Plastic Classic Forum

It's a shame that this boat has ended up in its current state. I received an email when it arrived there in the boat yard and was then lucky enough to get a couple of things off of it for our 65 Flyer (not the missing sink and toilet). From what I've heard, it does sound like a real project boat but...

Hi there Falcon, I would suggest asking the guys/girls over at the Cheoy Lee Assoc members website. there are a lot of people out there with the same set up on their FF's and have had to replace/repair this over the years. That being said, I cant wait to see pictures of the inside pf your boat these...

Hi there Wayne, Theres no metalwork in that photo of me grinding, thats me grinding the head of off of one of those lag bolts holding the Chainplate in the "tube". Your descrpition of your chainplates was the 3rd option I was considering. The real problem with that set up is of course gett...

I'm not replacing any knees. The ones that are there already (to tie in/support the cabin house to the hull) are staying as is. I copied them in size and shape to hang the chainplates on in the same spot they used to be when they were layed up in the hull. It seeems the load will be spread ou over a...

I'm placing these knees in the reinforced slots/channels left behind from cuting out the old chainplates. They were originaly layed up in the inside of the hull in long tubes. This system seemed have worked well for the first 26 years the boat was active. There isnt any noticable flexing around this...

I'm glad you cleared that up for me. Looking at the West System "Fiberglass Boat Repair and Maintainence" Booklet it shows using the largest piece down first then succcessivley smaller pieces after that. But in other places such as "This Old Boat" by Casey and "From a Bare H...

Thanks for the great response. I decided to use the big two inch thick knees for th middle two chainplates and the other four will be on 1 inch knees attached to bulkheads. Their all cut to butt up against the underside of the deck and cabin house. Should be plenty strong and they look good too. Whe...

The short story is that I always loved the look of these boats and was fortunate enough to be given one for free last winter. I'm slowly trying to bring it back to life. I started taking pictures of the progress to use as reference and then posted them on the internet to share with friends and famil...

This is a dead thread. I spoke with a number of folks about what to do re this issue and ended up sealing the ballast in with high strength concrete and tried to make every effort to get it deep down inside the hull to fill all the voids. Another CL owner made a great suggestion re filling other voi...

Having them on the outside is a salty look for sure but what about all the through hull holes that it takes to attach the chainplates? About four holes per each of the six chainplates so thats 24 holes instead of six if they were on knees. No concerns about leaks through the hull, not even when heel...

I'm still in a place where I could easily place them outside as well. It would only be a matter of moving two inches as well. Whats strongest? What is preferred?

5'8" in the main area and only 4'7' up in the front of the doghouse. I'm 6'4" and its pretty tight in there.

I am in the process of cutting knees for the chainplates in my 65 Frisco Flyer. Originally they were layed up in the hull and I removed them because they were 42 years old and showing some signs of corrosion. The plan now is to put them on knees as I have seen on other small boats. I was wondering h...

What about a polymer resin that is used to bond old concrete to new concrete and that reportedly repairs failed, crumbly concrete into stronger than new condition? Its resistant to water intrusion, freeze/thaw cycles, still really heavy as it uses the same aggregate as concrete. Solid but may flex r...

Hi again. I thought I would check in and give a brief update. Initially, I had thought, (from what information I could find on Cheoy Lee Flyers), that the ballast was a mixture of loose iron and concrete. I had planned to remove this weigh it and replace. After I removed the concrete from the bilge,...

I just called a few scrap metal yeards. Lead here in NH is 40 cents a pound. Which they said is high. I could melt it down (or have someone else do it ) into managable chunks. Glass in a fair amount of them and set the rest on top. Then after launching, move them around for the best trim and finally...

I think it has likley cracked in places and that why I've noticed what appears to be water "weeping" out in places. Not quite a trickle but just moist. Re the fuel smell, the tank may have been in a different spot years ago but now is in a locker in the cockpit area out side of the boat wi...

Thanks. I have sure my work cut out for me and will be posting pictures of the progress. I'll borrow a few jack stands from friends as their boats get in the water to make sure this thing is steady as a rock just in case there is any signifigant pounding/movements etc... It'll be great to see the co...

Thanks for the suggestions re the stands. They seem to be really secure and have withstood some steady 40mph winds not too long ago. I had planned on adding some boards under all of them to avoid any shifts. I'll also make sure they line up with the bulkheads if they dont already. So, with all these...

Unfortunately, no dragons on this one. Those seem like the first thing to go on these older ones. I'm looking everywhere for a replacement. More stands will carry the weight better? Doesnt seem like there will be too much banging, more like scooping out crumbled wet cement. Theres lots of pictures o...

This is a better one....

http://bp0.blogger.com/_Z7sHwRUOHfE/Rj3 ... 0028-1.JPG

Heres a picture of the boat. Sorry, its not a great one, I took it with a camera phone. There is alot of cement to take out but I would feel much better knowing what was down there. This boat has sat on the hard for (16 years) with water getting in with every storm and who knows how long it would ta...

I now have new question.... The cement is crumbling apart more than I had previously thought and seems to be very wet deeper down. The boat was not protected well for a very long time and I am sure water has been sitting in it for years. I was going to let it dry out as best I could then pour new ce...

Thanks for the advice. I wasnt sure if there was a type of rustoleum product that could cease any possible ongoing rusting. There has been water intrusion I'm sure, but there isnt any noticable damage from it so far. As far as covering it, I had also thought that I could over it with glass. Thanks a...

Hi there, I have a 25' 1965 Frisco Flyer whose ballast (2,240Lbs of cast iron topped off with concrete) is partially exposed and needs to be repaired and resealed. The concrete in places has become loose and I intend on removing it, wieghing it and replacing it. The next step presumable then will be...