rudder shaft packing

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svMaja
Bottom Sanding Grunt
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 7:44 pm

rudder shaft packing

Post by svMaja »

so I have a medalist 33. the rudder shaft packing gland is leaking pretty bad. I finally got the nut to move. Now to pack it.. and that is where I am stuck.

is there any place on the web I can be directed to find a photo of what I am suposed to be doing?

I am just a bit nervous about this process.. any help is appreciated.
thanks
fair winds
Jason K
Boat Obsession Medal Finalist
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Boat Name: Rambunctious
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Post by Jason K »

If the boat is still in the water, you'll need to move quickly. Get the wax coated packing material from any chandlery. Use the exposed portion of the shaft to cut the material to the right size. You want each piece to fit around the shaft with the ends coming together (each piece will be cut to the diameter of the shaft.

Back off the packing gland and remove the old packing material. The best tool for this job is the tool below. You screw the corkscrew end into the material and pull it out.

Image

When you remove all of the material, you be getting a fair amount of water into the boat, so you'll want to work quickly. Insert the pre-cut pieces of new packing material by wrapping them around the shaft and into the gland. Offset the seams of the material 90 degrees for each new piece. It will probably take about 4 pieces.

Back down the nut on the stuffing box and monitor for leaks. While it should not leak when the shaft is not turning, be sure it drips a little bit when the motor is running, as that is how the shaft is lubricated. It should have a few drips a minute.
- Jason King (formerly #218)
J/30 Rambunctious
http://www.rambunctiousracing.com
Figment
Damned Because It's All Connected
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Boat Name: Triton
Boat Type: Grand Banks 42
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Post by Figment »

It's natural to be nervous about the process.
Go for a swim with some vaseline. Packing vaseline around the shaft at the (as well as you can) will at least slow the water ingress during the repacking of the nut. I've also heard of people using toilet flange wax, but I've always thought this was overkill.

Is there room to use those flax-picking tools on such a short shaft? You could also fashion a hooked tool of some sort out of a kebab skewer or something.

With good access, this takes maybe three minutes. Reaching one arm in through an access-port, it may take fifteen.

If you get flustered halfway through, just get some packing in there and put it back together, collect yourself and start over.
svMaja
Bottom Sanding Grunt
Posts: 5
Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 7:44 pm

Post by svMaja »

hi and thanks everyone.

the shaft in question goes to my tiller/rudder. It did not seem to drip any worse when the nut was finally beat into submission and slid up the shaft. NO packing was found anywhere. Nice tool there, expensive too. My crochet hook would have worked fine had there been packing to remove.

Salesman at Fawcett's said to use 5/16th size..surrrrrrrrrre... it ended up being 1/8th. I liberaly greased it up and offset the 3 rows of packing.
slide the big nut back down and tightened it.. NO drips period.

It was pretty bad by the time I finally got the top nut off. I was pumping a 4 foot deep by 1 foot wide bilge every 8 hours.

the bottom nut seems permanently stuck. I have tried pb blaster, even a cold chisel with a 5 lb hammer on it. Nada.

after that I realized the next leak was at the bottom of the whole rudder affair that bolts to the boat. It needs a new seal. I used that underwater expoxy as a temp fix till I pull the boat. Its down to a faint seep now.

next project is to fix the stuck sheave for the topping lift. Then replace the engine.. still looking for a cheap diesel.. in the mean time i have a line on a rebuilt A4.
boats, they are more expensive than having two teens in the house..

again thanks everyone..
'bella
aboard
sv Maja
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