Plastic Classic Forum

Actually, I may have spoken too soon. The foredeck (my primary concern) is definately not cored, and is supported by 2 full-width cross-beams on the underside between the V-berth bulkhead and anchor locker bulkhead. The afterdeck, entire cockpit, cabin walls & portlights and the bulkhead separat...

Rachel... you said you never really liked painted-over molded non-skid. Can you elaborate why? Was it that the non-skid lost too much of its non-skid properties, or was it more of an aesthetic issue? I do worry about the aesthetics of rolling over molded-in non-skid, and I wouldn't even try tipping ...

Waste does not concern me... a proper job is what I want here.

Having removed all deck hardware, the 40+ year old chrome-over-bronze hardware is really shabby. I plan to take the hardware to a shop that can remove all the chrome and revert the hardware back to pure bronze (I prefer that look). This hardware was originally-installed with Stainless bolts. After r...

I plan to paint my entire deck next spring with 2-part Polyurethane (Interlux Perfection or similar). For a 40+ year old deck that has never been painted before, can one apply 2 coats of primer and 2 finish coats of Perfection and still leave enough "grip" in the molded-in non-skid? I know...

1968 Hinterhoeller HR28 The attached photo shows some stress cracks around a deck-mounted block fitting, and there are several more similarly-stressed areas around stanchion bases, etc. Not severe, but definately there. And almost the entire deck is alligatored... superficial but it exists most ever...

Here's the photo

I removed all deck hardware and some fittings (clam cleats, brass bell bracket, a few others) had black rubber-like gaskets and no other bedding material. Some rubber gaskets were intact, others a bit cracked. When I buy new hardware, some of which comes with gaskets, do I use them without bedding m...

Hinterhoeller HR29 Refurb Sorry if my questions seem obvious, but after many years in a daysailer, this is my first "big" boat. The attached photo shows a lifeline termination fitting I removed from the deck. The PO bedded the four holes but NOT the entire surface area of the fitting. When...

Hinterhoeller HR28 Refurb, I'm posting many discrete questions, hope that is OK. I want to keep the questions and topics explicit. I removed all deck hardware today. The photo shows bedding material (kinda soft, like bathroom tub/tile sealer) that I need to remove. Is there a solvent that will softe...

Just to close this thread, my Hinterhoeller HR28 does not have a cored deck... solid glass all around.

Thanks all.

First, many thanks for everyone's answers as I embark on the refit of my Hinterhoeller HR 28. I think I'll only have need for a decent shelter for this upcoming year, once the refit work is done (hopefully by summer 2011) I'll launch and store at a yard where I'll only need a cover, not a shelter. S...

Thanks for the tips Mike... Winch refurb will be an indoor wintertime project so I won't get to them for a few months. They function, but their action suggests they need re-greasing. Boat was idle (but reasonably well-covered) for nearly 2 years when I bought it. Still much to do while weather is st...

I do not know what caused it, but there is no sign of damage on the topsides.

Hinterhoeller HR-28 Refurb Photo shows a split in a cross-member over the V-berth & under the foredeck. My plan is: 1. Gorilla Glue (waterproof) in the wood split, 2. 3M 5200 over cross-member / underdeck separation, 3. jack up cross-member to join items up and hold while it sets (a few days). 4...

They are Wilcox-Crittenden... the logo matches (stylized W-C).

Thanks all... unfortunately, RigRite does not sell refurb parts... so the search begins.

When you say "light oil"... something like sewing machine oil? Or 3-in-One? Or is there a marine light oil you'd specifically recommend? I do not believe these are Merriman... There is a stylized logo on the winches and handle, but different from the Merriman (trident) logo I found on the ...

Here is a photo... the stamped label says "Marinum", but are you saying these are probably made by "Merriman" ?

1968 Hinterhoeller 28 refurb project. This boat has two Marinum foresail winches, their handles being a flat bar inserted into the winch rather than the more typical square socket-type fitting. They work, but not as smoothly as I'd want. Any ideas whether these can be resurrected / rebuilt? Where on...

Thank you all... I will pursue taking the hardware to a plating shop that can remove the chrome and go with the all-bronze look... on a 40+ year-old-boat, it just seems more appropriate.

I believe the 80-90% comparison may have come either from Don Casey's most recent edition of This Old Boat... or maybe something I read in a back issue of Practical Sailor. The criteria may not have exactly been "adhesive qualities", it may have been a more-general statement about "st...

More on 1968 Hinterhoeller 28; this is my first displacement boat, so please excuse if answers to some questions are obvious to you, they are not to me. Much of the deck hardware (anchor fasteners, stanchion bases) appear to be original, and seem to be chrome plate over bronze. Some (much) of the ch...

1968 Hinterhoeller 28. Wondering if anyone can help identify my interior "finish" and suggest repair / refurb methods. The interior walls and headliner are some sort of (brittle) plastic that appears to have been sprayed over the interior hull and deck glass. It has chipped in a couple spo...

In short, no I do not even know if I have any (seriously) wet core... tap-soundings are consistent and sharp and there is just the very slightest flex in the area of the foredeck furthest from internal bulkheads and hull (under my 230 pounds). Less flex that my non-cored O'Day Daysailer. Sidedecks a...

I am starting a refit of a Hinterhoeller HR28. I wish to pull all deck hardware for re-bedding, but if I encounter any damp core I'll also want to overdrill the holes, dig out some of the core around the holes, dry it out for a couple months (long enough? too long?) and then epoxy the voids and re-d...

I have a Paceship P20 open daysailer in tough shape. The deck appears to be one piece, including the cuddy bulkhead and entire cockpit. I believe that hull needs extensive re-work (stringer and other structural items rebuilt) and the cockpit sole is spongy, meaning a re-core. The transom is probably...