Which veneer glue for marine use
Which veneer glue for marine use
When adding a decorative veneer to a plywood panel on a boat, what type of glue do you use? Epoxy would be my natural choise, but it seems that it would be hard to get thin veneer to lay down smoothly with epoxy, since a roller or scraper would force most of the epoxy out of the joint. I have used Titan DX a lot in the past, but it seems a water based contact cement isn't the best idea on a boat. Thanks in advance.
-
- Master of the Arcane
- Posts: 1100
- Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2005 9:53 am
- Boat Name: Quetzal
- Boat Type: LeComte North East 38
- Location: Philadelphia, PA
Re: Which veneer glue for marine use
I have reveneered a Flying Dutchman (all 20 x 6 feet of it) ( http://s278.photobucket.com/albums/kk90 ... 0Dutchman/ ). I have also done minor reveneering of a boat countertop. Both in epoxy and using West's reddish microballoons for the filler (the red doesn't look so bad with the mahogany). The game is the clamping while waiting for the epoxy to cure.
Simple small shapes, I just ballast or clamp between flat surfaces. Anything is fair game but the limitations of clamping are depth and backer blocking and for ballast are horizontal, flat surfaces, backer, and weight available. For the FD hull, I used 1000s of staples through sacrificial strips of veneer, taking care to have the rectangular section of the staple's legs aligned with the grain. Filler of epoxy with Mahogany dust made the 1000s X 2 of staple holes disappear.
Contact cement will work well. It's not water soluble (or at least it wasn't). I have had some of my old veneer work shrink and check; the contact cement is not really hard.
Simple small shapes, I just ballast or clamp between flat surfaces. Anything is fair game but the limitations of clamping are depth and backer blocking and for ballast are horizontal, flat surfaces, backer, and weight available. For the FD hull, I used 1000s of staples through sacrificial strips of veneer, taking care to have the rectangular section of the staple's legs aligned with the grain. Filler of epoxy with Mahogany dust made the 1000s X 2 of staple holes disappear.
Contact cement will work well. It's not water soluble (or at least it wasn't). I have had some of my old veneer work shrink and check; the contact cement is not really hard.
-
- Master of the Arcane
- Posts: 1317
- Joined: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:50 am
- Boat Name: Hirilondë
- Boat Type: 1967 Pearson Renegade
- Location: Charlestown, RI
Re: Which veneer glue for marine use
For cosmetic veneer, where getting wet will be minimal I use contact cement. It is a lot easier than epoxy as no clamping is needed. It is water proof, although it won't stand up over the long haul if constant soaking or submersion occurs. I know nothing about Titan DX, but just because a product is water based doesn't necessarily mean it isn't waterproof when cured.
Dave Finnegan
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
builder of Spindrift 9N #521 'Wingë'
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gresham’s Law of information: Bad information drives out good. No matter how long ago a correction for a particular error may have appeared in print or online, it never seems to catch up with the ever-widening distribution of the error.
-
- Rough Carpentry Apprentice
- Posts: 64
- Joined: Fri Sep 29, 2006 10:58 am
- Location: Sheridan, Wyoming
Re: Which veneer glue for marine use
I used Tightbond II a waterproof white glue applied to both surfaces. Once the glue was dry the pieces were bonded together with a hot iron which re-activated the glue. This made alighnment very easy and I was very pleased with the product. I then coated the edges with epoxy and laid on several coats of epifanis varnish on the face then screwed the venered pannels to the fiberglass cabin sides. This is a standard method in cabinate making.
Cheoy Lee Frisco Flyer "work in progress"