Plastic Classic Forum

Are you sure you want to pour foam around it and eliminate all access? Imagine running aground and somehow torquing the rudder/shaft and causing a leak. Might be good to be able to at least get down there and patch the tube you've built.

On my Islander 32, as an alternative to having the anchor rhode locker drain into the bilge, I'm considering sealing the bottom of the locker and putting in a drain through the hull at the bottom of the locker so that it drains overboard. Have others done this? I've seen it on modern boats, that had...

George, your contributions so far are very much in line with the purpose of this discussion. The more you're willing to share of your experience, the better. And the more detail the better, as far as I'm concerned. In Re. your previous post: You say creating "slicks" is helpful. Pardon my ...

Damn! I was hoping I had a volunteer guinea pig for burlap method. Oh well, we'll see how ambitious I am when I get around to doing my decks.

If you're re-doing all the non-skid and have large areas to cover, the MAS patterns could be a pretty pricey option at $50/sq.ft. (On the video, the rep said they sell 4x8 sheets - thats $1600!) The factory nonskid on some boats I've seen looks like it was made using some kind of coarse woven fabric...

I was listing my reasons for sticking with my old wood spar in increasing order of importance. I could (and probably should) have left that one out. :)

God save us from Good Old Boat magazine. Hmmm, okay. I'm not a subscriber, I just grabbed a freebie at the boat show. I have noticed in the past their articles tended to be over-simple. I certainly respect the knowledge and opinions of some of the folks here more. But I do suspect Ted Brewer knows ...

I'll certainly give it a more thorough inspection, but initially the only rot I've found is what you see in the pictures, and those areas should be easily fixed. The first step is to remove ALL the paint, but at this point, there's not much paint left on it. From the halyard sheeves to the base of t...

Rachel wrote:Neat-o! That has a great erector-set quality to it.

R.

One of my favorite toys as a kid! Hopefully, when I get the boat all back together it won't reflect that erector-set quality.

Believe me, I've thought about aluminum. I could probably put a hinged step on it, and be able to raise and lower it easily w/ two strong guys. But A) a lighter mast would reduce the sea-kindliness B) with all the wood and bronze on the boat (including a varnished boom) I don't think aluminum would ...

After hunting around for local marinas to pull my mast and repeatedly being told that they didn't have a crane, I decided to take matters into my own hands. I couldn't simply do it by hand as it is too big and heavy (wood box beam). So I built a tower on the boat to lift it off. http://lh4.ggpht.com...

Most certainly, I'd guess. I'm a newbie here myself, and received a warm welcome when I introduced myself and my '65 Islander 32. If my boat qualifies, I'd imagine yours would, also. BTW, your boat and mine share a pedigree of sorts. Here's one version of the story: http://www.columbia-yachts.com/is...

I've got a wooden mast roughly 34' high. I'm guessing it weighs substantially more than a comparable aluminum mast. The step is a 2" high metal sleeve that the base of the mast slides into. No hinges. I'm thinking I'll need a 4 legged "tower". I'm considering building two A frames tal...

I've uploaded a few pics here: http://picasaweb.google.com/thugdrummer/Islander32# Last Saturday was not a good day for boat work. I arrived at the boat late, and was tired from the drive, and obviously not thinking clearly. I was using a roto-zip tool to cut out the sole. Unfortunately, I got too c...

Not sure how I stumbled across this forum, but I'm glad I did. There's apparently wealth of knowledge and experience to be found here, and I'll be trying to soak a lot of it up as I proceed in renovating my Islander 32. She's a McGlasson/Wayfarer design with pretty much the original configuration an...