Cleaning epoxy dipped tools.

Zach · Post by **Zach** » Tue Apr 01, 2008 6:29 pm

Hi guys,

I've been fighting a battle with epoxy coated spreaders and rollers. It seems I can make the stickiest mess with a roll of paper towels, a gallon of acetone and a few ounces of epoxy.

How do you guys and gals do it, or does cleaning up require a roll of paper towels, and epoxy smudges everywhere?

In my quest for methods, I came across this product made by Epoxy Products. Anyone tried it? I like the words "reuseable" and "dissolves non-cured epoxy..." But it sure would stink if it effects the strength!

TA 661: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/8_misc.html

"A solvent free alternative to lacquer thinner or MEK for cleaning uncured epoxy off hands and tools. Soak your epoxy covered brushes, etc. in TA 661 overnight and they will be ready to reuse in the morning. Non evaporating (no need to cover your 'soaking pot'), reuse over and over. Works on uncured epoxy, but have had some reports of it success with 'just recently hard' epoxy too.

Also use as a flexibilizer in other epoxies - will also blister dried enamel and varnish overnight.

I also use it as the final step in cleaning brushes (enamels, latex, polyurethane, even epoxy). No matter how much a solvent (or water) rinse my paintbrushes after use, when I get back to them they are hard and stiff. Now I dip or soak the 'so-called' clean brush in the TA then shake or spin the TA out of the brush. The result is a non-stiff, non-sticky, non-oily brush ready for use on my next project.

It gets even better! I finally found a way to reuse brushes full of epoxy resin (instead of tossing the brush after every epoxy 'encounter'. When you are done with the epoxy - squeeze out as much of the epoxy from the brush as you can. Then rinse brush once or twice with sovlent. Now put the brush into a jar of TA 661. The TA will not evaporate so you don't need a lid on the jar. When you return at a later time pull out the brush - squeeze/spin the TA 661 out of the brush. You now have a clean soft brush ready for the next batch of epoxy."

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Tue Apr 01, 2008 7:46 pm

white vinegar. Slotted rollers, brushes, metal tools squeegees, filleting tools. Hands- but I'm ALWAYS wearing gloves so seldom have it on hands.

I cut all rollers to 3 inch lengths, use them once or twice and chunk 'em. Most are beginning to come apart by then anyway.

If I'm going to reuse the roller or brush the next day I wrap it in a plastic bag and stick it in the freezer. That'll hold it for a day or two, but it will eventually harden even in there.

Post by **Tim** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 6:11 am

I have a washing tank filled with acetone where I soak the tools, including brushes and wooden stir sticks. It lasts a long time (of course the cover is critical), and works even when it gets disgusting. I'm comfortable continuing to use acetone for most of my cleaning needs.

With time and experience, you learn how to get around the boat with sticky epoxy gloves without touching everything. Little drips and hand marks happen, but are easy to remove as long as you're paying attention during the process and don't let them cure.

My only experience with acetone-replacement products similar to the one you are describing was many years ago, and I recall the product not working very well. But a lot happens in 18 years or so, so don't let that be your guide. I'd be much more inclined to suggest white vinegar if you're looking for an acetone replacement.

Hirilondë · Post by **Hirilondë** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 6:36 am

Add mineral spirits and alcohol to the cleaning solvents list. I use alcohol a lot at work as it evaporates quickly and is safe on most materials. I would be tempted to use vinegar if our parts dept. stocked it.

Quetzalsailor · Post by **Quetzalsailor** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 11:49 am

Wear the gloves. Cheap at your local medical supply.
I toss the roller covers, foam and fiber brushes: life's too short.
I wipe tools and self where ungloved with lacquer thinner. The thinner is supposed to be bad for you, though; it's transdermal.
I have a plethora of stir sticks, some shaped for filleting, and simply grind them back to shape.
I've recently learned to mask adjacent places with the blue tape and newspaper. (yeah, yeah)
Heat gun works well to make scraping excess off of the work and off some tools.

I've had no success whatsoever with WEST's cleaner. I haven't tried acetic acid (vinegar).

Post by **Tim** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 12:08 pm

Another tip for staying cleaner--personally and your environs--is to put on two pair of latex gloves (or nitrile if you're allergic to latex), one over the other. The gloves are thin enough that you don't notice the extra pair, but if you get messy you can easily strip off the dirty outer pair and continue working with the inner, cleaner pair. This is extremely handy (no pun intended) and I do it routinely.

Fiberglass work is, at best, messy. It need not be a disaster, though, nor a federal case.

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 5:34 pm

Tim wrote: Fiberglass work is, at best, messy. It need not be a disaster, though, nor a federal case.

Especially when working with matt!! I sometimes have felt my hands were big sticky balls of random glass fibers.

Hey Tim- I used to make a screen of really small rabbit wire mesh to put in the bottom of the acetone container about 1/2 inch up- lets the solids settle under the acetone and keeps the ends of brushes cleaner. Ever try that?

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 5:39 pm

Especially when working with matt!!

Real men and women don't use matt. Nasty stuff.

:-P

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 8:16 pm

People laying up 3/8 inch thick new additions to cabin structures do, such as when I reduced my companionway from 32 x 32 down to 24 X 24 and added a seahood.

Alternate layers of matt and roving, topped with 10 oz cloth.

Rachel · Post by **Rachel** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 9:33 pm

Did he just call you a sissy?

If it's any consolation, he's irked with me too. I need to make progress on my project so I can post an update.

I did use just a touch of matt though...

;)

R.

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 9:50 pm

ROFL- He should see my latest drivers license photo. Laura says "I don't know that mean SOB"

Grin

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Wed Apr 02, 2008 11:53 pm

Alternate layers of matt and roving, topped with 10 oz cloth.

I thought they quit doing that when biax was invented. I haven't read anything about that since the eighties.

Glad someone is keeping the old fashioned skills and techniques alive :-P

Quetzalsailor · Post by **Quetzalsailor** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:57 am

I thought mat was used for the first lamina inside the gelcoat to reduce telegraphing and on cold bonding to get a better amount of glass against the previously laid up, rough surface, and the new roving. Otherwise it's just a quick way to get thickness but not so densely fibered as roving would give. Does not new roving on new roving just nestle together adequately to get density?

It's certainly really miserable to work with!

Tim's double glove idea is good, though I'd personally hate the reduced 'touch'. I try to use a willing accomplice to pull and replace gloves. (She remains more willing when she's not in the goo, herself.) The plumbers who worked on a certain blocked pipe in our house routinely used multiple gloves - 5 or 6 - and removed each as it became lacerated, but running a roto-rooter isn't delicate work.

Zach · Post by **Zach** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 7:55 pm

Thanks guys!

I learn so much around here.

The whole question was brought on after I stood on the cooking isle of the grocery store in awe of the flexible plastic 12x15 chopping mats. Great for wetting out, but not so hot when the goop from the last batch is setting up while wetting out on top. The acetone just made it goopier (if its not a word, it should be... grin!) when you guys are wetting out do ya just keep wetting out on the same surface and peel off and stick? I keep running into vertical oriented projects, and don't feel real comfortable wetting out in situ.

I gave double gloving a try today, but didn't get the second set on. I guess some talcum powder is necessary to keep the gloves from sticking together... A little in a glove lets you get them back on your hands to recycle after they are all damp inside, should work for doubles... ? (Been experimenting with the fiberglass tube project!)

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:32 pm

do ya just keep wetting out on the same surface and peel off and stick?

yup. Every couple of weeks I have a new piece of modern art to sell.

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:00 pm

lol- Bcooke- it's an old boat and I'm and old guy, so why not use the old ways?

Grin

Quetzalsailor- that's exactly how it's used in layups. Many builders of small glass boats use nothing BUT matt, except where heavy internal reinforcing is required. I personally don't like roving to roving in more than two layers. I think it tends towards being resin rich that way. I'll almost always use a layer of matt in between.

Zach · Post by **Zach** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 11:23 pm

Yeah... So far I've found mat and finishing cloth only on Pylasteki. Quite surprising!

Britton... Thats just wrong. Funny... Reminds me of pulling off some tabbing by hand going... "I sure hope the whole boat isn't stuck together like that!" Look at all the funky shapes, all greenish and translucent. (This boat restoration thing is an addiction!)

Figment · Post by **Figment** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 9:39 am

Zach wrote: The whole question was brought on after I stood on the cooking isle of the grocery store in awe of the flexible plastic 12x15 chopping mats....

This is tickling the edge of a thought I've been chewing on recently.

Anyone else cooking on those Sil-Pat silicone sheets? Man I'm telling you absolutely NOTHING sticks to those. I've been thinking that it would make a great wet-out surface, the cured resin probably jumps right off the next day.

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 9:55 am

(This boat restoration thing is an addiction!)

Yup.

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 9:57 am

it's an old boat and I'm and old guy, so why not use the old ways?

If it ain't broke, why fix it?

Zach · Post by **Zach** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 11:55 am

Figment wrote:
Zach wrote: The whole question was brought on after I stood on the cooking isle of the grocery store in awe of the flexible plastic 12x15 chopping mats....
This is tickling the edge of a thought I've been chewing on recently.

Anyone else cooking on those Sil-Pat silicone sheets? Man I'm telling you absolutely NOTHING sticks to those. I've been thinking that it would make a great wet-out surface, the cured resin probably jumps right off the next day.

Begs the question of those silicone bowls they sell at the camping store, or for making bread too. Mix up the resin in something that will pop it right back out without cracking or imparting flakes in the next batch. (Grin!)

LazyGuy · Post by **LazyGuy** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 5:36 pm

bcooke,

Nice! I have heard of people increasing head room by lowering the sole. Add a couple of steps to the ladder and you have standing headroom until you are well into the vee berth.

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 6:28 pm

You only forget that extra big step once...

I admit, I really liked the headroom going forward into the lower forward section.

-Britton

Post by **Tim** » Tue Apr 08, 2008 9:25 am

Figment wrote:
Zach wrote: The whole question was brought on after I stood on the cooking isle of the grocery store in awe of the flexible plastic 12x15 chopping mats....
This is tickling the edge of a thought I've been chewing on recently.

Anyone else cooking on those Sil-Pat silicone sheets? Man I'm telling you absolutely NOTHING sticks to those. I've been thinking that it would make a great wet-out surface, the cured resin probably jumps right off the next day.

Maybe a good thought, but is there any (any) chance of contamination from that silicone crud? I wouldn't want to risk it without being 100% sure. Because as we know, silicone is ____________(fill in the blank).

I always use cardboard, which I always have around. I have one piece that I love that has sides on it (part of a box that held a metal screen door), which I use all the time. I scrape off the excess resin when I'm done so that the surface remains smooth.

CharlieJ · Post by **CharlieJ** » Tue Apr 08, 2008 2:27 pm

I often use a well waxed ( mold release wax) sheet of formica. Epoxy just pops right back off.

Tony · Post by **Tony** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:27 pm

Who's this Matt, guy, anyway?

bcooke · Post by **bcooke** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 10:32 am

I am sorry, I slipped into the french language spelling by mistake...

:-P