Building a Hatch

This is the place to post your ideas, thoughts, questions and comments as relates to general boatbuilding and reconstruction techniques and procedures (i.e. recoring, epoxy, fiberglass, wood, etc.)
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cliffg
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Building a Hatch

Post by cliffg »

Below is a link to an article about building a hatch. I read it several times and can't quite grasp how this works. (Admittedly I am LD!) I'm sure others here can figure this out and hopefully illuminate me.


http://216.70.54.78/newspics/charts/856 ... atches.pdf
[/url]
Figment
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Post by Figment »

This might help. Neither the text nor the illustration are completely clear about what is hatch and what is coaming or frame.
Image

It seems like a good system, if a bit on the clunky side. For a 20" clear opening you need a 24" hatch
cliffg
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Great Help

Post by cliffg »

Thanks! That makes more sense now. But...one more question. So you have a channel for the water, but where does it go? Would you leave the low end open or drill weep holes (that's what they'd be called in construciton, maybe limber holes in a boat application)? I have to/want to replace my hatch, in order to install a manufactured one I'd have to do some surgery on the deck, which I don't really want to do. So this idea struck me as a possibility, not sure though.
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Rachel
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Post by Rachel »

Charlie Jones, who posts here regularly (but who is off cruising until the end of this month) has built a couple (or more) of the Griffiths' hatches, and is a big fan. I'm sure he'll chime in when he returns.

I *think* I have some photos/sketches that he sent me - I'll look for them and check to see if I have anything that would help to illustrate it better.

--- R.
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mishnish
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Post by mishnish »

I was shown the routering sequence for the custom flush hatches that spirit build into their yachts and could probably draw a diagram if coerced. This hatch I reckon would be very easy to replicate and looks great too. perhaps the channel design ideas presented here might prove useful to you?

Image

Image
http://www.contradanza.co.uk - The restoration of a Vivacity 20, Aberdeen, Scotland.
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Tim
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Post by Tim »

mishnish wrote:I was shown the routering sequence for the custom flush hatches that spirit build into their yachts and could probably draw a diagram if coerced.
So, what does it take to coerce you? I'd be intersted in learning more about that hatch design--it's clean and attractive.
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dasein668
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Post by dasein668 »

coerce.
coerce.

coercecoerce.
grampianman
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Hatch drawing/diagram

Post by grampianman »

Perhaps if coerce is used with please? I've always found that to be useful, but then I wuz brought up proper-like.

Please, consider yourself coerced, Mishnish!

Cheers,
Ian
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Post by dasein668 »

Coerce and please don't really go together in my book.

Perhaps, ask nicely? But that's definitely different than coerce!

;-P
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mishnish
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Post by mishnish »

I consider myself coerced! Just uploading the drawing now... stand by
http://www.contradanza.co.uk - The restoration of a Vivacity 20, Aberdeen, Scotland.
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mishnish
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Post by mishnish »

Ok here goes:

Image

This is the cross section of the above pictured hatches. As you can see its really simple and could be routered up out of a hard wood very nicely. Also you could add your own touches to the basic profile here as you see fit. The frame, ie the wood would be no problem at all, and I reckon a pair of surface hinges like the ones above wouldnt be too hard to procure. The handle is another matter. Im not terribly familiar with all marine hardware but perhaps a replacement handle from one of the current suppliers like lewmar or bomar might be pressed into use. As for the seal, that shouldnt be too hard either... cant think of a supplier off the top of my head but im sure it wouldnt be too difficult to procure. Also the glass would most likely have to be specially made for this purpose but this is no big deal, simply supply a template to a glass company and tell them what you want.

The drain is the important bit. That is what keeps the channel from flooding up to the level of the seal and prevents a downpour when opening the hatch. Also the height of the seal is important as you would want the glass to compress down onto the seal well to form a good tight leak free connection.

I like this solution as modern day hatches would really look out of place on the Spirit range, and perhaps with the right parts supplied it might even work out cheaper than an equivalent modern hatch? Would have to look at the costs but a possibility maybe.
Last edited by mishnish on Sat Jun 10, 2006 4:24 pm, edited 2 times in total.
http://www.contradanza.co.uk - The restoration of a Vivacity 20, Aberdeen, Scotland.
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Tim
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Post by Tim »

Thanks for the drawing and info! It certainly seems straightforward, though figuring out the drain could be the most challenging part in certain installations.

And I have to say: I sure like that lightly scrubbed teak deck against varnished mahogany look...to die for!
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mishnish
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Post by mishnish »

Yeah the drain is a toughie, but not insurmountable. I noticed on the Spirit 70 they done it with a stainless pipe from the routered section of the hatch out through the cabin sides and im most cases it was visible, but on the side of the hatch that was least conspicuous and it integrated well in the interior because they have tried to make a feature of all the functional and structural parts by crafting them out of stainless.

I think the drain problem could be solved rather easily by simply accepting that the hatch will not be flush, but raised so that the bottom of the channel is still slightly above deck and leading the drain out onto the deck. A nice profile could be made into the frame so that the run up to the level of the glass looks ok. The only issue I can possibly see with that scenario is staining of the deck around the drains? Im sure theres a workable solution though.
http://www.contradanza.co.uk - The restoration of a Vivacity 20, Aberdeen, Scotland.
cliffg
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Beautiful Hatch

Post by cliffg »

Thanks for the information and especially the drawing that even I could figure out. And... the beautiful pictures, man what a gorgeous boat!!!!!

I may fiddle around with that, with some common lumber and see what happens. If I can make it work then I'd go ahead and make it out of teak or mahogany.

Man, what a gold mine this site is!!!!
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Post by CharlieJ »

Cliff- I've built a couple of the "Griffiths" hatches. They were highly reccomended by Don Street by the way, in his Ocean Sailing Yacht books. and also mentioned by Hiscock.

I've found them to be almost totally leak proof, if a bit boxy. I have drawings of the hatch design and photos of the ones I built if you'd like to see them.

We just returned ( at 2130 last night) from a 33 day cruise, so it'll take me a day or two to get myself back in gear.
cliffg
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Post by cliffg »

Charlie, that would be great. I'd very much appreciate any drawings and/or pictures.

Thanks
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Rachel
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Post by Rachel »

Welcome back, Charlie - it's good to have you posting again!

Can't wait to hear more about how Tehani worked on your trip. Things you'd done to the boat that worked well; future improvements envisioned, etc. All with major photo-documentation, of course ;-) :-)

Well, okay, you can catch your breath first...

--- Rachel
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