Plastic Classic Forum

Homer

I agree wholeheartedly with Tim. Yankee has a full batten, loose-footed mainsail that is easy to adjust, always has a most pleasing shape, and reefs quite easily. I added (detachable) lazy jacks to round up the sail when it is dropped. I cannot imagine a better setup. Not having a track is all the b...

Homer

Hi David, Sorry for the delay. I remain unclear about some of the history of the H38. The boat is “Design No. 1965” by “Sparkman & Stephens, Inc.” for “H.R. Hinckley & Co.” (I have a set of plans). The boat was apparently built on commission from the New York Yacht Club with a brief to produ...

Homer

I am well into the restoration of a Hinckley and Tim's "What the boat wants, the boat gets" cuts to the chase. I had a thorough survey from one of the best in the business, and he turned up only a couple of minor details. It is clear that he had no idea about what the boat wanted. If you f...

Homer

Sailing the BVI with the Moorings is certainly relaxing. And sometimes a bit offbeat. Have fun. Take pictures.

Homer

Agreed. If the coatings are nicely attached, just prep and recoat, particularly as you have no blisters. Blisters can be tricky, though. You must make your first observations immediately upon hauling as those under a coating may not be apparent after drying out. If you are still bent on figuring out...

Homer

In the areas of bilge that I recently rebuilt I used epoxy with white tint. This would be a ridiculous exercise in the back of a cabinet, but down in the netherworld, it is bombproof.

Homer

Yep, found the problem the second time around thanks to your suggestions for a closer look. I had missed the bump on the inside just aft (to the left) of the internal drain. Tapping defines the perimeter of what is visible in the photo - same size as the external bump. I guess I will enter from this...

Homer

Thanks for the thoughts. I will get back over to the boat the end of the week to take an interior photo. A repair of some sort will be necessary before painting the topsides. I expect drilling a small hole to investigate is the way to go - perhaps from the inside. I cannot imagine any cheap-o repair...

Homer

I just attempted to take better photos. No luck. I put a larger original and a seriously darkened/contrasted one here: http://www.utdallas.edu/~mont/Yankee/ This bump showed up following Hurricane Ike. Yankee was slammed around a lot although the surface of the bump shows no particular abrasion. Any...

Homer

I would welcome advice from this august forum on a repair with which I have no experience. A protrusion (about 70 sq in) developed on Yankee's topsides a couple of feet down from the rail sometime after slamming into a piling during Hurricane Ike. I assume it is due to impact, but cannot be certain....

Homer

I am going all synthetic. With all of the wire off and composite chainplates in the works, now is a great time to make the jump. Bob, I would like to know more about your wood/composite mast.

Homer

I agree that gloss can be overwhelming. In my case, I have a satin teak and holly sole and satin mahogany everything else. Without a gloss white overhead, the boat is a dungeon.

Homer

I must agree that Brightsides is great in lockers and such. I used gloss RustOleum in the squeaky clean bilge and it is holding up very well. The bright white makes a past dark place most friendly when hunting for a nut that bounced in.

Homer

Old chainplates can certainly be a worry. Even worse, chain plates that cannot be inspected at all are a time bomb. My 41-year-old boat had them replaced at some unknown point with a strange and rather massive fiberglass-encapsulated, stainless steel structure. The whole lot will be carefully sawed ...

Homer

My hat is off to you. Yes, indeed.

Homer

I cannot even imagine working (or existing) in those temperatures. Amazing stuff. I will be filling in the holes from old Corinthian instruments this weekend. In short pants. It should be mid-sixties, dry, and partly cloudy in Galveston. Margaritas in the cockpit at four.

Homer

Well said, Tim. I suppose that I can look with a little more favor at my handholds (whenever it is that they go back up) than I was at my lifelines.

Homer

I love the cap rail mount - so nicely up and out of the way. Given my thin Hinckley toe rail, though, a removable dovetail base might be the ticket. I don't think that would be too hard to fabricate. Thanks for the idea. Beautiful boat, by the way.

Homer

You make some good points, David. Grudgingly, I expect mine will go back up in a few months after we have enjoyed the sleek look for a while, but I still won't much trust them. I also have not found the Morris detachable hardware.

Homer

Interesting topic. As I am slowly stripping everything off the deck to prepare for painting, I cannot help but admire my (S&S-designed) beauty in her unadorned state. I don't think lifelines will go back up for a while. My justification is warmer, nearshore waters, a decent toe rail, and a stand...

Homer

Triton106 wrote:My apologies to Tim, it is "What the boat WANTS, the boat gets."

Great. Thanks. Now I have this mantra stuck in my head. This is clearly the road to ruin.

Homer

I put in a Rule shower sump. It uses little power and the bilge is completely dry (and there are no musty smells). Works great.

Homer

One Way David - yes, that is what was left of the mast. So many things occur in hurricanes that I had not thought of. For instance, my doubled 5/8" premium dock lines turned rock hard apparently from the heat generated by friction of the fibers. I broke them off with a big hammer and chisel. Th...

Homer

Well, thank you.

Homer

What a thrill Ike was. I have still not gotten over it. The attached photo is of the slip next to mine (my boat is to the left). The Beneteau is on top of an Ericson. His mast broke off and fell on my bow. A storm surge of about 12 feet put the floating docks near the top of the reinforced concrete ...

Homer

I am envious of those of you who can pull an engine in 3-4 hours. Removing my 40-year-old 4-107 took me two full days.

Homer

Is that 2,000 rpm? In Galveston Bay, encrustations of barnacles, tube worms, and even oysters can render a prop almost useless. Spinning it as fast as you can has limited propulsive effect. Powerboats here cannot even get up on a plane. I don't know if this is the case on the NE coast, though.

Homer

I had similar cracking leading into the scuppers on my Hinckley. My surveyor assured me that it was over-thick gelcoat. Being a trusting sort, I drilled a couple of holes to check. That is all it was

Homer

Interesting to hear of other success veneering. It is really useful and the results can be spectacular. Perhaps have a go at something less obvious than a bulkhead for the first try. I am going to do the panel on the front of my icebox with ribbon mahogany once a few other pressing jobs are complete...

Homer

Perhaps this is not the most efficient way to go about it, but one way to produce a stunning panel is to scarf marine ply with epoxy and cut it exactly to size. Then veneer with book-matched teak. Book-matching assures that the edges you join will have the same grain patterns. You can produce whatev...

Homer

A sloop next to me in the yard last May was stripped by a man and his son who own a commercial soda-blasting rig on its own trailer. They completely tented the hull and made a terrific racket for a full day. When they untented and rolled up all the blastings, the hull was beautifully clean with abso...

Homer

My goal was not to soundproof but to merely make the saloon quieter, which was easily achieved. The lead/foam prevented the sole from acting like what I would describe as a drum. Sound proof would have required all sorts of difficult engineering including venting and such. That was way out of the qu...

Homer

After repowering last year I lined the underside of the teak and holly sole (which is above the new Volvo Penta in the bilge) with 1 1/2" Sound-Stop panel from Defender. The stuff is multi-layered and is rather heavy. It goes in easily and really does a good job of both sound and thermal insula...

Homer

Gotta agree with Tim. That thing is pretty ratty looking. Buy a new one with a "sail" handle.

Homer

Rachel,

I shall. Thanks.

Homer

I had to remove an old Teleflex throttle when repowering last year. Same problem with the handle. Remove the set screw, push in the neutral button and do your best to fill the joint with something like PB Blaster's penetrating catalyst. It worked and no violence was required.

Plastic Classic Forum

Search found 36 matches

Re: Loose Footed VS. Attached foot sail

Re: Restoring an older boat

Re: Restoring an older boat

Re: Aruba

Re: No Gelcoat?

Re: Bilge Paint

Re: Protrusion on topsides

Re: Protrusion on topsides

Re: Protrusion on topsides

Protrusion on topsides

Re: Synthetic rigging?

Re: What do I use for interior paint?

Re: What do I use for interior paint?

Re: 68 Renegade #147 chain plates & bolts

Re: -10 degrees and glassing

Re: -10 degrees and glassing

Re: Lifelines

Re: Lifelines

Re: Lifelines

Re: Lifelines

Re: Anchor Locker Drainage

Re: Anchor Locker Drainage

Re: Hurricane Ike and sailboats

Re: A4 sticking valves, haulout

Re: Hurricane Ike and sailboats

Re: A4 sticking valves, haulout

Re: Me and my Volvo, again

Re: How bad is this?

Re: Joining Plywood

Re: Joining Plywood

Re: ANOTHER QUESTION ON SODA BLASTING

Re: Sound proofing the engine room.

Re: Sound proofing the engine room.

Re: Disassembly advice

Re: Disassembly advice

Re: Disassembly advice