Plastic Classic Forum

okawbow

I have used a portable dust collector for 5 years, while grinding fiberglass archery bows. works great, and not so whiny as a vacuum.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=31810

okawbow

If I use the blind rivets; should they be stainless steel, with stainless mandrells? If stainless screws; what type stainless steel? Any advice on where to buy?

okawbow

I have removed the damaged sail track from my Cheoy lee 31 mast and boom. What would be the best fastener for the new track? The holes are 3/16", spaced about 3" apart. The wall thickness on the aluminum mast is about 3/16". would blind (pop) rivets work? Should I drill and tap, (150)...

okawbow

I just read an ad on ebay for a "1963 Pearson Sailboat" they estimate its length at 20-24 feet. Looks like a Triton to me. Also looks to be in really sorry shape with some damage. How cheap is too cheap? I'm currently working on a 31" Cheoy Lee Offshore that I got for a low price for ...

okawbow

If you have a Menards near by; they carry that kind of "mahogany" in 1" clear boards. I've used it for hatch boards that turned out well.

okawbow

I think you are asking a lot of any bandsaw to cut thin laminations that are more than 2 or 3 inches wide, and any length over a couple feet. The blade wants to follow the path of least resistance, and as soon as it gets twisted in the wood, it's all over. If you can find quatersawn wood; you might ...

okawbow

I grind fiberglass nearly every day, while making archery bows. In hot weather, I wear old cotton dress shirts. The good, fine weave kind protect very well against glass. when I do get glass in my skin, I use illuminated tweezers and a magnifying glass as soon as possible, before the fiber breaks off.

okawbow

project). And while I have some ideas and info about what I want to do with the interior, I would appreciate any photos of what the interiors used to look like, since mine is down to bare fiberglass. Layout is the dinette version. Comments are certainly welcome. Encouragement and advice highly appr...

okawbow

Anybody else curious about the evident lack of pairs of chainplates from the Cheoy Lee 31? Anybody else curious about the way that none of 'em are bolted in line with the load? Those are the port side chainplates. I haven't removed the starboard side yet. As for the shape; they are similar to chain...

okawbow

I hate to hijack a thread, but since it is already titled "chainplates"....... I recently removed the port chainplates from my 40 year old, Cheoy Lee offshore 31. I've read of problems with Cheoy Lee stainless being brittle. A couple of the bolts holding the chainplates on, were corroded, ...

okawbow

What is wrong with making a statement on this forum, that you feel is true? I have been made to feel most unwelcome on this site more than once, by simply trying to help out a fellow sailor, or ask a question. What's with that? If you disagree with someone's statement; provide proof of why the state...

okawbow

Hi David

I don't know who designed the Cheoy Lee Offshore 31. It is modification of a Bermuda 30, which was designed after a Hershoff 28. I didn't think they made an Offshore 32.

Here (I hope) are pictures of my 31 wih the PO flying 2 spinnakers (the wrong way)

okawbow

Here's an interesting test that includes osage.

http://chestofbooks.com/home-improvemen ... ength.html

okawbow

I've worked with osage orange for over 30 years. I've never found another american hardwood that can match it in overall strength and durability. This qualifies you to make definitive statements that the rest of us are expected to take as fact? I will not debate with you which wood is the best. My ...

okawbow

Osage orange, sometimes called hedge apple, is the strongest........american wood No it isn't. First of all there are 3 basic types of strength for wood. Tensil, compression and deflective, so using the term strong is misleading. A general description of Osage Orange is certainly rot resistant, ver...

okawbow

Osage orange, sometimes called hedge apple, is the strongest, and most rot resistant american wood. You can get it from most hardwood suppliers, and maybe from your local sawmill. I hve seen it for sale on online auction sites.

okawbow

Nice to see you here David.

I recently bought a cheoy lee Offshore 31 ketch. Do you know if your 32 ketch is related? I'm in the process of replacing the wooden masts with aluminum, and refitting for a voyage in a couple years. Maybe we can exchange ideas.

Chuck

okawbow

I had to drill oversize holes from the deck, when I re-fastened my stanchions. There just isn't room to drill from below. I used a 3/4" spade bit, and stopped short of drilling through the bottom skin. I then made a cutting tool from a 1/4" allen key, to "rout" out the core insid...

okawbow

Might be from Royal sailmakers England?

okawbow

If you can get the flange bolts off, and can slide the coupling back far enough, you might try putting a slug or large nut, slightly smaller than the shaft diameter, at the end of the shaft. You can then install new bolts, and tighten them slowly until the nut pushes the shaft a little ways in the c...

okawbow

I just put money down on a Cheoy Lee 31 here in Illinois, but It's been sitting on the hard for a couple years. Can't believe someone would steal a boat that identifiable, and expect to get away with it.

okawbow

There may be a 27 at my Marina for sale. I asked about it a while back, and the Marina owner asked if I was still interested last weekend. It is a real "project" though. Major refit has been started and it's sat on the hard for a long time. The Marina is in central Illinois on carlyle lake...

okawbow

I've used osage orange, (or hedge apple wood, ) for a tiller, handrails, and winch bases. It's a US species and not endangered. It is the most dense, most rot resistant, and strongest US wood available. It starts out bright yellow, but quickly turns a golden brown in the sun. I've seen osage fence p...

okawbow

It seems like several here have wooden rudders. I just brought home a 19' Corinthian with a wooden rudder. What should I do, if anything, about several vertical cracks in the wood? There is no movement, and the cracks are not too bad. I will be keeping the boat on a trailer, and launching for 1-4 da...

okawbow

I just got back from a 1600 mile round trip to pick up my new to me Corinthian. I got a great deal on a solid little boat with an excellent full set of sails. Everything is solid and almost ready to sail. It only needs new bottom paint and some attention to the wooden rudder. I bought the little Alb...

okawbow

Mahagony glues well with titebond 2 and 3. Some epoxies are better than others for gluing oily woods like teak. Be carefull with clamping when using epoxy. Don't use too much pressure, and if you apply pressure, and have to release it to re-align, then you need to re-apply the glue, or you will have...

okawbow

I removed one of my portlights, and after finding the plastic in worse condition than I originally thought, and upon finding the removal quick and easy; I bought enough 1/4" SparTech polycast super abraision resistant acrylic to replace all my portlights. I cut the plastic to size with a table ...

okawbow

Does anyone know where is center of gravity of an empty (no fuel, no water, no engine) A30? I'm designing a new trailer for Dharma and I would like to calculate where to put the axles... Thanks You might think about putting your axles on a angle iron bracket that can be bolted to the frame, and sli...

okawbow

Corrosion being the only real exception. Corrosion is really the only thing that is going to weaken a properly installed seacock mounting bolt and a silicon bronze bolt is not going to corrode that quickly. There really isn't any cyclic stress on a seacock bolt. There really isn't any stress at all...

okawbow

In 25 years of industrial maintenance, I've seen hundreds of broken fasteners. Many broke just under the head, and some had disastrous results. A loose object slamming against a through hull a few times could easily break a weakened bolt. The best fix might be to install through hulls like Mainesail...

okawbow

I filled mine with thickened epoxy, because I never wanted them to come out. If I ever have to remove them, it will be more work. A softer fairing compound might be better if you think you may remove them, but there is always the slim chance they could break, some how work out, and leave a hole in y...

okawbow

I have a large stainless steel water tank located in the bilge of my boat. While removing a steel fuel tank I nicked it with my recipricating saw. The result is a small leak in the corner. I have some welding experience but I am not sure the best method of repair. The tank cannot be removed and get...

okawbow

Rachel, thanks, I.m also making hatch screens on frames. We have a serious bug problem in the summer. I'll look into the Scoop, but my wife doesn't like too much air blowing on her, but can't stand it being "stuffy". Zach, Oscar, I need to make the cut-out while the window is in the boat, ...

okawbow

Thanks!
I wondered about the zip bits. I have a dremel with a speed control, so maybe that's the way to go. I was also thinking about using a small battery powered circular saw for the long, straight cuts. It has a 4" thin, sharp blade. I'll try both on some scrap plexiglass first.

okawbow

The new ports I have will nearly fill the space in the existing plexiglass. I would think they would add strength by removing most of the crazed plastic. If it doesn't work; I won't lose anything but a little time, and can always remove the ports and glass a solid filler in before re-installing the...

okawbow

Based on what I have just read from the manufacturer's website I am not so sure about using Smooth-on in composite structural repairs. The company markets a whole bunch of products and several epoxies but most of them are geared towards mold making. (and yes, bow making) The Smooth-On physical prop...

okawbow

Hello all, As I get closer to starting the recore project on Whim (Triton #122) I'm trying to walk though the process in my head to make sure I do it right the first time. After reading about other's projects I'm still a little unclear about what is meant by "thickened epoxy" in the follo...

okawbow

Installing a new opening port within an existing plexiglass port (or deadlight?) doesn't sound like a very strong or attractive option, quite frankly, but maybe I am misunderstanding your intentions. That said, it has been done before, with questionable results (as far as I'm concerned, anyway). Th...

okawbow

Hello all, As I get closer to starting the recore project on Whim (Triton #122) I'm trying to walk though the process in my head to make sure I do it right the first time. After reading about other's projects I'm still a little unclear about what is meant by "thickened epoxy" in the follo...

okawbow

Thanks Tim,

Way more work than I had in mind. I think I can cut new holes in the existing plexiglass while it is still in place, and install the new opening ports without doing any more than sealing and bolting in. If I mess up, I,m not really hurting anything, as I need to change the ports anyway.

okawbow

This area on my triton was weaping before I stripped the bottom and after, so I drilled into it to let it drip out more. Thinking this would let it dry up. It really didn't, so I drilled a couple bigger holes. Long story short, finally found a crack on the side of the bottom of the bilge. Some have...

okawbow

Hi all, my first post on this board. I recently bought 2 Beckson opening ports on closeout. I plan on installing them in my Bristol 24. The existing ports have plastic that is crazed and I planned on replacing them anyway. The new ports are slightly smaller than the existing plexiglass lights. Has a...

Plastic Classic Forum

Search found 92 matches

Re: Cleaning up Fiberglass dust.

Re: What fastener for an external sail track?

What fastener for an external sail track?

A $25.00 Triton?

Re: Matching Philipine Mahogany

Re: Tuning up ye olde bandsaw?

Re: Easy way to remove fiberglass from your skin

Re: Bristol 24…

Re: Chainplates

Re: Chainplates

Facts, opinions, and flames

Re: Introduction

Re: Wood types for compression block

Re: Wood types for compression block

Re: Wood types for compression block

Re: Wood types for compression block

Re: Introduction

Re: repair questions

Re: Sailmakers logo

Re: Having major trouble getting out prop shaft out

Re: Cheoy Lee 31 JUNO stolen Thursday, Rockport MA

Re: Back in the bristol market

Re: Rubrail

Wooden rudder maintenance

Sailstar/bristol Corinthian

Re: what type of wood glue?

Re: Opening Ports installation in existing portlights-Update

Re: A30 center of gravity

broken bolts

Through hull bolts

Re: stainless steel water tank repair

wind scoops and cutting plastic

zip bits

Re: thickened epoxy

Re: thickened epoxy

Replacing ports

Re: Triton, area in front of rudder, behind lead.

Opening Ports installation in existing portlights