Plastic Classic Forum

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You're in a tough spot, anyone who has had to replace coamings can sympathize. I understand what you're trying to do and why, but don't do it. 1x stock is too thin for coamings, particularly at the high end, the proportion will look odd. You need 4/4 at least, 5/4 will be better. These coamings have...

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If the sail were not loose-footed, if it had a bottom bolt-rope (can't tell from the pic) which was captured in a slot on the boom, then those grommets could be used to allow the bitter end of the reef line to be tied around the boom.

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Why the elbow-up for the PCV?

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It will take up the space behind the head, fit to the hull. It will be a plywood box, glassed over inside and out. The back side of it is curved to fit the hull. The top of the box will bump up to the bottom of the chainplate knee (not yet installed). I left a space between the box and the forward ...

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Depending on your launch vs. rigging schedule, I'd further reccomend that you wait until the rig is up and tuned before bothering with shaft alignment. Really though I'd venture to guess that your alignment is fine. The vibration was probably from the shaft turning (getting stuck, breaking free, get...

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Having gone both routes in the past, I say with absolute certainty: Such a minor increase (roughly 30%) in capacity is NOT worth the effort of a custom tank.
Britton's Big Red Monster was a significant increase.

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In your original pic it looks like someone "peened" (beat on) the sides of the track until the car wouldn't pass anymore.

Replace that bottom flathead screw with a pan-head screw plus a washer.

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Running or not, for $500 I'd grab that catalina engine. Quickly.

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Even with the tillerpilot issue, I'm seriously envious of that experience.
Thanks for bringing the rest of us along!

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On a very nice MacKenzie Cuttyhunk in Newport harbor: Pogy and Bass

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Stop the clock on the yard fees after step 5. The mast is up, you can attend to the rest at your leisure. Is there really no way you can at least "ballpark" the length of the uppers ahead of time? Stepping a mast with the boat afloat is annoying enough when everything is the right length a...

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Oh yes, that'll do!

Looking great, Joe.

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I need a mainsail, my luff is 31ft and the foot is 12.5 on the old main which is in tatters. does this sound about right to all you Triton owners ? there is a good used loose footed main around here but the luff is 33ft. I have had lots of experience with loose footed mains and I like them alot. Do...

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I built an alternating tread in my former residence. Guests were generally freaked out. Lots of knocked-shins on the way up, many had to be "talked down".
It was absolutely the right solution for that particular application, but that application was NOT on a moving boat.

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My suggestion stems primarily from those little eyebolts in the bow transom which appear to penetrate the forward.... tank? seat? non-cargo-volume?

There are worse things in life than an overweight dinghy, but it's a short list.

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Weigh it. write it down.
Do the same at the beginning and end of each season, so you know when to grab a saw and dig out that "floatation".

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Fantastic red, truly.

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When I rebuild I have an Adler Barbour/Waeco CS-NC15 that I will install in a plywood/glass box on the port side, opposite of a deep SS single sink and a Force 10 2 burner swing stove/oven. To the right of the refer (bow/forward end) I am considering installing a swing out trash can/bin with either...

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I can see how some bit of pretzel logic could lead one to that configuration. What if, maybe, one wanted to source "house" duties and "running" duties from different batteries, or both from one, all switched and independently selectable? That's how you'd do it. A catastrophic pro...

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Even if it's still alive, why would you want it?

Snip.

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Completely separate from the water tank discussion, can you identify what is causing the starboard list? I ask because we experienced a similar situation on my father's powerboat, only to have to undo it later. Long story short: Silverton 34 was listing to port, and a bladder tank was added starboar...

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Jeff PT403 wrote:How far back should it be? The old 30" one started about a foot back
from the cabin.

Jeff

This is properly determined by finding the best sheeting angle for your particular sail, but just as a guide, my deck-sweeping 160 sheets to a point about even with the middle of the aft deadlight.

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This is a very sweet shot.

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I have 30" tracks on my toerail. Yes, getting nuts and washers behind those screws is significantly difficult. Those tracks are the ONLY thing that did not get removed from the boat during the deck recore and paintjob. The need to remove and reinstall those tracks persuaded me away from doing a...

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Yes, but that chain splice is a fun bit of spikework, renew it every year or two at your leisure.

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You do nice work, Tom.

That is one BUSY little space!

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Joe,

(good to hear from you)
Save this one until she's afloat, and fill the holes on a nice breezy day when you can stay on one tack until the goo cures.

When I don't have the patience for that, I use Rachel's method, though I've never bothered with the fill-from-the-bottom part.

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I say move the vent because it's an unneccesary constraint on this installation. If the vent weren't there, you wouldn't be considering locating the windlass so close to that port cleat, would you? To my eye, the windlass wants to be located almost exactly within the footprint of that vent. The vent...

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The vent is where the windlass wants to be.

Move the vent.

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Yes, Airmar. Duh.

Even if you don't see what you need on their website, pick up the phone. Absolutely stellar people.

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As far as "where".... the old one was there for a reason. The wineglass shape of the hull doesn't offer many (any) convenient spots for such things. Mine is in the same spot, and that was not my first choice either due to the degree of hull modification required. I'll second the suggestion...

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I think Tom is onto something there. Particularly since flipping the runningback around the flying mizzen sail to re-set on the other side seems like a rather unseamanlike process. I also think that the runningback, while it may STOW onto the boom, needs to be set to something on deck before being l...

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Just how hot do we imagine these constantly-immersed-in-seawater surfaces ever get?

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I know I say this about half of the Tritons I see out in the world, but WHY on earth is that boom set so high??? Planning on inviting Yao Ming along as crew?

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Simpson connection... a.k.a. "hurricane clips" and "joist hangers". The stamped-metal doodads used to connect wooden framing members in accordance with current building codes. http://www.strongtie.com/graphics/categories/H.gif The pan head just holds things together, it doesn't t...

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I intended to make this comment in the last.... I really think you're going to miss the extra width at deck height afforded by the kneewalls. If your previous kneewalls were not stable enough, build better ones this time. Doug is right, the Stimson bows are working as shallow trusses. Increasing the...

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Whatever you use to keep the weather out will last a lot longer (longevity seems to be prime concern here) if it's not spanning so far. I know that shorter spans means more bows means more labor and cost, but if you're looking to go years and years on the back end, you'll need to put in more on the ...

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Yes that looks like an early Dyer Midget to me. The hard part (should you chose to faithfully replicate original construction) is bending the wood of the rubrail around the bow. All the rest is just plain old boatwork. sigh. and so my annual springtime search for a fixer-upper dinghy is renewed. Tha...

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Also, while the cloth stretches over time, the rope shrinks, exacerbating the baggyness of age.

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Bikermouse wrote:And would you believe that this is the backing for the winches!

Well, first I need to believe that this rig actually requires winches, but then yes. Yes, I would.

Pics good.
More pics better.

You have achieved "better".

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A player grand?!! Easier than a full-upright, but still... what does that weigh? 500lb? 600?

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I laughed far too hard at that.

Thank you.

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Doug that toerail is precisely the application I'm talking about with respect to the epoxy helping the finish to hold. Take the finish down to wood, apply CPES and let it cure for AT LEAST a good warm week before moving on to a non-traditional varnish. The wood will still move, of course, but the ep...

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I know it's a no-no, but I can't recall the specifics of why. Probably something to do with the work-hardening of the brass leading to it becoming brittle. The metallurgical details of it are escaping me at the moment. Try asking the folks over at Brion Toss's forum. Who is the supplier? Are they ri...

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Perhaps this was mentioned in an earlier post, but I didn't see it: Where are you? In brightwork, like so many things, location location location matters. Lattitude, really, but also rainy vs. dry seasons. With all respect and love to my friends at higher lattitudes, shortened seasons and shortened ...

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and what better gift for a guy who loves to look at nasty boat bits online.... http://gallery.me.com/marinexpert#100726

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From the photo, it looks like you either have already successfully pulled most of the head studs, or most of them broke off during removal. If the former, you have it made. That's a good motor that's been well maintained, a little bit of love will go a long way. If the latter, you have some very nas...

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Find a big open floor surface. Lay the sail out on that surface. Commence with the floor-scrubbing machine. http://www.akblessingsabound.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/hoover5-akblessingsabound.bmp That's how my sailmaker does it, anyway. Sailing in freshwater though, I'm not sure I'd bother. My und...

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or at least entertain you with hours and hours of infomercials.

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The partial bulkhead is already there, you're just looking to close the hole, yes? Don't overthink it. My icebox is long gone. My corresponding closure panel is removable, and MANY are the times I've been quite thankful for this convenience. Cut the plywood a couple of inches large to overlap what's...

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