1963 Pearson Ariel #97 Recore
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- Deck Grunge Scrubber
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1963 Pearson Ariel #97 Recore
I wanted to share my pain with all/any who venture benteth the skin of a neglected boat.
Here's the Story of my pain (exgerated) and pictures to boot :)
The original endgrain Balsa core had been long since rotted and in desprated need of replacement, both sides where identical as far as how much had gone soft and degree.
Previous Owners had left me with presents on both sides, it's apparent the tried a recore, but in-lieu-of core they used epoxy . . . straight epoxy, my guess about 1 gallon of it, grind grind grind . . .
Grind, scrape, sand, sweep, ahh that looks good, ready for core . . .
Core? yes I did replace endgrain balsa with endgrain balsa, people who have been in the bussiness for longer then I have been alive had a strong argument that it is good stuff . . . oh and it was free :)
A belt sander worked great to level and shave the balsa core.
I chose the vacuum bag, for greater pressure imparted on the core, both sides were bagged, I can't stress enough that all edges and exposed existing core, as well as any holes made in the underskin, must be sealed, or the pump wont keep up with the leaks.
Post bagging and I had begun filling the gaps in the core, The gaps were left intentionally, my logic was that if a leak devloped and began migrating within the core, the "dam" between the core sections would mitgate the damage.
Here's the Story of my pain (exgerated) and pictures to boot :)
The original endgrain Balsa core had been long since rotted and in desprated need of replacement, both sides where identical as far as how much had gone soft and degree.
Previous Owners had left me with presents on both sides, it's apparent the tried a recore, but in-lieu-of core they used epoxy . . . straight epoxy, my guess about 1 gallon of it, grind grind grind . . .
Grind, scrape, sand, sweep, ahh that looks good, ready for core . . .
Core? yes I did replace endgrain balsa with endgrain balsa, people who have been in the bussiness for longer then I have been alive had a strong argument that it is good stuff . . . oh and it was free :)
A belt sander worked great to level and shave the balsa core.
I chose the vacuum bag, for greater pressure imparted on the core, both sides were bagged, I can't stress enough that all edges and exposed existing core, as well as any holes made in the underskin, must be sealed, or the pump wont keep up with the leaks.
Post bagging and I had begun filling the gaps in the core, The gaps were left intentionally, my logic was that if a leak devloped and began migrating within the core, the "dam" between the core sections would mitgate the damage.
1963 Pearson Ariel hull #97
Susquehanna River / Chesapeake Bay
HdG, MD
Susquehanna River / Chesapeake Bay
HdG, MD
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- Deck Grunge Scrubber
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I chose to lay new glass versus reusing the old skins, 12 inch "tape" was really nice, not havint to deal with the frayed edges, but the edges of the tape were thicker then the glass, and created gaps, may want to cut it so it layes better then next layer, move the seam so thay are not stacked.
Seal the core, of as the day heats up, the wood outgasses and bubbles, Oh the bubbles, more sanding and filling and another layer of glass, try for a day where the temp doesnt change from cool to hot, and cloudy, my theroy is the UV helped kick the top of the skin sealing in the air.
The better you prep and fair the cored the less you will have to do on top of the glass.
Seal the core, of as the day heats up, the wood outgasses and bubbles, Oh the bubbles, more sanding and filling and another layer of glass, try for a day where the temp doesnt change from cool to hot, and cloudy, my theroy is the UV helped kick the top of the skin sealing in the air.
The better you prep and fair the cored the less you will have to do on top of the glass.
1963 Pearson Ariel hull #97
Susquehanna River / Chesapeake Bay
HdG, MD
Susquehanna River / Chesapeake Bay
HdG, MD
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- Deck Grunge Scrubber
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Re: 1963 Pearson Ariel #97 Recore
Awwww. Wasn't that sweet of them?ArielHull97 wrote:Previous Owners had left me with presents on both sides, it's apparent the tried a recore, but in-lieu-of core they used epoxy . . . straight epoxy, my guess about 1 gallon of it, grind grind grind . . .
End grain balsa is good stuff. Keep the water out and it will last just about forever.ArielHull97 wrote:Core? yes I did replace endgrain balsa with endgrain balsa, people who have been in the bussiness for longer then I have been alive had a strong argument that it is good stuff . . . oh and it was free :)
Thanks for the pics. Looks like you're doing great work. And welcome to the forum!
Nathan
dasein668.com
dasein668.com
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- Deck Grunge Scrubber
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- Deck Grunge Scrubber
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Dirty, dust, crap shoot of a job and why is it I'm doing all this?? Should have left that mushy core there. From mushy core to lets repaint the decks, while where at it lets do the topsides, oh we need new nav lights, new chain plates, new staniding rigging . . talk about snow ball.
1963 Pearson Ariel hull #97
Susquehanna River / Chesapeake Bay
HdG, MD
Susquehanna River / Chesapeake Bay
HdG, MD
- Ceasar Choppy
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- Location: Port Starboard, MD
- Ceasar Choppy
- Boat Obsession Medal Finalist
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- Location: Port Starboard, MD
I've been called "Resin Head" before.Lloyd wrote:The snow ball effect is what set me back on my Bristol 27 project. It has taken me years to decide to continue on with it. I am glad I did. I love it. That said with epoxy dripping off everything as I am trying to get balsa core laid in.
Luckily I can't remember the Sweater Song. But I do remember Safety Dance.... Damn you Tim!
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Awwww, man! Remeber when MTV was FUN?#218 wrote:Did someone say...Safety Dance?
Now that we've hijacked this thread....
Nathan
dasein668.com
dasein668.com
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- mishnish
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What is going on with all this talk of "Saftey Dance" !??!!?! I can't get it out of my head now for love nor money!!!
http://www.contradanza.co.uk - The restoration of a Vivacity 20, Aberdeen, Scotland.
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Are you my corsican twin.....
I am doing almost the exact same thing to a Columbia 40. We attempted to recored and gave up and are completely rebuilding the decks. This past week she looked more strange than I could have imagined. A hull, a cabin top, and no decks. just bare bulkheads to look at.
just had to comiserate as I couldn't stand the pain any longer...
best of luck
Chris
just had to comiserate as I couldn't stand the pain any longer...
best of luck
Chris
Chris,
You've come to the right place for commiseration and camaraderie, especially if you start a thread for your project (and include lots of photos). I can safely speak for the group when I say that we'd love to see what you're up to on your Columbia, especially when what you're describing sounds like such a juicy project :-)
Rachel
You've come to the right place for commiseration and camaraderie, especially if you start a thread for your project (and include lots of photos). I can safely speak for the group when I say that we'd love to see what you're up to on your Columbia, especially when what you're describing sounds like such a juicy project :-)
Rachel
Ahem.... Bronze! Beautiful, classic, non-rusting bronze :-)bcooke wrote:But what about those damn inevitable rust stains down the side of the hull?...
I have the calculations for "converting" from stainless to bronze chainplates, but they're on my home computer. As I remember it, they would not be a whole lot beefier for our size boat.
Rachel
:bronze freak:
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Oooh?
I'd like to install them to widen the side decks by 3 inches, and along with a little bit wider spreaders... no more limbo on the way to the fore deck. (GRIN!)
That and the reading I've done makes me believe they are stronger for the long range cruising... and perhaps even easier to seal. (I struggle with this, as my chain plates have yet to go under, while the lower holes of these would be submerged on a fair weather sail.
I'd like to install them to widen the side decks by 3 inches, and along with a little bit wider spreaders... no more limbo on the way to the fore deck. (GRIN!)
That and the reading I've done makes me believe they are stronger for the long range cruising... and perhaps even easier to seal. (I struggle with this, as my chain plates have yet to go under, while the lower holes of these would be submerged on a fair weather sail.
I think the reason they are easier to seal (even though they contact the water more) is that wherever chain plates are actually bolted, they are basically unmoving (or should be!).Zach wrote:... and perhaps even easier to seal. (I struggle with this, as my chain plates have yet to go under, while the lower holes of these would be submerged on a fair weather sail.
The "holes" for chainplates that are hull-mounted are the actual bolt holes, and don't move. The "holes" (slots) that you seal with deck mounted chainplates are not the actual bolt holes (those are on the bulkheads or on a knee, etc. belowdecks), and so the chainplates "work" where they pass through through the deck slots. Thus they are harder to seal than the "fixed" holes on the hull would be.
We had (OEM) hull-mounted chainplates on the cruising boat, and they were submerged often, as the boat had low freeboard and liked to heel; yet they never leaked. I'm not saying you should change to hull mounted chainplates though, as that's a personal choice, but I will recommend bronze ;-)
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