Deck Hardware

This is the place to post your ideas, thoughts, questions and comments as relates to general boatbuilding and reconstruction techniques and procedures (i.e. recoring, epoxy, fiberglass, wood, etc.)
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sscoll
Master Varnisher
Posts: 116
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 8:26 am
Boat Name: Medora Jane
Boat Type: Pearson Triton #532 E.C.
Location: Wisconsin

Deck Hardware

Post by sscoll »

I'm wondering if anyone has gone to a fixed attachment point for hanging jib sheet blocks. Having removed practically all of the deck hardware from my Triton I'm not inclined to put any back that isn't truly necessary. The genoa track collects dirt, I'd just as soon leave it off.

I'm not too fussy about fine tuning the rig, past a certain point, not being a racer.

I haven't put the life lines back either, Hell Debbie took hers off before sailing to Hawaii.

I'm thinking a pad eye should suffice for a snatch block with the jib sheets.

Anyone have an opinion?
Zach
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Re: Deck Hardware

Post by Zach »

You can do it, but you'll want a pad eye on the deck or cabin side to bring the block in from the rail with a big genoa to get some sheeting angle back, where the line runs up to the block and back down to the rail with a fixed eye or loop in the center.

Genoa tracks are a pain, but the spring loaded track cars and blocks make life a bit easier than a soft line rig as the trip hazard stays in the same spot and takes up less space.

Zach
1961 Pearson Triton
http://pylasteki.blogspot.com/
1942 Coast Guard Cutter - Rebuild
http://83footernoel.blogspot.com/
Figment
Damned Because It's All Connected
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Boat Name: Triton
Boat Type: Grand Banks 42
Location: L.I. Sound

Re: Deck Hardware

Post by Figment »

I went through the same "minimize deck clutter" exercise after I recored my decks, I understand where you're coming from, but really... reinstall the tracks.

It's easier on the deck, spreads the load over more area and more fasteners.

It's easier on the sail, you'll be able to set the angle properly rather than overtensioning the foot while the leech flutters, or vice versa. Racing v cruising has nothing to do with it, a properly set sail is a properly set sail.

It's also much easier to tweak the sheeting angle as the sail shape changes over the years, rather than having the sail recut every other season.
galleywench
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Re: Deck Hardware

Post by galleywench »

I am going through the same thing myself and I'm not really looking forward to putting more holes back in the boat, but ultimately, Figment is correct. A properly trimmed sail is a properly trimmed sail and you need to have the ability to make adjustments to get the most out of your boat (you don't have to be a racer to want to have a properly trimmed boat). The point load caused by a single block is another good consideration.

I'm not sure how long your track is, but the one I pulled off before I re-cored was 6' (Alberg 35) and all but the forward 2 feet was unused by me. Of course the boat is roller furling and hasn't seen a big genoa in years. Your sail inventory may be able to dictate how short your track can be; so if you have a single roller furling jib, you can get away with a smaller track than you would if you are a 'hank-on' kind of person with your v-berth stuffed with everything from a storm jib to a big 160 genoa.
1963 Rhodes 19 #731
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sscoll
Master Varnisher
Posts: 116
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 8:26 am
Boat Name: Medora Jane
Boat Type: Pearson Triton #532 E.C.
Location: Wisconsin

Re: Deck Hardware

Post by sscoll »

I'll go with that reasoning and reinstall the tracks. I am a hank on person but sleep in the V berth. On a Triton that berth is really big. My hanging locker is for sails and I only carry four.

After installing forward lowers and moving the chainplates overboard I'm enjoying clean decks. Tomorrow I'll do lifelines and tracks.

After I put the boat in two weeks ago I tried sailing with a 150 run directly to the winches. It doesn't work that way, I learned that pretty fast.

Thanks for your points.
sscoll
Master Varnisher
Posts: 116
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 8:26 am
Boat Name: Medora Jane
Boat Type: Pearson Triton #532 E.C.
Location: Wisconsin

Re: Deck Hardware

Post by sscoll »

So much for life lines, it took all day to put on the tracks. They're about three feet each. I used a forstner bit to drill the top skin and balsa to a half inch diameter then filled with thickened epoxy followed by a quarter inch bit and quarter/twenty machine screws holding the tracks in place bedded in butyl tape. This is the sort of work where a second pair of hands would have come in handy.

Looking forward to actually sailing tomorrow after I get the lights working. Its been a year and a half.
Figment
Damned Because It's All Connected
Posts: 2845
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Boat Name: Triton
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Re: Deck Hardware

Post by Figment »

Well, there's part of the beauty of butyl.... it can be a month or so later when you finally have a second hand around to hold the heads steady while you set the nuts home underneath, the sealant doesn't care.
sscoll
Master Varnisher
Posts: 116
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2009 8:26 am
Boat Name: Medora Jane
Boat Type: Pearson Triton #532 E.C.
Location: Wisconsin

Re: Deck Hardware

Post by sscoll »

I've a few pictures I'd like to post but don't know how to do it. Can anyone lead me through posting pictures? Thanks.
mdidriksen
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Re: Deck Hardware

Post by mdidriksen »

I use a photobucket account to upload the picture to. Then in your post where you want the picture to go, hit the "Img" button above the box where you are typing and then paste a direct link to the picture (which photobucket will give you if you click on the setting button on a picture) in between the bracketed items that appear when you clicked on the Img button. In the text it will look like this: [img]http:.....[/img] but in the post it will appear as a picture. Use the preview button to see how it looks before posting.
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