While we're on the subject...
I've gone back and forth on the lazy jack thing for years. There's no denying their utility in many situations, and it would be nice to avoid having that 14' mainsail belly drape all over the boat when the sail is lowered.
I've always objected to the way many systems I've seen are set up. I'd prefer to not have these excess lines hanging all over the place when I don't need them (and having to deal with the sailcover over and around the lines). Therefore, I've been giving some thought to a system of easily-retractable (and settable) lazy jacks. They work particularly well with full-battened mainsails, which tend to stack almost like Venetian blinds.
What I would like is some setup where, with a quick release and minimum of fuss, the lazy jacks, which would normally be stored against the mast, could be deployed in the moments before dousing the mainsail. Then, later, if desired, they could be again easily retracted back to the mast for storage.
I only want/need a simple 2-leg jack system on the boom. Some of the webs of line I see on boats (often small boats, too) seem ridiculous in their complexity, with 23 different legs running every which way. I don't want to replicate Spider-Man.
Anyone have any thoughts on this? Ideas for a setup? I'm only in the beginning of a concept stage, but might like to install them for next season. The only challenge to the system I'd like to have is how to make them easily retractable and setable with a minimum of adjustment or fuss. In an ideal world, I'd like them to magically appear in place just when I needed them, and disappear shortly therefater. Obviously magic is out, so some other sort of basic system is needed.
If you have lazy jacks, I'd love to hear how they're setup (even "regular" ones). And if you have retraction ideas, I'd enjoy hearing them as well.
Lazy Jacks
- Tim
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Lazy Jacks
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to my mind, "retractable" = shock cord.
my gut reaction to your post is to attach a length of shockcord to the crotch of the jumper struts that's just long enough to secure to the boom near the gooseneck under a bit of tension. this line would then be under more tension when you walk it aft and hook it to some whatnot (you've got enough reefing gear to find something back there) on the boom before dropping the main.
I'm sure I'm missing part of the picture, but that seems a simple setup to me.
my gut reaction to your post is to attach a length of shockcord to the crotch of the jumper struts that's just long enough to secure to the boom near the gooseneck under a bit of tension. this line would then be under more tension when you walk it aft and hook it to some whatnot (you've got enough reefing gear to find something back there) on the boom before dropping the main.
I'm sure I'm missing part of the picture, but that seems a simple setup to me.
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Tim, what you are describing sounds an awful lot like the Easy-(or is it E-Z-?)-Jack system. That's what Heather's parents have on Lucky Bear, and it seems pretty slick. I'm sure they'd be happy to show 'em to you. They paid an arm and a leg for what amounted to a few eyes, rings, and line, but I'm sure you could construct your own for under 30 or 40 bucks.
Nathan
dasein668.com
dasein668.com
- Tim
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Indeed. The E-Z Jax were/are a sort of template for my own thoughts. I have a form that I printed off the Internet somewhere; I was going to use the basic idea to make up my own, should I ever get around to it. I certainly have no intention of buying the kit (for $299!!!!!!!!!!!), but copying the basic idea may have merit.
Ez-Jax Systems
I'll have to check out Lucky Bear's setup before making any final decisions.
Ez-Jax Systems
I'll have to check out Lucky Bear's setup before making any final decisions.
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EZJAX
Talk about coincidence, I was just thinking of this while sat on the boat in the rain this last Monday
I too wanted something simple and less expensive then the commercial setups, so I devised this.
1. Add cleat at mast near gooseneck (comfortable height)
2. Run to cheek block 3/4 way up mast or block hanging under spreader about 6" from mast (allows for a slot for the main to fall into)
3. Run line down hypotenuse of imaginary triangle to a cheek block 3/4 way aft on side of boom
4. Run line forward along side of boom to another cheek block maybe 1/4 or 1/3 way along boom
5. Run line up to terminate at block or ring, through which the line in point 3 runs (creating isoceles triangle and two legs of the Jacks).
Repeat on other side of mast
To use :
Tighten both sides at cleat on mast - will form EZ JAX with two legs. Drop sail into slot (or raise sail)
To stow so you can sail :
Ease the line at the cleat, pull the line that forms the hypotenuse to the gooseneck and secure behind the horn, tighten line at cleat. Do same on other side
FRom what I can figure using Ronstan Series 20 blocks and 3/16" line this is about $120.00 retail, most of us have pieces lying around that we could deploy for some or all of this.
What am I missing ??
I posted both active and stowed pictures (sketches) at : http://www.wilme.net/Utility/EZJAX.pdf
Would appreciate the feedback
I too wanted something simple and less expensive then the commercial setups, so I devised this.
1. Add cleat at mast near gooseneck (comfortable height)
2. Run to cheek block 3/4 way up mast or block hanging under spreader about 6" from mast (allows for a slot for the main to fall into)
3. Run line down hypotenuse of imaginary triangle to a cheek block 3/4 way aft on side of boom
4. Run line forward along side of boom to another cheek block maybe 1/4 or 1/3 way along boom
5. Run line up to terminate at block or ring, through which the line in point 3 runs (creating isoceles triangle and two legs of the Jacks).
Repeat on other side of mast
To use :
Tighten both sides at cleat on mast - will form EZ JAX with two legs. Drop sail into slot (or raise sail)
To stow so you can sail :
Ease the line at the cleat, pull the line that forms the hypotenuse to the gooseneck and secure behind the horn, tighten line at cleat. Do same on other side
FRom what I can figure using Ronstan Series 20 blocks and 3/16" line this is about $120.00 retail, most of us have pieces lying around that we could deploy for some or all of this.
What am I missing ??
I posted both active and stowed pictures (sketches) at : http://www.wilme.net/Utility/EZJAX.pdf
Would appreciate the feedback
EZJAX
Talk about coincidence, I was just thinking of this while sat on the boat in the rain this last Monday
I too wanted something simple and less expensive then the commercial setups, so I devised this.
1. Add cleat at mast near gooseneck (comfortable height)
2. Run to cheek block 3/4 way up mast or block hanging under spreader about 6" from mast (allows for a slot for the main to fall into)
3. Run line down hypotenuse of imaginary triangle to a cheek block 3/4 way aft on side of boom
4. Run line forward along side of boom to another cheek block maybe 1/4 or 1/3 way along boom
5. Run line up to terminate at block or ring, through which the line in point 3 runs (creating isoceles triangle and two legs of the Jacks).
Repeat on other side of mast
To use :
Tighten both sides at cleat on mast - will form EZ JAX with two legs. Drop sail into slot (or raise sail)
To stow so you can sail :
Ease the line at the cleat, pull the line that forms the hypotenuse to the gooseneck and secure behind the horn, tighten line at cleat. Do same on other side
FRom what I can figure using Ronstan Series 20 blocks and 3/16" line this is about $120.00 retail, most of us have pieces lying around that we could deploy for some or all of this.
What am I missing ??
I posted both active and stowed pictures (sketches) at : http://www.wilme.net/Utility/EZJAX.pdf
Would appreciate the feedback
I too wanted something simple and less expensive then the commercial setups, so I devised this.
1. Add cleat at mast near gooseneck (comfortable height)
2. Run to cheek block 3/4 way up mast or block hanging under spreader about 6" from mast (allows for a slot for the main to fall into)
3. Run line down hypotenuse of imaginary triangle to a cheek block 3/4 way aft on side of boom
4. Run line forward along side of boom to another cheek block maybe 1/4 or 1/3 way along boom
5. Run line up to terminate at block or ring, through which the line in point 3 runs (creating isoceles triangle and two legs of the Jacks).
Repeat on other side of mast
To use :
Tighten both sides at cleat on mast - will form EZ JAX with two legs. Drop sail into slot (or raise sail)
To stow so you can sail :
Ease the line at the cleat, pull the line that forms the hypotenuse to the gooseneck and secure behind the horn, tighten line at cleat. Do same on other side
FRom what I can figure using Ronstan Series 20 blocks and 3/16" line this is about $120.00 retail, most of us have pieces lying around that we could deploy for some or all of this.
What am I missing ??
I posted both active and stowed pictures (sketches) at : http://www.wilme.net/Utility/EZJAX.pdf
Would appreciate the feedback
- Tim
- Shipwright Extraordinaire
- Posts: 5708
- Joined: Tue Apr 01, 2003 6:39 pm
- Boat Name: Glissando
- Boat Type: Pearson Triton
- Location: Whitefield, ME
- Contact:
Hmm, that looks (and sounds) like a pretty good setup. I think I would choose a simple ring at the point where the line reattaches to itself (forming the point of the triangle), since there's no need for a block there as the lines will not have a need to move at that point. Because we're only talking about lazy jacks here, there's probably hardly a need for any blocks in this simple system--smooth rings or fairleads would probably have little enough friction to allow easy movement when retracting or deploying the system. A block on the mast where the jacks connect might be good, but I don't know if they're needed on the boom or not.
I don't see any reaon why this setup wouldn't work...but I've actually never sailed on a boat that has lazy jacks, so how would I know? :<) Barring anyone else's thoughts on why it wouldn't work (if any), I think I might try that setup for next season.
I don't see any reaon why this setup wouldn't work...but I've actually never sailed on a boat that has lazy jacks, so how would I know? :<) Barring anyone else's thoughts on why it wouldn't work (if any), I think I might try that setup for next season.
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