Plastic Classic Forum

catamount

Here's a pic to illustrate how it's done ;-)

catamount

Late April/Early May Update (Part 1) corresponding Winter Worklist Update Cockpit drains Then: http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyhawk/2007-01/CockpitDrainsBefore.jpg Cockpit drains Now: http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyhawk/2007-04/CockpitDrainThruhullsDone.jpg As discussed here , the backing pl...

catamount

Hi John, I'm sorry I didn't see your question until just recently. I really didn't do much epoxy work over the winter, unless the outside temperatures were above 40F (which did happen occaisionally). Then I'ld set up my electric heaters to further warm up the area of the boat where I wanted to work,...

catamount

original list posted September 12 update posted January 8 update posted April 2 Update as of May 3 * Remove all hardware and fittings from the deck -- Toe Rails are off! (only about 200 bolts to undo!) revealling all kinds of dirt, including trapped diesel fuel! * recore portions of the deck, fill ...

catamount

Geeze, Mike, you're really hot for the Halifax race, aren't you? :-) Might I suggest: http://www.marbleheadtohalifax.com/Race/CrewBank/CrewSignupForm.htm Sorry if I planted that bug, but GREYHAWK is just not going to be ready---this year. Oh, and Peter, isn't the Over the Hill award is for crews wit...

catamount

I've been using BoatLife Release in combination with a sharpened putty knife or chisel to remove the old silicone from my boat. So far it seems to be working OK.

catamount

The previous owner of the boat had repaired some areas of damaged core with what appears to be "Great Stuff" foam and then fiberglassed over that. But ultimately that wasn't very effective. Forgot to mention in the autopsy report that I think this area cracked because the new top skin the...

catamount

Autopsy Report http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyhawk/2007-04/DomedAreaRecored.jpg This is a view of the current condition of the area shown above where the deck had domed. I cut out for a new ventilation hatch, and cut away the top skin and removed rotten and/or delaminated core from the surroundi...

catamount

Tim wrote:I think it's semantics.

Agreed.

I think the main point is that if a boat has been previously documented, it should be relatively easy to re-document the boat.

Regards,

catamount

If you can't transfer the document because it's expired..... I don't think you can ever "transfer" documentation; rather the previous owner's documentation is cancelled and "new" documentation is issued in your name. When I bought my boat, the broker involved sent a letter to th...

catamount

acoustic wrote:a 1979 CS36 (Canadian Sailcraft) and I''m wondering if I can now qualify as owning a plastic classic or is a CS36 still to radical and new?

My boat was built is a fin-keeled, spade-ruddered racer/cruiser built in 1980 down in Texas and "they" haven't kicked me out of this place (yet)! ;-)

catamount

Just for information, I've heard of some boats that have removable mounts for their radomes that attach to their spinnaker pole track on the forward side of the mainmast. When conditions warrant, they bring out the radome (stored below), attach it, raise it up to the top of the track, and turn it on...

catamount

Just an update following the Tax Day Storm of 2007 -- the "tent" is still standing tall. You can see that I've had to add battens over the winter to keep the plastic sheeting attached (the plastic ripped out around the staples alone). The frame hasn't budged, though! http://sailing.thorpea...

catamount

I have a Whale Gusher 8 manual bilge pump that uses 1" hoses...

catamount

What size taps you might need will depend on the boat... For mine, I know that 5/16 definitely is needed, and I think 3/8 might get some use, too.

Regards,

catamount

If you're going to run multiple bilge pumps to a single outlet, that outlet should be sufficiently large so as to accommodate the discharge of all of the pumps connected to it all running simultaneously at their full capacity. And generally, bilge pump discharges should not be connected to cockpit d...

catamount

Why not thru-bolt? Three less holes in the boat --- per seacock. To my mind, fewer holes is better. As I see it, the primary reason for the flange bolts are to keep the keep the seacock from unscrewing from the thru-hull, which job screws threaded into an appropriately dense backing block can do jus...

catamount

I think I'm going to affix the backing plate to the hull and then either tap-and-machine-screw (FRP) or lag (wood) the seacocks to them This is why I went with the G-10 for my seacock backing plates, 'cause I'm going to tap them for machine screws to secure my seacocks (which, in my case, are Marel...

catamount

Look under Plastics by material type for "'Grade G-10 Garolite" (rather than "Fiberglass"). A 12" x 12" sheet of 1/2" G-10 is Part Number 9910T41. It is not inexpensive, but I was able to cut quite a few seacock backing plates out of one: http://sailing.thorpeallen...

catamount

* Remove all hardware and fittings from the deck -- I've started in on my full-length toe rails, in anticipation of getting ready for painting the decks. The only other items left to be removed are the fixed cabin windows (4), the chain plates, and the hydraulic system panel. But I'm really starting...

catamount

In regards to cutting the lashed lines - why not add a clip to both ends? 3.14.2 Lifelines required in Special Regulations shall be "taut". a) As a guide, when a deflecting force of 50 N (5.1 kgf, 11.2 lbf) is applied to a lifeline midway between supports, the lifeline should not deflect ...

catamount

My rigger is fabricating new lifelines for me right now -- 3/16" diameter 1x19 un-coated 316 stainless steel wire, with machine-swaged fittings: turnbuckle at one end, swivel gate eye at the other. I will use some high-tech line to lash the swivel gate eye to the eyes/loops on the stern pushpit...

catamount

I went about getting the thing down, uncleated the halyard and all 270 lbs was lifted off the deck. You've got to spill the air from the sail before releasing the halyard. With our symmetrical spinnaker, we typically do this by sheeting in hard on the sheet (bringing the sail in behind the main) an...

catamount

Has anyone considered hydronic heating? You know, hot water baseboards? I've heard of installations that are connected to the engine cooling system, much like a hot water heater would be. All you need is a couple of loops of copper pipe and some hose....

catamount

If its done right it makes a watertight seal, no boot needed. Does that hold true if the mast gets pulled periodically (such as annually for winter storage)? FWIW, when the riggers cut off the butt of my mast last year (from the gooseneck down) and spliced on a new butt section, they re-used the ol...

catamount

SCOUT wrote:I have also read about sealant that you can pour around this area in place of wood wedges.

Spartite

My boat came with it.

It seems like a good system to me.

You may still need a good boot to help keep the water out.

catamount

Truck painters might not have considered boats as a potential market, but boat painters, even in Annapolis -- the so-called sailing capital of the US -- apparently have considered the opposite: We can also paint any non-marine products that may require an extremely hard and long lasting topcoat such...

catamount

Recently installed, haven't used it with the boat in the water yet: http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyhawk/2007-01/HeaterInstallation.jpg http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyhawk/2007-01/HeaterCloseUp.jpg This is a Force 10 Cozy Cabin D/K bulkhead heater, now no longer offered (EDIT -- there is stil...

catamount

...there was no delamination of the core and skin, only that the rotted core had deteriorated so badly, it came apart. The core never came apart from the skins, just from itself. In fact, we will have to grind the still bonded balsa core from the skins, except for were the core actually tore the fi...

catamount

Thanks for that link. Really fascinating. My one initial comment I have is regarding the author's conclusion that freezing of fully saturated core did not lead to de-lamination --- well, they started the experiment with a (purposely built) delaminated structure to begin with! It's already been split...

catamount

OK, here's another thought about freezing core and delamination, relating to the reported SeaRay study (which I've not seen): if all the core is saturated and it all freezes at once, then all that would happen would be for the whole deck to rise at once -- no cause for breaking bonds between core an...

catamount

I suspect that these lifted areas are areas where delamination has already occurred, prior to freezing. I also suspect that if the deck gland for the hydraulic line was still in place, it would have prevented the frost heaving at that location by acting as a clamp or vice holding the skins and core ...

catamount

I think last night was one of the coldest we've had all winter, with the temperature this morning about 5 below Zero F. The temperature today never rose above 10 degrees F. What happens to a balsa-cored fiberglass laminate structure under these conditions, when the balsa wood is fully saturated with...

catamount

Here's a link to a wide variety of hose adapters: http://www.marineeast.com/a_sch/sch_lst.asp?cid=1 available from Defender and other vendors. But as to the question of bilge pump outlets, I posted in another thread -- The ISAF Offshore Special Regulations forbid connecting your bilge pump outlets t...

catamount

FWIW, the ISAF Offshore Special Regulations forbid connecting your bilge pump outlet to your cockpit drains -- the bilge pumps require their own outlet. This probably doesn't really apply to your boat in your application, but it is something to think about.

catamount

Don Casey's Good Old Boat book has some info on thermoforming of acrylic plastic

catamount

I had contacted Teleflex tech support about some parts for my Morse Control Levers, and they said that they don't sell parts directly -- that I should work with West Marine or other retailer who could do a special order. With the Morse part numbers from the link above, you might be able to arrange s...

catamount

1) I looked carefully at the PSS Shaft Seal. There sure are a lot of modern boat builders who seem to be installing these as standard in their new boats. But... I've heard a few horror stories about catastrophic failures of the bellows; and reading the installation and care instructions, they sure d...

catamount

Tim wrote:Why not ask the locals what specific primer product they're talking about, and see what they say. I'm guessing they don't really have an answer.

Or maybe they'll say "epoxy barrier coat"

(which is different from WEST how?)

catamount

Success! Finally, I have separated the coupler from the end of my prop shaft! It took some doing; let me explain. Before: http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyhawk/Year2/DeckStrip/ShaftCoupler.jpg After: http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyhawk/2007-02/MissingShaft.jpg Ultimately, I need to re-attach/...

catamount

And no need to make it removable -- let the G10 backing plate become one with the hull

catamount

My curiousity is aroused as to just what are the appropriate uses for 5200. About the only place I can really see using it is in the keel-to-hull joint! (Oh, and for sail repairs) But I'm open to suggestions... Regards, Good question! I only use it to mount stuff to bulkheads I don't want to put a ...

catamount

Regarding supplied air respirators, if it's just dust you're worried about (vs. organic vapors), take a look at the offerings from Airware America: http://www.airwareamerica.com/i

catamount

Use "code" to embed the long url in a link with short "anchor text" like this: Pearson Invicta Mark II [url=http://www.yachtworld.com/core/listing/boatFullDetails.jsp?boat_id=1659997]Pearson Invicta Mark II[/url] Also, with yacthworld links, you can usually delete everything afte...

catamount

After having cursed many a PO for bedding thruhulls and seacocks in 5200 as I tried to remove them to replace, I would implore anyone not to do this. The strength of 5200 here is overkill if the seacocks are installed correctly. 101 works just as well for this application. Not only is 5200 very dif...

catamount

If you have any wires foamed in the mast now, maybe you could use them to pull other, new wires through the foam -- a lot of yanking, with a back-and-forth sawing motion? ...The PO did have a very thin pull line through the mast to the masthead, but I think very little thought was actually put into...

catamount

...someone made the determination to drill holes in the mast and fill it with great stuff (or some other expandable foam). It definitely quieted down things however they also removed the masthead VHF antenna, which is now impossible to replace, and now I have a bad wire running to my masthead light...

catamount

I used battens of scrap lumber ripped to width (e.g. strapping) to secure the tarp to my rafters with screws. A lot more secure than tie-downs. Something to think about, anyhow.

Regards,

catamount

Make sure you get the 2QM15 parts manual, too; it is invaluable!

The 1992 must be for your transmission/reduction gear. There should be a similar name plate on the engine itself -- on the other side between the fuel lift pump and the oil dipstick.

Regards,

Tim A.

catamount

I built a "tent" somewhat similar to what you are proposing. The process was detailed here: http://sailing.thorpeallen.net/Greyhawk/Year2/Tent/ On mine the spacing is 30", but I've got snow loads to worry about. Still 4' seems like a lot. I've anchored it to the ground with stakes on ...

Plastic Classic Forum

Search found 378 matches

April/May Update (Part 1)

Re: Wet Core in a Northern Clime

Autopsy Report

Re: Does My Boat Qualify???

Re: Blooper / Cruising Spinnaker

Re: Mast Wedge

Wet Core in a Northern Clime

Prop Shaft Saga