Plastic Classic Forum

ILikeRust

Damn, that is a gorgeous boat!

Sweet.

ILikeRust

Re-gelcoating the deck and cabin, so.... - Do I tape and work around the fixed and opening ports or do I pull them out? I would remove them, but then again, I also am the type who removes all the switch plates, doorknobs, hinges and other hardware in a room before painting the walls, doors and trim...

ILikeRust

I think I just committed at least two deadly sins and violated one of the commandments.

ILikeRust

The tracks on my 1968 Pearson Wanderer are on top of the toe rail - I believe they are through-bolted, as is the entire toe rail.

ILikeRust

Well, I made the pilgrimage back up to the boatyard yet again today. This time, for the first time, my wife came along to help out, and because she said that would be the only way she would get to see me and spend time with me! Anyhow, last weekend I roughed out the floor timbers based on the templa...

ILikeRust

I agree with Rachel - sounds like somebody probably used Bondo or something similar.

ILikeRust

OK, some more progress. I haven't been up to the boatyard for a couple weeks now. Two weekends ago, I had actual work to do - and I mean "work" work, not boat work. You know, that annoying thing most of us have to do to pay for the boat work. I had to spend most of the weekend doing that. ...

ILikeRust

Anybody know anything about a "Sail Star" sailboat? Spied on Craig's list: http://richmond.craigslist.org/boa/2292334039.html And then there's a "Greenwich": http://richmond.craigslist.org/boa/2292323855.html My assumption is they're both in pretty sad condition, if their appeara...

ILikeRust

Might be an optical delusion, given the camera angle. The cockpit might not be as deep as you're assuming. It's interesting to me how similar that boat appears to be to my 1966 Wanderer. The boom on my boat is just a few inches above my head when I'm standing in the middle of the cockpit (which is n...

ILikeRust

When I saw the subject line, I thought you meant you had 7,345 problems with your boat. I was thinking maybe you had made a comprehensive list. My thought was "yeah, that sounds about right. Sounds like my boat."

ILikeRust

The reason I would glass them is to prevent moisture ingress to the wood and the eventual rot. Roger that. The good thing is that where these floor timbers will be is not really so much "bilge" as it is just dead space under the sole. I mean, yeah, I guess you'd call it bilge, but it's al...

ILikeRust

The reason I asked is that I don't believe Pearson cored hulls in that era. Decks always but not the hulls. The Pearson 30 that succeeded the Wanderer in 1971 wasn't cored. Hmm... mebbe not, then. I should have taken a closer look when I pulled out the two through-hulls about a month ago. I guess t...

ILikeRust

Yeah, my intent was to do the job better than the original, in any case. OK, looks like I will be going back to my original plan A and epoxying the floor timbers down to the hull, with some nice big fillets. First thing is I have to do is actually make the damn things! So much to do, so little time....

ILikeRust

The floor timbers should become one with the hull. They add stiffness needed in way of the ballast. OK - far be it from me to disagree with you when it comes to anything remotely related to fixing or maintaining boats - I will more than readily admit I'm way down at the far left end of the learning...

ILikeRust

Maine Sail wrote:Personally I would glass them in ...

Can I ask why? Rather than just use an adhesive? Pros/cons, etc? Thanks.

ILikeRust

I just read this thread over at SailNet and I'm hoping Maine Sail will chime in with some words of wisdom here... So as I previously reported , I have completely torn out the sole and what passed as floor timbers from the cabin in my 1968 Pearson Wanderer. So what I'm now left with is the bare insid...

ILikeRust

Water pump is startled:

ILikeRust

Well, I am Canadian, so I have to put in the point that Robertson head screws are far superior to slots or Philips. The screw will tend to stay on the driver, which is a great benefit when working in tight spots, and it is less likely to "cam out" Of course, the Philips was designed to ca...

ILikeRust

I would use the same varnish I was using to varnish whatever it is I was varnishing. As for removing them, I find a sheetrock or deck screw driven right into the middle of the bung works great to tear out the old one - assuming nobody put it in with some amazing, super-dooper techno gloop that holds...

ILikeRust

Based on what I learned yesterday (getting a constant education - I love it. Gotta learn at least one new thing every day, and around here, I learn several new things every day! ), I need to get a new prop shaft coupler and get it fitted and faced. So I did a little Googling and found Reedville Prop...

ILikeRust

One of the guys at the Wooden Boat Forum also recommended a split coupling. What's the advantage?

ILikeRust

Well I posted the same question over at the Wooden Boat forum and a guy over there who's a naval architect and probably has forgotten more about boats than I'll ever know informed me it's a very bad idea to re-used the old coupling, particularly if it was rusty when pulled off. The issue is that it'...

ILikeRust

As usual, my ongoing, never-ending work on my sailboat consists of one step forward, half a step back. So yesterday I very easily - almost too easily - pulled the prop off the shaft, pulled the shaft and stuffing box out of the stern tube and pulled out the cutless bearing. Easy peasy. So today I to...

ILikeRust

Yes, I posted it over at the Wooden Boat forum, and after some Googling to compare pictures, it's a Cheoy Lee Frisco Flyer. It could be an absolute peach of a boat - they are very pretty with lots of nice woodwork. It's simply a real shame that someone let this one get into such an advanced state of...

ILikeRust

All I know is when I see something that clearly was once so lovely and could still be if it had been properly taken care of, it breaks my heart.

Nothing is quite so tragic and pathetic as simple neglect. And yet it is so common...

ILikeRust

After that, the next task was removing the fiberglass/resin lip left over from last week's cabin sole removing expedition. Zach very helpfully suggested I use a chisel rather than grinding it all out. So I grabbed one of my beater chisels and sharpened it up before I left home this morning. It worke...

ILikeRust

The saga continues... Made the weekly 90-minute pilgrimage up to the boatyard again today. First matter to address was pulling the prop, shaft and cutless bearing. Much to my satisfaction, that entire process took less than 10 minutes. Lickety-split, out it all came, smooth as .... well, something v...

ILikeRust

This lovely little boat is just 2 or 3 away from mine in the yard. I saw her for the first time last weekend (they moved my boat from where it was before and it took me a few minutes to find it again), and today I was up there again and decided to take a few pics. http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/...

ILikeRust

Rachel wrote:If you right click the image on your hosting page and look at "properties" do you get a .jpeg file name?

I tried that, but nope.

ILikeRust

Your links are not to .jpg files. Your first link is: http://www.949.reno2.com/download/file.php?id=192&mode=view That is a link to a web-based photo viewer, not to the photo itself. It should be something more like: http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu207/ilikerust/SUC53459.jpg I.e., it should...

ILikeRust

Yeah, they're not coming through for me either.

ILikeRust

I call this one "Four Singing Frogs":

ILikeRust

I am going to convert to FWC, which will be the most expensive aspect of the overhaul. I was waiting to see the condition of the engine before deciding whether to spend the money on the FWC kit. Having determined that the engine is in excellent condition overall, I figured it's worth the money to ex...

ILikeRust

By the way, I've also been proceeding with my Atomic A4 engine disassembly. I've been posting updates to that project over the Moyer Marine Atomic A4 forum. Rather than re-post the whole bloody massacre here, if'n yer innarested in more "before and during" photos of an old greasy engine be...

ILikeRust

Well jeez, you're just full of questions, aintcha? Were there floors in there too? Or is the sole self-supporting (or whatever you would call it if just spanned from side to side, basically sitting on the edges)? What held it down? 1. Yes, there were a few floors - surprisingly rough-cut and sloppil...

ILikeRust

Headed up to the yard today (aaaagggaaaaiiinnnn... I've been driving up there every weekend....). On today's to-do list: pull the prop and shaft and then pull the cutless bearing, and once that's done, attack the cabin sole. Borrowed my neighbor's two-arm puller, because I have only three-arm puller...

ILikeRust

Here's a thought: does the date of the coin matter? Or is it simply the fact that you've put a coin there? Here's what that repository of all knowledge, Wikipedia, has to say about it. Hmmm... even curiouser, Wikipedia indicates there are two different coin-laying ceremonies in a ship's construction...

ILikeRust

How do you put a "completion year" coin under the mast? The boat isn't complete yet. And even stepping the mast doesn't mean it's complete. You could have a lot yet to do, and the way most of us (I'd bet) get stuff done, it could well be the next year, or later, by the time the boat is &qu...

ILikeRust

$7.00 at Northern:

Or go crazy and for $38:

Stick the pole in yer bucket o' crete.

I guess I'm just wonderin' ... eh???

ILikeRust

That's the method that was described to me.

ILikeRust

I just want to restate for clarity that I do not have a strut supporting the shaft after it exits the the hull. I have a stern tube integral to the hull, with the prop just outside the hull. Specifically: http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu207/ilikerust/Grizabella/OnTheHardJanuary2011/OnTheHardWit...

ILikeRust

So how hard is it really to pull out and replace a cutlass bearing in a stern tube? I'm starting to feel a bit taken advantage of by the boatyard where my boat is on the hard. I keep talking to the guy about things I'm thinking of doing, and asking him how much he would charge to do it, and I did no...

ILikeRust

Well at $200 for the most basic Multimaster kit and $400 for the one intended for people fixing up boats, I'm still going to take a pass for now. I'm already spending plenty o' money on the boat right now, and I have plenty o' tools to do pretty much everything I'm doing on the boat - so far...

ILikeRust

Rachel - I'll have to take a good look and get some pics for you next time I'm up there at the boat, but from what I've seen in the cabin areas, the hull has a flange and the deck is glued and screwed down on top of that. The toe rail screws go through the deck AND the hull flange. You can find a li...

ILikeRust

I don't need much of an excuse to buy a new tool, but at this point, there are very few tools I don't already have. I've seen those Fein tools and similar oscillating mult-tools for a while, but I've yet to find enough justification to buy one. It does seem like a handy little bugger, but by the sam...

ILikeRust

Yeah, I found it online at a couple places, for about $8 per roll - and then something like $20 in shipping charges.

I found it at this place, just northeast of Richmond, VA, which is pretty much right on the way from my house to the boatyard: http://www.cheekandshockley.com/

ILikeRust

By the way, I had no problem finding butyl tape at a local RV dealer's parts department. About 7-8 bucks per 50-foot roll. I bought two rolls and got a few bucks change from my twenty. Not too shabby! I just used it for the first time yesterday, to re-bed a slightly leaky hatch above the dinette in ...

ILikeRust

Skipper599 wrote:Question: What are your thoughts out there about using Butyl below the waterline? eg: Thru-hulls?

I highly recommend taking the time to read through this post over at Sailnet.

My understanding is butyl is not the best choice for below the waterline. It depends on what you're sealing, though.

ILikeRust

I haven't seen much about the Wanderer (besides the basics), but I've been curious about them Let me know if you've got any questions about the Wanderer - I've done a tiny little bit of research, and I really like this boat, which is why I don't mind spending the money and doing the work to bring h...

ILikeRust

Yeah, I was planning on doing the overdill/fill routine. I've become pretty sanguine about the leaking deck fittings, because, well, they're leaking; they've been leaking; there's not much I can do about it until the weather gets warmer and I have time to get up there and focus on the issue. The sur...

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