be used as well a dogs locking from the inside. I think I would start with a single board for the access-way instead of three. Wider side tracks would be in order as well as a very good seahood for the sliding hatch. Finally, a double door arrangement could be employed as well.
Brian
Jollyboat, Triton #466
Sepi,Triton #346 (1st, Triton)
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Jollyboat, Triton #466
Sepi,Triton #346 (1st, Triton)
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