Paint sprayer recommendations

[Chris Campbell]

I'm starting to research the way I'm going to be getting paint onto my boat (still haven't totally decided on what the paint's going to be, but I'm still leaning toward the System Three WR-LPU stuff), and am finding it to be rather confusing. Here's what I've found:

There is only one reasonable choice for spraying paint: HVLP (high volume low pressure) - it reduced overspray by 80-90%, and produces better results.

There are two ways to go about getting HVLP: a dedicated system with a turbine that produces the air, or a conversion system that takes a normal compressor's high pressure, low volume output and converts it to HVLP.

There are a lot of companies that make products in this space - and remarkably, their web presences all say that they're the best!

The price range for this equipment is huge: you can get a basic system for $100, or spend $2000 without blinking - and if you go with the conversion and a big compressor, even higher.

There are guns with remote cups so you can spray at any angle, and others that have bent tubes that allow you to spray horizontal or down, or horizontal or up, depending on how you orient the tube.

So far I've been thinking of going with the Fuji Mini-Mite 3X system. It is a 3-stage turbine, which means it has enough power to spray water-based paints, which is necessary for the System Three WR-LPU. It's a dedicated system, so I don't need to worry about whether the compressor I'd have to buy is going to have enough juice to drive a conversion system. And it looks competent in it's all-blue box (honest, aren't I?).

But I really have so little to go on here, that I'd LOVE to hear from anyone who's got some experience - is there a reason to go a different route? I notice that Tim's said he's going to move from the dedicated sprayer with turbine to a conversion setup on a conventional compressor - and that he's referred to it as an upgrade. Presumably you think the conversion systems are superior in some way, Tim? Has anyone had any experience with any of these they'd care to share, good or bad? Should I just roll and tip, since I'm clearly clueless about spraying?

Thanks!

Chris

[David]

A drawback to HVLP is that the compressors really can heat up the air arriving at the gun. With LPU paints and especially System Three LPU paint, this can pose a challenge. Different HVLP systems heat the air to varying degrees. So one of the criteria to consider is how much that air is heated.

During warmer weather in Orlando, I run an extra 25 ft of hose coiled into a cooler of ice water when I paint. I'm sure others have different solutions--or maybe it's not a problem for others here. You might read up on HVLP on WoodWeb.

[Tim]

Whatever spray equipment you choose, and whichever paint you use, there will be a substantial learning curve specific to using the chosen paint with the chosen equipment. Each combination will require different techniques, some more successful than others, probably.

Turbine-type stand-along spray equipment works well and is convenient in many ways. The heated air tends to reduce wet time--that is, the time the paint has to self-level and for the atomized material to pull together for that smooth finish--and this can lead to orange peel. Longer air hoses help and should be added to the system, but most of this issue can and should be mitigated with additional reducer over and above the manufacturer's recommendations. This is where the learning curve comes in: experimentation with the equipment and the paint is critical to determine how to fine-tune technique and mix in order to get the best results.

Adding additional reducer, of course, changes the consistency of the paint, and therefore affects the way one needs to spray--thinner paint requires heavier application for coverage, but because it runs easily it can drip and sag more easily, therefore limiting the potential thickness of the wet coat and leading to higher incidence of orange peel.

Learning curve. Give both the spray gun and the paint plenty of practice. Don't expect to hook up one day and get satisfactory results the next.

Unless you want and need and can afford the big compressor, with the big air tank, and all the air filtration you need for quality spray work, I'd suggest that the stand-alone equipment will serve you well, provided you give it (and you) the learning experience it requires.

[Chris Campbell]

Thanks, guys. As usual - no easy answer. I had wondered about the possibility of cooling the air, and coiling it in a bath of icewater sounds like a good way to do it. Easier than setting up an air-to-air intercooler and fan, for sure.

The sense I get is that as long as I take my time and paint a few other things first I'm likely to get a better job spraying on my own than I would roll-and-tipping. But that I shouldn't expect it to be a silver bullet, either.

What sprayer do you use, David? Are you happy with it?

I'm reading all I can find on the web so far - currently in an article on WoodWeb, as it happens. They seem to be raving about a Kremlin system that I'm not going to buy - but also seem to like the Accuspray products (which are Canadian, a plus for me).

We'll see.

Thanks!

[David]

I use a Wagner 2600 system. I'm happy with it.