Plastic Classic Forum

Brian,
Congratulations and welcome. My, newish, boat is in New Rochelle too so let me know if there are any logistical issues you need help with.

Wow. I thought Tim had summed it up.... until I read Zach's response! Byron I raced thistles too, and you’ve given Vince some good advice- get a small boat to learn on. Vince one of the best places to learn is at a Sailing Club, there’s always people looking for crew and there’s always a class in se...

Thanks Charlie. I'm going with your suggestion. I have a coat of west system down and two coats of varnish so that should be enough UV protection for the epoxy . I'll put the wood back on the boat for the remainder of the season and sand her flat over the next winter. That should give the varnish pl...

Pete- What brand/type of waterproof wood glue did you use? How long ago did you do the work and how has it held up?

Thanks Allen, I think I've seen that tool before somewhere. Once you've ripped the wrinkles out, do you just feather in the surrounding varnish?

Thanks Balance I was hoping someone would say that.

I'm going to have to wait until the wrinkles dry out which might take a while (it's been a week already) I might just use the pieces the way they are and sand flat this winter.

Help. Sorry to start another varnish thread but I'm a little stuck. Tried searching and didn't get what I needed (I'm sure super search Rachel could find the answer!) I decided to apply west system before varnishing with Epifanes (old wood needed filling and sealing) I did three identical pieces and...

I would agree with the heat and/or wetsanding. It's very difficult not to sand through the gelcoat, so one trick is to use a sanding block and to tape off the surrounding gelcoat with ductape. The ductape can absorb a lot of abuse. When the epoxy is almost level remove ductape and go to a finer grit.

I have the same hard buoy chain thrpugh the middle setup. The boat is still on the hard so I have no experience with it yet. Having read many of the criticisms that others have listed, I plan to run the mooring line through one of those brightly colored "pool noodles". Hopefully the floati...

Come on spill the beans. Where did you get it? harbor freight?

If you use Styrofoam be sure to encapsulate it. Nothing is worse than seeing those little white balls fouling up the shoreline

I have a similar problem on my interior cabin hand rails (I think they're mahogany). The top has bleached from the sun the bottom is a whole lot darker.

Has anyone tried a stain to even things out?

I'll second the Ipe recommendation. Looks very siilar but much cheaper than teak. It's a bear to work with though, you need to have sharp tools and be prepared to tap out the holes before you screw anything in. Some have reported dificulty in glueing too. I use biscuits at the joints and west epoxy ...

You guys are awesome. There’s so much experience on this list! It’s comforting to start a project without having to go through trial and error. "varnish does not flex as well as the sealant, so things do not stay Bristol looking forever” Quetzal that’s exactly why I wanted to use epoxy under th...

Nice website Acoustic. You've totally inspired me. I was going to use polysulphide caulk but I decided to order some of that grey butyl tape from McMaster. I've removed my windows which are very different to your ports. Do you recommend the butyl between the glass and the frame as well as between th...

OK my boat has a beatiful original teak sliding hatch: http://lh4.ggpht.com/mr.stevesachs/SCNELLCUITI/AAAAAAAAAMI/ExzXFJ-mhuY/s144/Hatch.JPG The problem is that there's a few leaks coming through the hatch, between the joints of the 4 or 5-inch wide teak strips. My plan to fix this, is to route out ...

OK I did some more digging today. There's definitely two types of bedding material under the keel. The stuff I'm pulling out is a rubbery silicony material that was squirted into the big gaps. At the tighter areas there's a crumbly fairing type material. Also on closer inspection I beleive that Tim ...

Rachel thanks this is exactly what I was looking for. So in summary I grind down enough fibregalss to allow for three layers of 1708 material. The "dish" diameter should be about 6-inches. The first cloth diameter is about 5 or so inches. What size circles did you make the next two layers?...

Rachel, The bedding material came out fairly easily. I used one of those curved painter's scrapers to drag along the joint. Once I got a raised edge I pulled and the stuff just started to come out. I have no idea what product it is. It's white and strong but there was water inside the joint and who ...

Thanks team you've eased my mind- slightly. The boat is built like a tank so I'm sure the keel bolts are well over sized. Still I don't think it’s a case of inconsistent fiberglass as Tim has suggested. I could see the threads of one keel bolt through the gap and it just seems so wide. I’ll know mor...

I just took delivery of my Tripp Lentsch 30 "Good Hope" http://steve.o.tripod.com/good_hope/thumbnails/400x300/On_the_sling.JPG Like most of these old girls she needs some work. Top of the list is the old Atomic 4 which is dead. When I purchased her I had thought the ballast was internal/e...

Rachel,
Yes I've seen the Dutch site and I agree not much info I'd be glad to get whatever you have in the way of translated construction pages

Rachel thanks for your resposne. Yes it's a 29! I wasn't thinking straight. I'm very happy with her classic looks and Yes I bought the boat from Joe in March but have only been able to get her out of the water now. Where did you find that picture? I have plenty of photo's and will start a new thread...

Hey gang thought I'd chime in on this thread (this is my first post I've been lurking for a while) I just took delivery of my Tripp Lentsch 30 "Good Hope" http://lh4.ggpht.com/mr.stevesachs/SBjILo9h80I/AAAAAAAAAK0/WgHdHncItw0/On%20the% Like most of these old girls she needs some work. Top ...