Plastic Classic Forum

Idon84

I just wanted to take a minute to say thanks to everyone that has helped me over the past 7 years of my boat rebuild. I know many of you are not here much anymore but I just wanted to show my appreciation for all the great advise and discussions. There is no way I could have done this without you an...

Idon84

My cutlass is held in place with stainless as well. I've used Sapele for just about everything in my rebuild. I haven't had a lot of woodworking experience but it seems to glue well, bends easily and has a DARK red color. Some of my sailor friends say that it is to dark but with Interlux Snow White ...

Idon84

Thanks all for your suggestions. I think the main purpose for the cotton was to build up an area where the beading compound is to be. Thick beading compound doesn't have as much elasticity which is why, I believe, cotton was used to diminish the gaps so a good seal could happen. Thanks again, Bryon

Idon84

Yes, bitts are the vertical posts that allow for dock line ect. to be attached to. They also support the for/aft movement of the bowsprit. They take quite some shock loads I would assume hence my question. Everwhere else in the manual states using bedding compound, but for this specific part they wa...

Idon84

I was reading over my building manual, specificly having to do with sealing up the bitts, and found something that I have a question about. The manual mentions to uses Calking Cotton packed tightly around the bitts under deck level and then using White Silicone to seal at deck level. It also mention...

Idon84

I can't be any help with your question but I can chime in that I am having a similar issue/problem with my new Perko 1.5" Seacocks. I bought Vetus Denouden 1.5" ID water hose for the set up, http://www.fisheriessupply.com/product/Vetus-Denouden-MWHOSE38-COOLING-WATER-HOSE-1-1-2IN-PER-FOOT....

Idon84

Thanks Hirilondë,

Called Interlux help line again and they confirmed that as well. I'm really liking that 800 tech help number.

Cheers,

Idon84

UPDATE: (and another question) So I've been using Interprotect 2000E to my 5th coat thus far. Good stuff, easy to work with, nasty smelling but covers well etc. I did call interlux and the guy I spoke with said 6 months for re-coat without sanding. I read the instructions on the can and just as Hiri...

Idon84

I just wrote a long reply but lost my internet and lost everything so I'll be brief. 1. Parts look to be in good shape other than some pitting, their is no obvious signs of cracks or deep divots. 2. The parts more in contact with seawater seem to be showing more signs of pink & pitting. The pict...

Idon84

How do you know if bronze is still OK to use? I've heard many different opinions both for replacing and keeping. As I look at the replacement cost for all of my bronze parts I question as to wether or not I really need to replace. Here are some pictures of what I'm getting at. The parts below are bo...

Idon84

Thanks for the responses. I guess I'm going to have to do some investigation on some sister ships to see how they are set up. From what I saw of a local sister ship, it did not have any additional means of cooling the bearing besides just sitting in the water so we'll see.

Thanks again,

Idon84

Got a question about lubricating the cutlass bearing. I noticed some manufactures of stuffing boxes add a nipple for water lubrication while others do not. The stuffing box I bought for my install is NOT the type with the nipple for water lubrication. My question is, how important is it to get water...

Idon84

Yes it is. It looks like it is one large rectangular piece of cloth wetted out and rolled around something. There are about 7 layers of cloth in total all one piece. It's quite beefy.

Idon84

Well, after looking around for tubing two things kept coming up. A lot of places wanted me to buy a minimum length of 10' or in some other cases I had to wait quite some time to get a 16" piece (Fisheries Supply in Seattle estimated 3 months!). I called Todd at Cape George Marine works to see i...

Idon84

Love those Dutch boats. Had a friend backpack all around Europe and sent me a bunch of photos of them several years back. His reasoning was because the "looked really strange" and had never seen anythning like that before. P.S. Great post! I used both the 1708(with mat) and the 1700(W/O ma...

Idon84

Thanks!

I think I'll just keep the standard split coupler and not use a taper. I don't have much room and I would think that a double taper would probably be overkill with my 2gm. Also thinking more about that, it would be easier to replace things if something went wrong.

Idon84

What is the advantage to a double taper on a prop shaft? Is there any? The shaft Co. is mentioning this as an upgrade.

Thanks!

Idon84

The prop was on the boat when I bought it so i don't have much info. After a long night of thinking, don't want the headache of having to deal with a non-standard ANYTHING on my boat so I guess I will replace. Norm did mention that with the dimensions I gave him I could easily modify my current prop...

Idon84

Now that I have my stern tube removed I'm off to trying to figure out my prop dimensions for fitting a new shaft. I measured everything in standard but after looking at the weird numbers I was getting I went back and measured to metric to come up with better numbers. The only problem is that the pro...

Idon84

Here is a photo on the stern tube needed.

Idon84

As far as I'm concerned anyone can use it if they just want to pay for shipping & maybe a deposit. It is a really heavy duty saw and cut out my tube in less than 5 minutes. The guys I bought it from said if taken care of should last over 500 holes... So there are 499 left! And YES it is a good f...

Idon84

Finally got the stern tube removed. After a lot of going back and forth on how I would remove this long stern tube I decided to just buy a specialty tool to do that job. Other ideas on removing this may not have worked and would have ended up possibly costing more that the tool itself which was in t...

Idon84

The question of “is it sturdy enough” came to mind a lot. Having the main attached along the entire length would, in my mind, be studier. Greater load on the boom was also a though. I do have rear boom sheeting and didn’t even think about mid boom considerations, thanks ‘Faith’. What about my mid bo...

Idon84

After several quotes on sails from a couple of lofts one thing keeps coming up, the loose footed sail. I have never been on a boat with a loose footed sail so I have zero experence in this area. What are the pros and cons to this? I would think a loose footed sail would be harder to repair if there ...

Idon84

I use Epifanes, and like it a lot. I don't have much experience in the way of use of other Varnishes. Cetol lost my vote a long time ago because of the yellow/orange color which I hear has changed a lot since then. I will say I used 2 part Perfection Varnish on my Thistle when I rebuilt it about 6 y...

Idon84

I don't mind the look of the scarfs, I'm just a little uneasy about them for no reason. The scarfs were coming apart when I bought the boat but it had set for 6 years without any TLC or varnish so it is no surprise that the scarfs were bad. I think I'll just repeat the procedure for the rub rail pay...

Idon84

Thanks Tim! Happy B-Day... lovin watching the motor sailor. What a sweet boat with a TON of character.

Idon84

Hirilondë Wrote: (how in the heck do you get your name in the quote field...?) I think I would have scarfed the pieces together on a pattern of the curve. I used 1/4" plywood cut into 4, 1' X 8' long strip then hot glued together to pick up the rub rail curve on the deck. I mentioned above that...

Idon84

Last year I spiled on my rub rail by scarfing together 3, - 10’ - 8” boards then laying out my pattern on the board and cutting 2 pieces, for each side, with my jig saw. This used a lot of excess material due to curve of the deck. (RubRail pic) RubRail.jpg When I think about scarfing on my Bulwarks ...

Idon84

The specs for the shaft are 43" long. It may be possible to reuse the old one for sure. I'll have to see what can be done after I get the old shaft out. Getting the old one out, I expect, will be enough for my brain right now. It may be possible to reuse the old one for sure. On the other hand,...

Idon84

True Bob, actually thought about that afterwards. I guess it would depend what kind of condition it would be in after I removed it. One thing about this current tube I didn't like was that I can only put about a 2.5" long cutlass bearing into it. I don't know what kind of effect that would have...

Idon84

No forgiving neccessary. The only dumb question is the one that isn't asked and the method you mention would have been much easier. Hopefully someone will read this thread and not do what I did.

Cheers,

Idon84

Actually yes that would be the best method if you were smart enough in the beginning to realize it. Me however, not so much so. I bought the pre made engine pan from the manuafacturer and installed it according to their factory specs. I kicked the idea around of just building the mounts myself but o...

Idon84

After more study, I think I have this all figured out. I'll just have to figure out what works best for my situation... off to cutting!

Idon84

BTW... It's amazing how my anxiety goes away when I commit to a course of action even if I didn't like the thought of having to do the job anyway. So thanks all for the clear course to take. As a matter of fact, lining up the shaft by having the engine fixed and rebonding a tube puts me at ease even...

Idon84

Those are the GRP tubes I'm thinking of. These go just throught the dead wood portion? The version I saw at Cape George Cutters was a long tube that had about 5" on one end larger to accept the cutlass bearing. I guess I'm a bit confused as to the anatomy of this part. I know it is a simple thi...

Idon84

Thanks all. Not surprised at the suggestion and was fully prepared for it. Tim I have reveiwed your blogs on removal of the shaft and think I could do it. The depth is 16", pretty long. Now the next question. Where does one find a good shaft log? Cape George has some that are made from what loo...

Idon84

Hello all, I have an engine-mounting question that I need some help with. Last weekend I finally got around to doing some eyeballing of my engine to the prop shaft alignment. I installed the old shaft and cutlass bearing then placed the engine on the new beds I installed(an engine pan from Cape Geor...

Idon84

The only thing I built without a drain to the bildge is my anchor locker for the same reasons Curmudgeon mentioned.

Idon84

It is defiantly fastener time and I can see how the cost will really add up. I guess when building I need to keep that in mind. Also for most things I can use SS so the cost is a little bit more manageable.

Thanks again for the input!

Idon84

Thanks guys, Just wanted to be sure. SS would look horrid so I guess I'll be spending about $80 for fasteners. Originally they were attached using #18 2" bronze screws that only went into the boomkin. Obviously I would like to bolt through the deck so I'll have to shell out the funds. So that b...

Idon84

I've been working on installing some new 10" bronze cleats and am in need of a 5/16 flathead bronze machine screw at about 4.5" (Going through 2.5" mahogany boomkin, 1" deck & 1/2" backing plate.) The best price I have found is a little over $11ea from Jamestown Dist.. B...

Idon84

Just got my 10" Bronze cleats from Spartan today. SOLID, I wish I could say the same for some of the other bronze cleats I have.

Idon84

Thanks all. I went to the boat festival a few years back and was a lot of fun. I will give Todd at Cape George Cutter's a call to see what he thinks. I guess I was just hoping someone from Plastic Classics had some recommendations. I trust info here WAY more than anywhere else. Dan's idea about gett...

Idon84

I have a 20" long bronze log so I would like to keep it all similar if at all possible. SS is not out, I'm just looking at options.

I've used online metals so I guess it's just a matter of getting the machining done with some rod. Now where to get the machining done?

Bryon

Idon84

Does anyone have shop recommendations for a shaft replacement here in the NW? I would prefer bronze if possible.

Thanks,

Idon84

Great. I was hoping to hear that. The mast is solid where the bolts go through but other areas are hollow. The dark spots you see look WAY worse in the photos than they are on the actual mast. I did double check them last night with a sharp point but the wood is still in fine condition. Agree tho th...

Idon84

I've been talking with several people on what, if anything, I should do to the attachment points for through bolted hardware on my wooden mast. Just about all of them said I should "sleeve" the holes with stainless tubing. The holes for all the attachments are 1/2" and 3/8". See ...

Idon84

SWEET! Excellent work!

Idon84

That reminds me of my favorite photo.

Parks Bay, Shaw Island, WA 6/2007

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