Plastic Classic Forum

Which if any is a better choice for a bow cleat? I have to replace my 8" four hole aluminum horn cleat because there is excessive corrosion around one of the deck fastener holes.

I'm thinking my choices are a solid aluminum horn cleat like I have now, a solid stainless steal horn cleat, a mooring bit, or a stainless steel bollard cleat.

Is weight a consideration? I have a mooring not a slip, is that a factor? Or does it come down to personal preference and how much one is willing to spend?

Gary wrote: I'm thinking my choices are a solid aluminum horn cleat like I have now, a solid stainless steal horn cleat, a mooring bit, or a stainless steel bollard cleat.

Not speaking to style or type, but simply to material choice, you could also consider bronze (maybe you have, and discarded it for your own reasons, but I couldn't tell).

I have a bronze bit and you couldn't get me to change to anything else. 4 large bolts and a serious backer plate and I sleep really well on the boat and at home.

I guess Paulus is saying you should put "add samson posts to boat" on your list ;)

Gary wrote:Is weight a consideration?

Unless you're on a serious weight-reduction plan, then absolutely not. (Within reason, obviously.)

Gary wrote: I have a mooring not a slip, is that a factor?

I think it is. For moorings, one generally wants a larger, heavier-duty tie-off point for strength, security, and, most importantly, peace of mind.

Gary wrote:Or does it come down to personal preference and how much one is willing to spend?

Both. And how much you want to worry about your boat every second she's on the mooring.

I love my 8" bronze mooring bit. I worry about a lot of things when it comes to the boat left alone on her mooring, but the failure of this particular item is not one of them. Plus, it looks good, is extremely secure, holds even the largest mooring lines, and is easy to use.

Tim, do you get a fair lead from chocks to the bitt?

I read somewhere, so it must be true, that the worst peril for a nylon anchor or mooring line is caused by the amount the line stretches between the tie-off and the chock, as the load comes and goes. The line rubs in the chock more if there's more stretching in that distance, thus a shorter distance is to be desired.

I don't think there much to choose between bitts, bollards and cleats presuming the corners are all eased enough, the radii forced into the line are within the line's tolerance, and the capacities adequate; the same has to be said of the chocks. Additionally, the line has to make it from chock to buoy or anchor without chafing on anything, like a bobstay or spare anchor.

We took a small ferry from St Francisville LA across the Mississippi last week. The steel barge-like vessel makes the trip all day, every day, every 25 minutes or so. It lands against another barge which has the ramps built onto it. A seaman drops a 2" dia line over the bitts of the barge and back to a large cleat on the ferry. The skipper backs up and that sailor does the same at the aft end. Every day, all day. The steel cleats are about 30" horn to horn, 8" high and about 5" wide; it started out with sharpish corners, but where the line lies it has worn the nicest neatest eased edges!

Quetzalsailor wrote:Tim, do you get a fair lead from chocks to the bitt?!

Yes indeed. Of course, I can't lay my hands on a photo that shows the lead right at the moment, but I originally installed chocks and bitt in specific areas in order to ensure the line led properly.

That said, I normally run some chafe gear on the mooring pendant for the portion where it crosses the anchor platform, and into the chock. But there are no undue chafe points.

I think one of the biggest problem areas in a mooring set up is the chocks. Both the size and location of them is often poor for a mooring bridle. Too many boats have chocks that are too small and they are often located too far aft. The best angle for a mooring bridle is as close to straight forward from the bit/cleat as possible. The sharper the bend in the line the chock creates between the bit/cleat and the float ends of the bridle the greater the wear. Many moorings use 1" or even larger bridles, and many boat's chocks are too small for this size line.

Some where along the evolution of boats the simple important details of mooring security gave way to supposed elegance. A beautiful boat on the rocks isn't so beautiful. No where does the following saying have more meaning than on boats:

"There is beauty in function"

Rachel wrote:I guess Paulus is saying you should put "add samson posts to boat" on your list ;)

Quite elaborately I might add, that is, .... if a picture says a thousand words... ;-)

I love my samson posts - they just can't compare to my experience with cleats. Then again, that bollard looks very, very nice as well.

Though I too was wondering about the position - as far back from the chocks as it is...

Thanks everyone for all the info.

Rachel wrote:you could also consider bronze

I agree. Bronze looks good and is well suited to the environment.

Hirilondë wrote:I sleep really well on the boat and at home.

Hirilondë wrote:A beautiful boat on the rocks isn't so beautiful.

Tim wrote: I worry about a lot of things when it comes to the boat left alone on her mooring, but the failure of this particular item is not one of them.

You fine people here at the Plastic Classic Forum sure do know how to help a guy spend money. :-)

I just ordered one and I'm feeling very good about the purchase.

http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/

Model#: 00MB7X7 Material: Cast Bronze Base size: 7 x 7" Height: 6-1/2" Screw size: 3/8" Wt: 10.5lbs Price: $210.87 (marked down from $300.00)

Gary wrote:You fine people here at the Plastic Classic Forum sure do know how to help a guy spend money. :-)....................... Price: $210.87 (marked down from $300.00)

The matching signal flag coasters and beer cozies will just have to wait a little while longer ;>)

Another great way to attach mooring/anchor lines to your bow is to have cleats mounted right on the rail, obviating the need for chocks at all. Eliminates chafe from stretch between the cleat and the chock - but doesn't work as well for anchoring if you usually leave the line payed out over the anchor roller (for which you could have a third cleat, centred behind the roller channel). If you remove the line from the roller (arguably stronger under extreme duress, depending on how robust the roller attachment is) then it wouldn't matter.

Speaking of chafe, however, I had it on my mooring bridle from the tip of my plow anchor before I started tying it up and out of the way - lots to pay attention to!

It's been a while.

Here's a picture of the installed bitt. I went with stainless steel because the bronze bit (in the size I was looking for) would have been backordered with a 6 to 8 week delivery schedule.

The stainless bitt goes well with the rest of the deck hardware and I like its looks too.

There is a 1/4" aluminum backer plate a little bigger than the teak mounting board. There's no way this thing is comming loose from boat unless the whole fordeck goes with it.

Gary wrote:There's no way this thing is comming loose from boat unless the whole fordeck goes with it.

Just think how well you will sleep!

Me likey!

Makes me want to do something similar with mine.

Right now what I've got is two mis-matched cleats up there. One large-ish one and one medium-ish one. And I haven't ever really taken a good look as to how they're mounted. After reading all this, you've done an excellent job of raising my paranoia level, so thanks for that.

But yeah, that one big fitting there looks neater and more secure than a mish-mash of a couple different cleats.

Sigh.... yet another project to consider...