high build epoxy primers

[windrose]

Help! My old Triton (#215, 1963) has lots of deck crazing, I am planning to use a high build epoxy primer and then paint. It will all be rolled/tipped.

Can some of you more experienced folks offer insight or suggest a brand/product. Thanks for the tips.

[Tim]

All of the Awlgrip High-Build primers are for spray application only, so those wouldn't work. Awl-Quik (by Awlgrip) is a high-build epoxy primer that can be brushed, but my own experiences with it have been difficult and I would only use it as a last resort.

It tends to be frustratingly non-leveling, which means you need to apply many coats in order to allow the necessary sanding to smooth out the brush marks. It does work better if you roll only and don't tip, but on a deck you'll need a brush somewhere. Still, this could minimize the problem.

Awl-Quik does a fair job of hiding small cracks and minor crazing. For more significant problems, you'll need another surfacing product. Awlgrip makes several surfacers that you might look into.

I don't know offhand whether the mere mortal paints (Interlux, Petit) offer high build primers or not. Maybe someone else knows.

[windrose]

Tim, thanks.... there is so much info out there that it is very confusing. Anybody else tried either of the "mere mortal" paints?

[Jason K]

I know this is an old post, but I am at exactly the same point in my project. Does anyone have experience with a high build primer product that will hide the "alligatoring" on the deck and that can be applied with brush and roller?

Windrose, what did you end up using? Did it work?

Thanks in advance.

[David]

I have been using System Three's WR-155 water based epoxy primer. It has very nice leveling characteristics for brushing and sands well. I would certainly give it a try.

http://www.systemthree.com/p_wr_155.asp

Good luck with your decks,

David

[Tim]

Does anyone have experience with a high build primer product that will hide the "alligatoring" on the deck and that can be applied with brush and roller?

High build primers are worth a try, but depending how bad your "alligatoring" is, be prepared for mixed results in hiding capability from only using a primer. Don't expect any paint to truly hide the problem forever, but it may help in the shorter term.

Severe crazing may call for more significant repair procedures in order to stabilize and hide significant cracking and "alligatoring". Each case is different, but even small, all-over crazing will tend to print through all types of primers and paints over time. The extent to which the print throgh occurs depends on the depth of the cracking and many other factors, but the reoccurence is almost inevitable, lacking a more significant repair.

Check out the fiberglass overlay we did on Dasein, #668, this winter. With luck, this substantial, labor-intensive process will hide the severe crazing for years to come.

[Jason K]

I was afraid you were going to say that!

The bulk of the crazing is in the nonskid - the coachroof and most of the cockpit looks fine. I'm hoping a primer overkill and several coats of nonskid will be sufficient. I'm not really expecting perfect; I do have a time and financial budget** - AND I WANT TO GO SAILING!


** Actually, I used to have a budget - right now it's damage control...

[Tim]

The nonskid is much easier to deal with. If your "smooth" areas aren't too bad, then a high-build primer will work fairly well.

Nonskid paint hides many flaws by its own nature, and is easier to repaint later should it become necessary, so there is no harm in high-building the nonskid and hoping for the best. That's probably the right call in your case.

[greg phillips]

Many years ago I built a semi-dory to a Glen L Marine design. I was short on money and the plans called for alot of plwood. I was having a difficult time filling all of the cracking and crazing in the outer plies as I was prepping for a coat of Petit EZpoxy. In desparation I added microballoons to the primer I was using(probably Kilz!!) and it worked like a charm. The plywood sanded to a smoothness like Formica and it held up well under the Ezpoxy.
I'm not advocating the mis matching of primers and finish paints, but I found success "fortifying" a primer with lightweight micro balloons. Its something you may want to experiment with.

Greg Phillips

[Tim]

Interesting thought--definitely something to keep in mind.