Removing thru-hulls

[Hulukupu]

I'm trying to remove several old bronze thru-hulls and all the fittings are >1 3/4" (too big for the 15" Crescent Wrench sold at my local stores). I'm not eager to chew the pieces to bits with a pipe wrench. What tood(s) do you folks use?

[Rachel]

I've used the special tool that looks like a wedding cake made of metal (staggered sizes built in). It says to only use it to install, but I'll admit I've "un-installed" with it.

If your through hulls have the little tangs inside (two, 180 degrees apart), then you can perhaps make a metal bar to fit between them (although the tangs have the annoying tendency to break off sometimes.

Lastly, I've seen people grind (carefully) through the mushroom part on the outside (assuming they are that style), and then take the broken bits out.

However, now that I've said all that, and I'm reading through your post again, I wonder if you mean seacocks instead of through hulls? (Since they have a hex fitting on them.)

If so... large channel locks? Or, I've used a sort of offset small pipe wrench (not sure what it's called) when tightening the pipe-to-hose connectors onto the seacocks (the seacocks I removed were old gate valves so I didn't care at that point about rounding over).

[bcooke]

Ford wrench. Like a pipe wrench but without the teeth.

Or, measure the nut and buy the wrench.

Cheap short handles wrenches can be bought in large sizes without going with the $75 dollar a piece Snap-Off variety. They work but they don't have tons of torque and are not particularly comfortable.

Or, wrap your large channel lock jaws in tape to cover the teeth.

Or, live with a few teeth marks.

Or ...

[LazyGuy]

When I repowered, I tried getting the old valves off. After loosing most of the skin on my knuckles and not getting the first one off I broke out the grinder and ground the heads off the through hulls. It was much, much easier. I highly recommend it. If you want to re-use the valve, you can use heat and a vice to get the old bronze through hull out of the vavle.

[Quetzalsailor]

Buy the tool. Borrow the tool.

I've pulled and replaced all through hulls and seacocks on two boats, so appearance wasn't the concern; progress and ease was.

The tapered slotted through hull tool is only useful for reassembly; the lugs sheer off the inside of the through hull without much provocation.

Applying enough force is often an issue given the small spaces these things are hidden within. A collection of pipe wrenches and lengths of PVC pipe is useful. When the wrong things turn, break out the drill and the grinder and remove the head from outside. (Mine were all the flush type so more time and more care is required).

Lots more chatter on this site about this issue; lots of us have been there!

[Hulukupu]

My large channel-locks didn't hold when I tried them, but that may be operator skill.

I found that an old bronze winch handle fits perfectly in the thru-hull to engage and hold the lugs. I used it with a Crescent wrench for torque- so far no broken lugs.

I had never heard or seen a "Ford Wrench" before, but pics of it are just what I was hoping for- something adjustable without teeth- thanks!

[bcooke]

A Ford wrench



A quick Google search shows them being sold all over the place.

[Hulukupu]

Thanks, Britton. I should have added that the Ford wrench can handle 3"+ nuts, etc.

[Zach]

If you have a bench grinder and some calipers, you can make a one off tool pretty quick.

I've had a success cutting a square length of hardwood just a smidge smaller than the inside diameter of the through hull to catch the two tits. (Had a band saw and no metal working tools... grin.) Keep the length short, and grab the wood with a pipe wrench. I don't see why a hunk of steel square tube wouldn't do the same trick for loosening them up alone.

Also, spend a lot of time really cleaning up the threads before you drag whatever crud/prehistoric compound under the nut. I've got one that I buggered up, still stewing over what I'll do to fix it. (2 1/2 inch diameter... $$$!)

Zach